door locks, trunk release wiring
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=72421
Printed Date: May 08, 2024 at 7:03 PM
Topic: door locks, trunk release wiring
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Subject: door locks, trunk release wiring
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 10:13 AM
Does this diagram look right?
Diagrame (beware 56k)
Basically what I want to do is put in 4 2-wire door lock actuators and a trunk actuator. The trunk actuator only needs to pull, so therefore I'd ground one side and power the other. The car currently has no power locks or trunk I'm wiring into - I'm adding this all new.
The door lock ones need to switch power and ground depending on whether they're pushing or pulling, so I wired them up with the relays and the diodes. the relay gives ground to one while the other is powered by either the momentary switch being pressed, or the alarm sending signal to the relay.
Does this look right? If so - what kind of diodes do I need to get. If not - what should I change? The diodes are necessary so when I power one side it's not putting 12V into the ground on the other side, right?
Sorry for the crappy picture - I took it with my digital camera of something I drew. I'm going to use the scanner when I get to work and re-upload it.
Replies:
Posted By: Joe Neal
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 10:44 AM
2 SPDT Relays: Relay 1 LOCK:
PIN 87 = 12 Volts ( + ) Constant
PIN 87a = GROUND
PIN 30 = wire to Lock side or Down of Actuators
PIN 85 = Negative Lock Output from Alarm or Switch
PIN 86 = Constant 12 volt ( + ) Relay 2 UNLOCK:
PIN 87 = 12 Volts ( + ) Constant
PIN 87a = GROUND
PIN 30 = wire to Unlock side or Up of Actuators
PIN 85 = Negative UnLock Output from Alarm or Switch
PIN 86 = Constant 12 volt ( + )
Posted By: brcidd
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 10:44 AM
You don't need diodes (or switches) if you use the kits that have the 5-wire actuators- you don't need to mount switches on the door- they are built into the actuator and trigger when you physically move the lock mechanism-by hand or with key-- and the remote still has its own input. or you could have wired your switches (if you insist on having them) to input a ground into the same circuit as your module does- much simpler- and no diodes- .............. ------------- Brcidd - Engineer That Does Remote Starter Installs on the side.
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 10:49 AM
I want the switches to lock/unlock from in the car without having to use the module.
If I wired the switches to grounds for the switches - wouldn't I have to put ground to 87 and 12V to 87a?
-------------
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 11:01 AM
Joe,
Are you saying what I have is right? That's how I have it wired (minus the diodes)
-------------
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.
Posted By: Joe Neal
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 11:20 AM
Wire as I posted
If you are using 2 wire Actuators for all 4 Doors.........
You will be switching + to 1 side of Actuators via 1 Relay while giving Ground to other side of Actuators via the other relay & Visa Versa
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 3:48 PM
As I see it the problem would be when i activate the switch to give + to one side of the relay, I'd be putting + INTO the 30 pin, which if the alarm wasn't activated would be sitting on the 87a input for both, which would be ground.
Wouldn't passing 12V+ into a ground wire (even if it's also going into the actuator) blow my fuse?
I'm starting to think that putting the switches on the alarm lines, and linking them to a ground as well, may be the best way to go.
--Jimmy
-------------
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.
Posted By: Joe Neal
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 4:19 PM
PIN 87a & 30 stand at closed or connected together internally
When Relay is activated PIN 87 & 30 close or are connected.
So when you activate Lock Relay 1, it supplies 12 volt + to PIN 30 which goes to Lock side wire of 2 wire Actuator .... Unlock Relay 2 stays at GROUND which would supply GROUND to GROUND side ( Unlock wire if you will ) wire of 2 ( or second wire ) wire Actuator
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 4:21 PM
If you look at my diagram you'll see the lock/unlock switches over to the left. They do not use the relay are are connected directly between the 30 wire of each relay and the 12V source. Therefore, if neither relay was activated, and one of the switches WAS activated, I'd be putting 12V+ through the relay into ground because the relay would be at rest on 87a.
-------------
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 4:23 PM
Sorry hit post too quickly -
In short - moving the switches to the 85-pin side of the relay will solve my problemo. No diodes required.
-------------
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.
Posted By: Joe Neal
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 4:25 PM
True, that is why I posted the Relay wiring with Negative on switch on PIN 85
You do not want to put voltage thru switch.......
better if you Wire as posted
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 4:44 PM
10-4
Thanks again for the help. I didnt see that in your original post
-------------
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Date Posted: February 08, 2006 at 7:56 PM
Works like a charm. Awsome awsome awsome.
-------------
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.
Posted By: jimmy0x52
Date Posted: February 09, 2006 at 9:28 AM
I'm wiring up some door lock actuators and buttons - but that's kinda beside the point. I have a more general wiring question.
I have 10GA wire with a 60A fuse inline running from the engine compartment to the cab through the firewall. I have some questions about the safety of the connections I used on each end.
1) I connected the engine compartment side to the terminal in the fuse box that the main battery lead goes into. The wiring from the battery to the fuse box is 6GA or 8GA so that's in no danger of frying (because of the 60A fuse beforehand) but I wanted to make sure that connecting it to the bolt in the fuse box was ok? It was just cleaner than clamping it to the end of the battery cable (not to mention easier)
2) On the cab side I wired it to a little 6 blade fuse box that I bought. This had a little screw terminal with a nut and a lock washer. I torqued it down good. I screwed that fuse box underneath the driver's seat into the floor/carpet.
Any dangers in all of this? The screws in the fuse box are surrounded by plastic and the only thing touching the ground/carpet is plastic. Should I have something between the fuse box and the floor?
Basically I'm gonna run the + side of the relays for the door lock actuators to this fuse box with 10A fuse for the actuators. This leaves me some room to expand with other power options or LED's or whatever.
Thanks!
--Jimmy
-------------
2003 Dodge Neon SE
K&N + CAI
Power locks, trunk and some LEDs soon.
Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: February 09, 2006 at 9:38 AM
jimmy0x52 wrote:
. I screwed that fuse box underneath the driver's seat into the floor/carpet.
Any dangers in all of this? The screws in the fuse box are surrounded by plastic and the only thing touching the ground/carpet is plastic. Should I have something between the fuse box and the floor?Jimmy
I would have mounted under Dash. Run wires from there.
Mounting under a moveable seat on Carpet is asking for trouble.
Stuff always ends up under seat, carpets get wet or damp, etc. ------------- MO
Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.
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