viper 791 shuts engine while driving
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=71979
Printed Date: May 03, 2024 at 6:45 PM
Topic: viper 791 shuts engine while driving
Posted By: wowbw7
Subject: viper 791 shuts engine while driving
Date Posted: February 01, 2006 at 2:33 PM
Viper 791xv installed in a 97 S10 Blazer about a year ago. have remote start, door lock and rear hatch release functions hooked up. no shock sensor installed. all functions have worked until just recently. while driving, door locks cycle on & off once or twice then engine dies. this happens while driving! put tranny in neutral, and engine will only start with remote...not key. also door lock feature works, but not unlock or rear hatch release. any ideas? thanx in advance for any help
Replies:
Posted By: gus1
Date Posted: February 01, 2006 at 2:41 PM
The 791 has only starter kill, not ignition kill.
How can it shut the ignition off and shut down the truck?
Check your negative battery terminal to see if it's loose....
Gus
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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......
Posted By: bazzgazm
Date Posted: February 01, 2006 at 2:55 PM
I agree. Or alternator.
gm's do funny things when the batteries die. I had a remotestart/alarm/keyless in a malibu and when the batt was almost dead i could hit the unlock button and pop the trunk =) stupid peices of mess.
Posted By: kaezoo
Date Posted: February 02, 2006 at 7:17 AM
Sounds like it might be the ignition switch going bad, particularly since you can start with the remote but not the key. Could one of the ignition wires have been pulled loose in the factory harness at the switch?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 02, 2006 at 7:25 AM
I like kaezoo's suggestion---- the Viper probably has the ignition-controlled doorlocks turned on, and if the car's factory ignition wire is going on and off, the locks will cycle.
wowbw, when the engine dies while driving, how about the other features? Climate controls, radio.... do they remain on?
If ONLY the engine dies, but the other stuff remains on, I would guess at the pink wire being intermittent, as kaezoo says.
Perhaps you could temporarily tape four small lights onto the dash?
Connect each one, respectively, to the pink, white, orange, and brown wires in the steering column. Label them so you know which is which.
(Ground the other ends of the bulbs' wires, of course.)
Take the car for a ride, and see if any of the lights go out as you drive along.
Posted By: wowbw7
Date Posted: February 02, 2006 at 10:33 PM
can't get to the car 'til next week, but I sure appreciate the suggestions. I'll check out each one. it's happened twice, during the daytime & the radio wasn't on, so I can't say on the accessories working or not. a question about the loose ignition wire..does this cause the only-starts-with-remote thing? turning the key to start does nothing..thanx again, guys...
Posted By: wiretapper
Date Posted: February 04, 2006 at 3:07 AM
9 yr old S-10 blazer? I suspect a bad ignition switch. If the alarm sees an on/off signal from an internal intermittant ign switch connection where (I presume) the alarm wiring is connected, it will cycle the locks. The "engine dying" thing will also be directly related to a bad switch. It will usually remote start even with a bad switch because the start signal is generated downstream from the switch. Also, it will STILL get the power to start it because the remote start wires (again, I'd assume) are connected to the RED / rd-white wires that feed 12v to the switch. My friend has been using his '94 full size Blazer this way for the past 2 yrs! No start signal from the key, but it remote starts every time. ...some people..... There are many other suspects there too, but eliminate a bad switch first. You'll be ahead of the game that way. Also, you may want to do an OBDII scan on it. '97-up will show an event history that might reveal why the engine dies. Sometimes it doesn't trigger a code, but it will show up in an 'event history' scan. You can also put the scantool on it while driving, set it to 'real time'. If it starts right back up every time, batt and alt are fine. A simple voltmeter test can determine that. You may have to dig further into the BCM, or ECM. The scantool is your friend.
Posted By: Mwsounds
Date Posted: February 04, 2006 at 9:36 PM
Mine did that to me a few times. It turned out my Alarm brain got wet. Make sure your car is not leaking as well.
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Thanks,
Mike Ward
Get it done right the first time!
Posted By: wranglercory
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 11:15 AM
recheck all of your connections and the main ign. harness
Posted By: wowbw7
Date Posted: February 17, 2006 at 2:52 PM
replaced switch harness last week. rewired Viper to new harness. no problems with car stalling since, but Viper still doesn't function. no unlock function, no rear hatch release. blue led flashes constantly, and alarm and lights going off all the time. only thing I have hooked up now is remote start & remote kill. they work fine. is my Viper 'brain' fried?
Posted By: wowbw7
Date Posted: February 26, 2006 at 11:11 AM
Got a new ignition switch harness installed 2 weeks ago & haven't had the engine-kill problem since, but Viper still doesn't work properly. rewired it into new harness, checked all connections, but still 'no go'. is my Viper fried?
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: February 26, 2006 at 11:38 AM
You are doing a ton of work here, is there a dealer close by. If there is just go in and PAY for them to trouble shoot this thing for you. I would just ask them to do a brain swap and see if a new brain works fine. If it does than the brain you have is fried, if it doesnt than you know the problem is in your install.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: February 26, 2006 at 11:44 AM
Is your remote programed properly? Mabye you need to just do an autolearn on your remote. Its possible to program remotes button by Button and miss features. That would make them not work. So try to do the autolearn. Secondly if you continue to want to trouble shoot this yourself, get a multimeter and hook up to the unlock wire on the brain and see if it sends out a negative pulse when you press the button, same for the trunk, make sure you are getting a negative output off the brain. Also for the trunk you relise that the button has to be HELD down for approx 3 - 4 seconds right. Just making sure ------------- double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
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