2006 Scion xB alarm
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=71879
Printed Date: May 08, 2024 at 7:23 AM
Topic: 2006 Scion xB alarm
Posted By: cjastacio
Subject: 2006 Scion xB alarm
Date Posted: January 30, 2006 at 10:49 PM
Can someone please give me a wiring diagram for the 2006 Scion xB. I found for the 2005 but I am not sure if it the same. I am also looking for interconnect harnesses so that I can simply plug alarm wiring into the car without soldering any wiring on the car. I have looked all over the net for this but with no luck. If anyone could tell me where I could possibly find interconnect harnesses I would be in your debt. Otherwise the wiring diagram will do.
Replies:
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: January 31, 2006 at 7:08 AM
It's exactly the same as an 05.....
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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 05, 2006 at 9:46 PM
Hello all! I just finished studying the installation instructions for my Crime Guard 533i4 and I would like a little bit of clarification for my car's wire systems. Now, bear with me because a couple of these questions may have obvious answers but I just want to verify before I start splicing into my factory wiring. First off, after studying the wiring diaram, that I found on this site, I am assuming that the door trigger is a negative door trigger. Is this a correct assumption? Also, regarding the door lock system, I am assuming that my xB has a 3 wire negative system. Is this also a correct assumption? My last question is regarding the door locking mechanism. I really want to keep the driver's side priority unlock. Out of the factory my xB has a keyless entry system with driver's priority unlock. Do I have to worry about extra hardware to keep this function with my new alarm or is this function still kept with installation of the new alarm? I assume that the driver's side priority unlock will still be available with the new alarm installed since the vehicle is wired with this function on the factory keyless entry. Is this also a correct assumption?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 06, 2006 at 12:38 AM
Yes, all three assumptions are correct.
--The door trigger wire will test as a ground when the door is open. Be sure to try at least two different doors----you want the all-door wire; not just the driver's doorpin.
--Yes, to trigger the doorlocks, all you need are the negative outputs from the alarm; no extra relays would be required.
--The correct doorlock wires will test as a ground when you turn the key in the driver's door.
(There are two more wires that test as ground while operating the rocker switch on the door panel; don't use those.)
When the unlock wire receives one pulse from your alarm, only the driver's door will unlock. If it receive's a second pulse soon afterward, the passenger doors will unlock.
If your alarm has separate outputs for first-unlock and second-unlock, connect them BOTH to the car's unlock wire.
If your alarm has only one unlock output, just hook it up. If you press the alarm's unlock button repeatedly, you should be able to get all the doors to unlock on the second press.
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 06, 2006 at 1:43 AM
I am planning on installing a window roll up module with my alarm. I want it to roll up the windows when the alarm is armed. So I know that I have to attach it to my negative output when armed wire. This wire is also used for the starter kill. I was told taht I should put a diode on each wire. The wire for the window roll up module and the wire for the starter kill. On each diode I was told to have the cathode face the alarm. Is this even necessary considering that each wire, starter kill and window roll up, are essentially sensor wires waiting for a negative feed? I can't see any situation in which there would be a back feed to the alarm brain from either wire. Please elaborate if this is true. Also another quick question. Is it ok to splice the constant 12v wire for the window module to the alarm constant 12v? Thank you.
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 12:06 AM
Does anyone have an answer for me? I am planning in the install this weekend so a reply soon would be much appreciated.
Posted By: redpeppers
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 12:15 AM
u only need one dioade......negitive side towards the alarm.
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Where theres is a wire there's a way.
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 1:12 AM
If both of the devices read 12V on their inputs when in standby (you can measure it with a DMM), then you probably can do without the diode, but if for instance the window rollup module shows 5V while the relay shows 12V, adding a diode to the window rollup module side would prevent the 12V from the relay from getting to the window module. Also might be a voltage spike from the relay when it shuts off, which may or may not bother the window module.
Most likely the window module input would be designed to handle 12V, but it's only a few cents for the diode, so you may as well add it in for the extra protection. You won't need the diode for the starter kill relay, just the window module.
The window module probably draws very little current, so you should be able to connect to the alarm power input line. Only possible drawback might be if there were some problem with the module and it overdraws the circuit, which could blow the alarm fuse and disable it- but that's unlikely enough that I wouldn't worry about it.
Posted By: turbo6
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 3:33 AM
The starter kill relay has a negative feedback that's why a diode is needed. Stripe side of the diode (1 amp) faces to the alarm starter-kill wire and the oppisite end to the window up trigger wire. You NEVER should share the same power connection with the alarm system. Power window modules or power window motors draws over 20-25 amps of current so the supplied 18g wire that is supplying power to the alarm system is not enough to power the windows. 12v at the battey is the idea way.
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 16, 2006 at 11:30 PM
Ok, another question... After studying and matching wires from my alarm and my car's wiring diagram I noticed something. The ignition and the starter wires are the same color on the same harness for the xB. Are they the same wire? If so where do I attach the ignition input for my alarm and where do I attach the starter kill?
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 18, 2006 at 11:36 PM
Anyone? Please?? I am planning on starting the install on Monday. Thanks in advance for the help.
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: February 18, 2006 at 11:50 PM
No they are not the same wire you will have to test the 2, and that will determine which one is the starter and which one is the ignition.
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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 18, 2006 at 11:57 PM
So then, one I use for the starter interrupt relay, the one that tests positive only when I turn the key to start the car. The other wire, I'm assuming the ignition wire, will be used as the ignition input for my alarm?
Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: February 19, 2006 at 12:07 AM
yup. Starter only has power during crank. Ignition has power in on and during crank.
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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 19, 2006 at 12:19 AM
Thanks cntrylvr79 much appreciated!
Posted By: godblessdremil
Date Posted: February 19, 2006 at 8:53 PM
Oh and quick tip, don't use a test light buy a cheap DMM instead.
Posted By: tbone587
Date Posted: February 19, 2006 at 9:21 PM
Just a quick tip for u. From what I remember from putting my alarm in, the black starter wire is a thing guage wire and the black ignition is thick. Check that out and test the thin one and it should be the starter
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 19, 2006 at 10:53 PM
Thanks guys! I got the DMM covered already. I was wondering if there are any physical characteristics to distinguish the wires. What kind of a genius puts two wires for different functions as the same color in the same plug? Somehow I would expect better out of Toyota:) But shouldn't the starter be the thiker guage wire since it is supposed to be a high amperage circuit? Were there any other difficulties you encountered from your, tbone587, install that I should avoid?
Posted By: godblessdremil
Date Posted: February 20, 2006 at 12:06 AM
Not all the time. And there are not necessarly more amps moving through. Some cars don't even have a starter wire any more.
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 7:16 PM
Just a quick follow up on my install. I finally finished, the most difficult thing was running all of the wires. There was also one minor difference. My alarm allows for programming a double pulse output which was great because according to the wiring diagram I found on this site that feature was needed. When I installed the alarm I actually found out that a single pulse for unlock was just fine, in fact if I left a double pulse it would unlock all of the doors. The other shortcut I found was regarding the negative door trigger. According to the diagram the negative door trigger was in an awqward spot to reach. So I followed it and found that the same wire, same color too, runs along a bundle of wiring in the driver side kick panel. It was much easier to solder at that point!
Posted By: cjastacio
Date Posted: February 21, 2006 at 10:11 PM
I just finished installing a Crimeguard 533i4 on my 2006 Scion xB and noticed a problem after testing. I am able to arm the alarm, even with one of the doors open. Usually the alarm is supposed to tell me when a zone is bypassed to arm, and it does that with the pin switch I installed for the hood but not with the doors. The alarm does sound when I close one of the doors when armed. The alarm will also not start the auto rearm countdown with one of the doors open, this is normal. But I can't understand why it will arm without alerting me of having to bypass the doors. I did notice during the install that when any door is open the voltage does not go to exactly zero, only between one and zero. Can anyone tell me how to fix this????
Posted By: tbone587
Date Posted: February 23, 2006 at 8:59 AM
If you tested the door trigger wire and it starts off at 12volt when the door is closed and goes to 0 when its opened you have the right wire. If it doesnt, u got the wrong wire. I know on my car I did get the door trigger from the akward spot in the fuse box. It was easy for me to get it, because at the time I had my entire upper dash off and I could easily get the wire. A tip I could probably give you is unplug the harness with the door trigger wire in the fuse box, and u will probably be able to access it easier. You can also pull off the fuse box cover and make it even easier
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