shaved key hole battery dead, how 2 enter

Hmm, I really like your 9-volt battery idea---never thought of that before.

Only the doorlock key cylinders will be shaved, correct? The handles to actually open the door will still be as factory?

I have two ideas of my own, as well a a suggestion about doing your 9-volt battery thing.

--You could simply install wires from the battery terminals, going to some location under the car, and then use jumper cables from another car to power up the Integra.

If you go to junkyards, take a look at some of the cars that have the battery mounted in a remote location---they nearly always have jump-starting terminals under the hood. Examples: 1998-2004 Intrepid/Concorde/300M; 1996-2000 Stratus/Breeze/Cirrus.

You may be able to take those jump-start terminals right from the junk car, or if not, you'll have an idea how to make your own.

--Have your friend take the time to learn how to open up his car using an automotive lock-out tool. This would be the most reliable method, as even if the car's electronics should fail, he'll still be able to get in.

Does his Integra have frameless windows? If so, opening the car will not be difficult.

--Your 9-volt battery idea is a cool one. Couple of things you might need to know, though, if that's how you plan to go about it.

If you're not aware of how power doorlocks (or relays in general) operate, take a look at the "Relays" section on this site.

Both wires going to the factory actuator "rest" at ground------when you operate the power lock switch, the relay takes away one of the grounds, and puts a positive there instead----that's how the locks work in pretty much every car.

So, if you simply jump a batery onto the two wires going to the actuator, you'll have nothing but a short circuit---and the car will not unlock.

What you would have to do, in this case, is completely disconnect the actuator from the car, and THEN you can apply a battery to the actuator.

So......... to do what you want, here's pretty much how you would do it. If you want to spend a few bucks on connectors, you could do a very neat job.

1. Find the two wires going to the driver's door actuator (actually it could be any one door; doesn't matter).....you can surely find them in the car; no need to go into the door.........anyway, cut them in half.

2. Extend BOTH sides of the wires you cut in half, using extensions long enough to reach outside the car.

(It would be wise to label BOTH ends of each wire, "car side" and "door side.")

Choose a location that the car's owner can get to without any tools, but is somewhat protected from road spray, and hidden from thieves.

3. At the auto parts store, look at all the different accessories for trailer wiring. You'll find a nicely made, weatherproof 2-pin connector. Buy a male/female pair........and also one more; doesn't matter if the third one is male or female.

4. Anyway, back outside the car, you now have two pairs of wires.......those are the ones you extended from inside the car..... one goes to the actuator, one is coming from the car.

Connect those two trailer plugs to the wires, so that you can connect the two pairs......so that the car is basically back to the way it was from the factory, except that you have that plug outside the car.

At this point, the car's power locks should operate normally.

5. Undo the connection, and get that third connector you bought-----it should fit into the "door side" of the plug that you made previously.

Splice that third connector onto a 9-volt battery connector, if you can find one at an electronics store.

Make a temporary connection at first, figure out which way you have to connect it so that the 9-volt UNLOCKS the door, and then make the connection permanent.

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So, all your friend should have to do is, find the hidden connection under the car, unplug it, and plug his 9-volt batter with the adaptor you made, into the "door side" of the plug.

Those trailer plugs are nice in that your friend will find it impossible to incorrectly plug into the "car side," because both plugs are different.

Obviously, if you do this, you will have to take special car about which wire is "car side" and "door side"..... don't get the polarities mixed up.....and make sure you put the correct plug on the correct wire, so your friend will be able to connect his battery to the "door side" of the wire.

If you do any of the above stuff wrong, the worst that'll really happen is you'll blow a fuse or that one doorlock will work backwards........but it's disappointing when you do a nice careful job making connections, and then you have to cut them apart and do it over. Much less stressful if you take a pen and paper and map it out the first time.

Oh, one more thing: First, make sure a 9-volt battery will actually power up the actuator! If that doesn't work, car-alarm-remote batteries are 12 volts; try one of those.

You should install a batt float charger and leave the plug in hanging out the bottom of the car.

(like a diesel)

Then if ya need it plug it in. I would plug it in anyways if i wasnt driving it. That what i do with my T/A that i dont drive alot.
It stays pluged in and the batt is always charged.
I unplug it, start it, & burn the tires all the way down the steet LOL. It works very good plus its good for the batt.

i had my handels and locks shaved on my car and a full system in the trunk so i wasnt able to climb in the car, i had four ways of entry, door poppers which opened the doors, window roll up and down if the poppers failed, a direct wire that went to the poppers that i could apply a 9vlt battery to get inside the car (wire was hidden in the trunk enclosure) had the keyhole still on the trunk, and a hidden wire under the car that had to have 12v to it to activate the popper. Right now my civic has 4 door handles on frot so it doesnt have keyholes on the doors, i still have the trunk keyhole so i can climb through (had to a few times). if the trunk is not an option i would run 2 wires directly off the door actuator into the front fender with a weather proof plug on it, you will be able to pull back the fender liner and access it if you ever had to. using a 9v batt you can apply direct power to it and activate the actuator.

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There are 10 types of people in the world, ones that understand binary and ones that dont.

You know once I was at a gas station. I saw 2 girls with a worried look on their face. The driver was trying to start the car but the battery was dead. It was funny watching them frantically try to get out of the car. Power windows so couldn't roll down the window... Gosh they must have felt really stupid. Couldn't even start the car to get away from the laughing gas station customers.

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Tell the Snap-On guy I'm not here!

when i shave my door handles, i plan on puttin in remote terminals in the bed of my truck. i tech have a wire running to my battery for compressors so i can just tape into that fuse box but id rather be safe. Also look into autolock's shaved handle emergency kit..

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Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10

If there are wires run into the doors through door grommet tubes then you might be able to run a release cable from the latch mechanism to inside the front wheelhousings or from under the car. I have used hatch or trunk release cables out of import vehicles with the handle or knob by the driver's door sill or you can also use bicycle cables but you would have to form your own handle end or pull knob.. If it's a hatchback you could also add a mechanical external release for that also under the rear bumper. For security you need to hide it or else anyone can get in.

Moroso sells solid brass jumper posts that are used on race cars to quickly attach jumper cables to. They also have rubber boots that slide over the posts to make them look nice and have insulator bushings on them to where you can drill a hole in a panel or frame and not have them short out.

Jim

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1968 Chevy II Nova Garage Find 2012
1973 Nova Custom
1974 Spirit of America Nova
1973 Nova Pro-Street