95 Camaro alarm/RS
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=71688
Printed Date: August 17, 2025 at 1:00 PM
Topic: 95 Camaro alarm/RS
Posted By: 93whitesol
Subject: 95 Camaro alarm/RS
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 4:41 PM
I'm trying to install a hornet 564T (DEI) remote start/alarm into my 95 camaro, and I'm having trouble connecting the door locks. The RS has 2 wires for the door locks (one is -lock/+unlock the other -unlock/+lock) These 2 wires give me a postive reading from a test light when I hit lock or unlc**k from the remote, but once I connect these to the correct wires in the car I no longer get any positive output from them when I hit the buttons on the remote. What does this mean, and what am I doing wrong? I've tried to go straight to the master switch at the passenger door, but I still get no output from the RS when those wires are connected.
Replies:
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 4:49 PM
You will need to use Relays if your unit does not do 5 wire Reversal | Power Lock | LIGHT BLUE | **DRIVER KICK TEST FROM | | Power Unlock | DARK BLUE | PANEL PASSENGER SWITCH! |
** If Equipped With OEM Keyless Entry: Lock- RED / BLACK, Unlock- ORANGE / BLACK At Keyless Entry Module In Passenger Kick Panel. Passenger Switch Is Primary Switch!! Reversal Rest At Ground Door Locks ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: mike swanson
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 4:50 PM
Door Lock: Light Blue- Driver's Kick Panel (Reverse Polarity) You need relays
Door Unlock Black Passenger's Switch is Master Switch
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 4:53 PM
so should I be using this diagram here?
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 5:18 PM
yes......test from pass door
-------------
MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 5:27 PM
thanks for all the quick answers.....just a few more questions....This all applies even though the car had a factory keyless entry?
and is that diagram correct?
one relay has 85 to 12v 86 to alarm unlock
the other has 86 to 12v 85 to alarm lock
I've seen another diagram somewhere which shows both 85 to 12v and both 86 to the alarm
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 5:42 PM
93whitesol wrote:
This all applies even though the car had a factory keyless entry? and is that diagram correct?
yes to both...........
Be sure you use SPDT Realys.....( Single Pole Double Throw ) ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 6:40 PM
Im still a little confused because I dont have a single wire going from the switch to the motor. I have the wires from the switch going into what I believe is a power door lock module or something like that, and there's wires coming out of there going to the motors. So how do I hook up wires 86&30 and 85&30 (the leads going to the switch/motor)?
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 6:42 PM
I meant to ask about 87a&30 in the above post which are the leads going to the switch/wire
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 8:21 PM
Do NOT Reverse wires on PIN 30 & 87a. You can damage Switch This is 5 wire Reversal:
2 SPDT RELAYS: Cut LOCK & UNLOCK Wires in Half.
One Half goes to SWITCH ( when you push Lock Switch, it will show 12 Volts....)
One Half goes to ACTUATOR Relay 1 LOCK:
PIN 87 = 12 Volts ( + ) Constant
PIN 87a = wire from Door Lock Switch
PIN 30 = wire to Actuator
PIN 85 = Negative Lock Output from Alarm
PIN 86 = Constant 12 volt ( + ) Relay 2 UNLOCK:
PIN 87 = 12 Volts ( + ) Constant
PIN 87a = wire from Door UnLock Switch
PIN 30 = wire to Actuator
PIN 86 = Negative UnLock Output from Alarm
PIN 85 = Constant 12 volt ( + ) ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 8:31 PM
You say the car had factory keyless. Then you don't have to 5 wire the door locks. | Power Lock | LIGHT BLUE | **DRIVER KICK TEST FROM | | Power Unlock | DARK BLUE | PANEL PASSENGER SWITCH! |
** If Equipped With OEM Keyless Entry: Lock- RED / BLACK, Unlock- ORANGE / BLACK At Keyless Entry Module In Passenger Kick Panel. Passenger Switch Is Primary Switch!! Reversal Rest At Ground Door Locks Read the note you can use the RED / black (lock) and ORANGE / black (unlock) wires at the keyless module for the locks. Why do more work than you have to. ------------- Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 8:42 PM
5 Wire Reverse Polarity regardless of the color or with / without Factory Keyless ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 9:29 PM
Thanks for all the help...I got them working. Yes you do have to use the RED / bk and ORANGE / bk...but you still need to use the relays....and there is no single wire from switch to actuator to cut. There is a wire from the switch that goes into the PDL module, then a wire that comes out and goes to the actuator....took a lil while to make sure I had the correct wires but its working perfectly!!!
THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP!
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: January 28, 2006 at 9:38 PM
93whitesol wrote:
Thanks for all the help...I got them working. Yes you do have to use the RED / bk and ORANGE / bk...but you still need to use the relays....and there is no single wire from switch to actuator to cut. There is a wire from the switch that goes into the PDL module, then a wire that comes out and goes to the actuator....took a lil while to make sure I had the correct wires but its working perfectly!!!
THANKS AGAIN FOR ALL THE HELP!
Sorry miss interpretted the note thought the - by them meant negative. My bad. ------------- Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: January 31, 2006 at 8:43 PM
I've got everything connected correctly, but now I'm blowing a fuse! I'm blowing the 15amp courtesy fuse, which is the line I taped for power to the door lock relays, but I'm not blowing the 30amp inline fuse I have going to the relays. I've checked all my connections and they are solid and covered. Am I just drawing too much power? Should I just try getting 12v from a diff source?
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 31, 2006 at 9:05 PM
Wires on PIN 87a & PIN 30 may be reversed Also, if you are using Relays......Be sure they are SPDT ( Single Pole Double Throw ) Relays............... ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: January 31, 2006 at 9:25 PM
I'm pretty sure I have the relay's wired correctly. I can get the door locks to work...more than just once. In fact I thought I had everything working correctly, I tested everything numerous times, and it all worked. Then later that night when my girlfriend left in that car she called me and said she heard a pop and the radio/domelights/doorlocks(only keyless entry) all don't work.
So is it possible I have the relays wired wrong and/or the wrong relays even though I've gotten the keyless entry to lock and unlock the doors?
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: January 31, 2006 at 10:18 PM
If you are using the Dome Lite Power for Door Locks also, I would start there.
You should use another Power Source, like the Door Lock Power wire or run a designated Power source
-------------
MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: February 01, 2006 at 5:00 AM
Ok....well I pulled the power from an orang(ish) wire from under the dash near the power door lock module thing. which is apparently seperate from the power going to the power door lock switch. But whats still confusing me is why isn't the inline fuse at the relays blowing along with the factory fuse? Is it just b/c the factory fuse is only 15 amps and the inline is 30amps? and am I correct in using a 30 amp inline for the relays?
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: February 01, 2006 at 8:08 AM
Yes.... the 15 amp fuse would go before the 30, but you need to find the problem first. Is it because you have a short? or overloading the circuit??
Your Door Locks ( by themselves ) should only require a 20 amp fuse.
-------------
MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: February 01, 2006 at 2:50 PM
thats what I'm trying to decide. I don't think there is a short anywhere...as I have rechecked all my connections and they are solid and covered. So Im assuming I am just overloading that particular circuit. you say the door locks require a 20 amp fuse?....and I'm taking power for the relays from a line which uses a 15 amp fuse....so I guess this means Im overloading the circuit? And since the door locks require only a 20 amp fuse should I change out the 30amp I have inline for the relays and use a 20amp?
Posted By: 93whitesol
Date Posted: February 02, 2006 at 3:54 AM
I cant figure this out for the life of me. Now I'm thinking to just go straight to the battery for power to the relays, and then if there is still a problem (ie short in my wiring) I'll just pop the 30amp inline fuse? (still not sure if I should change this to 20amp?) I'm hoping if I go to the battery I won't be popping fuses anymore which will confirm my theory that it just too much of a draw on the current circuit....anyone see any flaws in my plan here?
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