94 chevy s10 remote start/keyless

Hello All i am a newbie to remote starter installs and this forum. i have read some of the post and have picked up some great info.

I purchase a Valet 561R, i would like to install it myself on my 94 chevy s-10. (I have been doing autobody for 13 years so i do have some knowlage as far a cars goes).

Here is what i have connected so far

from remote starter   2 12V high current output   to 2 12V constant power on the ignit harness...  voilet starter wire to purple wire on ign harness.... Orange acces wire to orange wire in igni harness( there was 2 orange wires on the truck.. i cut 1st one and the heater blower wouldn't work so i assume that is the correct wire.. it worked before). then i connected he pink starter wire to the pink wire on the igni harness   I try the remote and get nothing.  aslo connect the break shutdown and the lights.  IS my problem the nutral safty switch or is it more than that.

I also have a question on the keyless entry.. but i will start a new thread for that.

Thanks for any help

first off i strongly recommend testing everything you plan on tying into with a digital multi-meter. now then. yes the neutral safety switch. the thin gauge back/white wire on  the brain needs to see ground to remote start. have you hooked up the tach yet or changed it to voltage sense? as for your locks:

https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w

5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks

94 chevy s10 pickup.. Valet 561r remote starter

FOund  and cut both the lock wire and unlock wire.

Relay 1--- 85 to 12v constant---- 86 to lock output from remote starter-----87 to 12v constant-----87a to door lock wire ground switch---30 to door lock wire to motor

Relay 2--- 85 to 12v constant----86 to unlock output from remote starter----87 to 12v constant-----87a to unlock wire going to door switch----30 to unlick wire going to motor.

When i hit the button on the remote i can hear a click in the relays but the doors dont lock or unlock. Anyone have any idea where i went wrong. Relays are down by the kick panel..

Wire like below or serious damage to Switch may occur
Be sure you are using SPDT Relays ( Single Pole Double Throw ):

2 SPDT RELAYS:

Cut LOCK  & UNLOCK Wire in Half.
One Half goes to SWITCH
One Half goes to ACTUATOR

Relay 1

LOCK:
PIN 87 =  12 Volts ( + ) Constant
PIN 87a =  wire from Door Lock Switch
PIN 30 =  wire to Actuator
PIN 85 = Negative Lock Output from Alarm
PIN 86 = Constant 12 volt ( + )

Relay 2

UNLOCK:
PIN 87 =  12 Volts ( + ) Constant
PIN 87a =  wire from Door UnLock Switch
PIN 30 =  wire to Actuator
PIN 85 = Negative UnLock Output from Alarm
PIN 86 = Constant 12 volt ( + )

Ihave not hooked up the Tach yet.. how do i change it to voltage sense..

another-kelly wrote:

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first off i strongly recommend testing everything you plan on tying into with a digital multi-meter. now then. yes the neutral safety switch. the thin gauge back/white wire on  the brain needs to see ground to remote start. have you hooked up the tach yet or changed it to voltage sense? as for your locks:

https://www.the12volt.com/doorlocks/page3.asp#5w

5 Wire Alternating 12 Volts Positive Door Locks

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