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2000 chevy silverado, remote start

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=71289
Printed Date: May 11, 2024 at 1:06 PM


Topic: 2000 chevy silverado, remote start

Posted By: splaudio
Subject: 2000 chevy silverado, remote start
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 4:40 PM

i was sent here by Murphy from SD.

i installed a ultra 1250 starter with doorlocks today. the bypass module for the passlock 2 was a omega dbpass23.

the truck will start then half a sec later shut off. i can start with the key then press remote start and pull the key out and keep it running. the bypass mod says it programed by flashing 4 times but still isnt working.  this is the first passlock 2 i have done, mostly ford and dodge around here. 

i wired it as says 12+,ground when running,ground,violet to violet on data bus. i just dont know why it is shutting down? the factory disarm is hooked up and tach wire is good. the same thing happens if i pull the fuse from the bypass,because it isnt doing anything. thanx for help in advance...SPLaudio,Corey




Replies:

Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 5:40 PM
do you have it to a 12+ while cranking. if the voltage drops at crank it will not work. make sure you have a constant at all times.

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JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 5:51 PM
Your Passlock resistance isn't correct or the module isn't programmed properly. Make sure that if there's a program jumper that it is in the proper position and also, check to see that your GOWR wire is indeed putting out a (-) signal when cranking.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 5:59 PM

yea some replys!  i have the 12v to 12+all the time. i tried to ground the bypass instead of the ground while running and still no good(just to test). there is 3 switches on the bypass 1&2 stay down(off) 3 goes up(on) while programming then after goes down(off).

i cant figure it out...





Posted By: fingaz22
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 6:21 PM
if you have good power than like velocity motors said you should be looking at the resistance in the paslock

-------------
JUST ONE MORE AMP!!!
hu,alpine cva 1005/dva 5205
sound processor,symmetry(first one).
sub amp,power 1000 the terminator.(1992).
subs,spl comp dual 1 ohms.
punch 150hd on a 10" ev.
alotofhighs




Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 6:46 PM
that is the problem i am having getting the bypass to work. i need help!




Posted By: dskemaite
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 8:23 PM
use a 555L module from DEI easy way

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eddddddddddddiiiiiiiiiieeeeeeeeeeeee




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 22, 2006 at 9:40 PM
Question, when you get a no start attempt on the truck does the Passlock system kick in ? If not, then you might have a tacvh issue instead because if you get failed starts due to the omega dbpass23 , this will trigger the Passlock into long tamper mode and kick you out for 15 minutes until the system resets itself with the ignition on.

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 5:36 AM

when i remote start the security light goes to a red battery then when it shuts it off it flashes the security. i should be getting a good tach signal the antenna lights stayed on when i programed it stating it was good. if it dosnt find a good tach signal it operates tachless but, getting a good signal.

the only thing i am wondering is the dbpass23, have you ever installed one. i installed with switch 1&2 off and 3 on for programing. once it flashes programed shut switch 3 off. it dosent say but do i turn switch 1&2 on?...Corey





Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 7:43 AM
I'm not familiar with the omega dbpass23 bypass, sorry. But from the sounds of it it's not the Passlock that is your problem because if you get failed attempts with the RS, you should go into long tamper mode meaning you will not be able to start the truck even with the key.

What tach wire are you attached to and where ?

-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 3:03 PM

i pulled the fuse on the bypass module and it dose the same with it hooked up or not.

i have the tach wire hooked to the ECM pin 10, white wire. it was located in the top right hand plug. it says red plug but there isnt any red plugs everyone is gray. i hooked it up tachless before i tried running the tach same thing happened.

the truck ignition powers up the security light goes to red battery it cranks for.5 sec enough to pop then the security light starts flashing again...Corey





Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: January 23, 2006 at 3:49 PM

i just called omega and my bad i had the 3 switches backwards. in the diagram it is hard to tell what is switch and what is not. it is hard doing starters on the weekends with no tech support to call, and i only do starters on weekends.  so all i should have to do is pull the fuse program it then start. i will let you know how it comes out. even though i ordered a 555L this morning.

i atemped to remote start it several time and had no problem starting it with a key after. it never locked me out? 

thank you guys for all ur help i greatly appreciate it...Corey





Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: January 26, 2006 at 12:26 AM
SO did you fix it?

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Steve G




Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: January 26, 2006 at 12:52 AM
for future reference there is a plastic box right in front of the hood hindge on the drivers side. If you pull the bracket off covering that box then remove the box, on the side closest to the drivers firewall there is a small group of wires with green tape around them, there is a white wire in there that is tach. This saves you trying to count pins and the trouble of identifying which grey plug is the red oneposted_image

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer





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