Clifford Rsx 3.5 H3 lights conflict

I installed the security portion of the Clifford Matrix RSX 3.5 into a 2006 Hummer H3. I got the + parking lights from the bcm plug as stated on directwire. The jumper is in the right spot. I tested everything and it was perfect. All door triggers worked, lock and unlock, the lights flashed correctly.

Then I turned the h3 on, it has automatic lights. When the lights turned on the brain kept clicking nonstop and the lights started flashing, but not full flashes because they were going so fast. My remote was unable to communicate with the system, so I turned the lights off and the system worked.

Then I accidentally hit the unlock button on the factory keyless entry, which flashed the lights twice, and the brain started clicking nonstop again and flashing the lights rapidly.

I am positive I have the correct parking lights wire, do I need to diode isolate it? If so is a standard 1a diode sufficent?

What is going on here? Any ideas?

I removed the lights polarity jumper from the brain, the system works fine, but no lights when I arm/unarm. And my 2nd channel/trunk output doesn't work. The brain clicks, but I guess it's not sending the -200ma pulse to the relay it's powering.

Some more info... the trunk output does work when the jumper is removed from the brain.

Everything works fine when the polarity jumper is removed, but it doesn't work when the fuse is removed from the parking lights wire from the brain.

If the parking lights turn on, while the jumper is in the right spot, it makes the brain go crazy, constant clicking, with driving lights flashing really fast, no communication with the remote.

Any help is appreciated. thanks

lost01 wrote:

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Everything works fine when the polarity jumper is removed, but it doesn't work when the fuse is removed from the parking lights wire from the brain.

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If the fuse from the parking light wire is removed you shouldn't be having the problem since it is essentially a 'dead' wire. I'm starting to wonder if you have a wire harness that has some switched wires. Verify that all the wires are in the correct order by comparing it to a harness from another RSX 3.5

Other things to check....
Where did you get constant power for the alarm? Hopefully not the ignition harness. I would use your meter to verify that the constant wire is staying at 12v when the lights flash. Also, verify that your ground wire is staying ground when you turn the parking lights on.

Why don't you want to use the (-) parking light wire in the truck?

And last...what are you using the trunk release/ch 2 output for? The H3 doesn't have a trunk....are you using it for priority unlock?

The wiring harness wires match up to the installation guide wires.

I got +12v constant from the ignition harness, WHITE/ black wire, as listed on DirectWire. Is that bad?

I just hooked up the + parking light because that was the alarms standard config, I didn't expect this problem.

I'm using the trunk release output to trigger a relay that opens my garage door.

I don't have the problem with the clicking and flashing lights when I remove the fuse from the parking lights wire, the system just doesn't work at all.

Ok...I keep going and playing with the system, that's why I have so many different posts here.

Here is the summary of it all..

When jumper is removed from brain (parking lights fuse still installed):
- No flashing lights to confirm arm/unarm (obviously)
- Remote can not communicate with brain only when parking lights are on, suspected that there is no power to brain
- As long as parking lights are off, the security portion of the alarm works just fine

When jumper is installed as positive, standard config (parking lights fuse still installed):
- Brain makes clicking noise when lock/unlock is pressed, but does not lock or unlock (clicking noise not heard when jumper is removed)
- Brain makes clicking noise nonstop with lights flashing dimly and rapidly when parking lights are not on, when the key is turned, and the parking lights come on, the clicking and flashing stop.


So, what exactly does that say to you? What do I have to do to fix this problem? Thanks

The constant wire going to the key is fused at 10 amps. You don't want to tap into it. It would probably work ok if you were using (-) lights because then the alarm would be pulling less current.

(+) parking lights probably draw about 6-8 amps of current.
(-) parking lights draw about .15 amps of current

It sounds like the brain may be grounding thru the parking light circuit. As soon as the lights go positive it loses that ground and the brain freaks out. Where did you ground the alarm brain?

I would take the unit out and return it to the "authorized" dealer you bought it from....

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JWorm - the alarm is grounded to the chassis, with a factory bolt. Would you suggest finding a better +12V constant, or going with (-) parking lights? A better +12v constant would be much easier to get to than the (-) parking lights. Do you happen to know of a good +12v constant other than the one in the ignition harness? Thanks


KarTuneMan - I'm pretty sure it's just a wiring problem, returning it wouldn't solve anything. If I find it is a problem with the brain then I will return it to the authorized dealer I bought it from.

I ran constant to the battery.

You can get (-) parking lights at the switch or at the BCM
BROWN / white switch or BCM, gray plug, pin A7

I REPEAT...WHERE IS YOUR GROUND? There are some underdash brackets that make horrible grounds because they are screwed into plastic. I would try the kick panel area.

Oh sorry, under the plastic piece by the hood and parking brake release, there is a metal piece with 2 bolts close to the door. I grounded to the top bolt there.