Need Help.. About to give up on Remote Start...

I am just about to give up on installing the remote start on a 2000 Nissan Altima.  I have the entire Alarm (Viper 790XV) wire and working including the door locks, remote trunk and all zones.  The Remote Start is all connected including the Immobilizer 555U from DEI which I placed a full key in.  When I hit the Remote Start buttons, all accessories start up and I can hear the Fuel Pump start.  But it wont crank.

I verified that my Start Wire for the Remote Start is on the Starter side of the wire and not the Ignition kill side.  The ignition kill works when the alarm is triggered so I know I have the right starter wire.

There are siz wires on the Ignition harness.  I tested all of them using a Voltmeter to verify which ones are the accessories, ignition and starter.  Just to let you know, this is my definition of each just in case I am wrong:

Accessory - 12 Volts when the key is in the accessory position and no volts when cranking.
Ignition - 12 volts in Accessory and during ignition.
Starter - 12 volts only when cranking.
Constant - 12 volts all the time.

Here are the wires I found:

WHITE/ Red - Constant
BLACK/ Red - Ignition
BLACK / YELLOW - Starter #1
BLACK/ Blue - Starter #2
BLACK/ Pink - Accessory #1
BLACK/ Blue - Accessory #2 (Radio Power)

I connected all of them except for Accessory #2.  No Luck, so I even connected the second accessory, no luck. 

When the Remote Start Sequence occured, I checked for voltage on the starter wire and it was fine for both wires.

Fine, all the connections are ok so I thought it was the Immobilizer.  The Security light was flashing.  Then when the Remote Start engages, the Security light stops flashing meaning it found the key from the 555U bypass.  Just to make sure, I put my second key into the ignition and put it into the Run Position.  Still Remote Start wont work.

I am out of options.. Any help would be greatly appreciated. 

PS - I checked the Wiring from the install bay on this site and it says that the BLACK/ Blue wire is the second ignition.  I checked the wire, that is the wire that turns on the radio.  I verified this by applying 12 volts to the wire and the radio turned on so I think that wire is wrong on the list.

Also, one more thing.  There is seperate 3 wire plug for this alarm that has the following options:

Diesel Wait to Start Input - Not a desel car so didnt connect.
Factory Disarm output - I am not arming the car with the factory remote so didnt connect this either.
Channel 4 Output - Extra Output for accessory - Didnt connect.

Since I am not arming the car with the Factory Alarm, I didnt connec the Factory Disarm wire.  Do I need to connect this?  The manaul says that this wire pulses the Factory Disarm wire when Remote Starting and Unarming the car.  

Do I need this?

Thanks.

i came accross a similar problem where the starter wouldn't crank either, then i hooked the factory security system disarm wire...and voilá...it worked. the security system has a starter kill, so if you arm/disarm the alarm but not the security system in the car, the starter would not engage.  

hope this helps you out.

• make sure that your hood pin switch is not seeing ground
• make sure that you are not in manual transmission mode

Ok, thanks for the info.  But I am having a problem finding the Disarm wire.  I checked three different documents and they all say the Disarm wire is GREEN/ YELLOW.  I looked on the SECU (Smart Enterence Control Unit) and this wire is non existant.  Can anybody help me idnetify the location to this wire or how I would test to see if the wire I have is the correct wire using a voltmeter.  Thanks.

Patel

Ok, now here is what I found out.  I dont have the Factory Theft Option in my car.  I only have the NATS (Immobilizer) and the Keyless Entry.  There are two Smart Control Units.  The one with the Factory Theft has the GREEN/ YELLOW wire.  The main plug has 39 pins.  The one without the Factory Theft does not have the GREEN/ YELLOW Wire and is only 26 pins.  I have shown both diagrams for the units below.  Pin 31 on the view with the Theft is the wire that your talking about.  What do I do now, I dont have that issue.  What else could be wrong?

With Theft - Dont have this.

Without - This is what I have

Your chasing a ghost wire.... look elsewhere for your solution to the problem. If the ignition wires power up and all functions turn on when they are supposed to, make sure you are RS the proper way. You mentioned that the starter wire on the RS unit outputs 12 volts when remote starting, right ? Make sure that both starter wires are getting this 12 volts and relay isolate each starater wire from each other incase of possible feedback. Make sure that the hood pin switch is not seeing a ground and also make sure that hte TACH wire is properly programmed for the vehicle. YOu do have a 6 cylinder or is it the 4 cylinder ?

Did you ground the BLACK/ white wire on the small six pin plug ( i think it is a six might be 7 or 8 )?  It is for a nuetral safety switch and without seeing a ground it won't crank.  Also you do need to isolate and power both starter wires. Also the spare key you are using was programmed to the car and would start it correct?  It  also prob wouldn't start when testing and you have your key in the ignition and using the 555u at the same time, the car would see two signals and wouldn't work either. 

Ok, I finally got my Factory Service Manual in from Nissan.  Now I am more confused than ever.  Can somebody look at this image.  Each picture shows the different wires energized when the ignition is turned.

1 - White / Blue is the Accessory Wire - Also this shows that there are two accessory wires.
2 - Black / Red - Shows as Ignition.  (Says I1).  Powered in both Ingition and Starting position.
3 - Black / Pink - Shows second Ignition - But this ignition is only powered in the Ignition Position and not in Start. 
      Black / Yellow and Black / Blue are Starter wires.
4 - Shows Black / Yellow starter wire going to the PNP Relay.  I checked the voltage at Pin 7 when the key is used and in the Ignition position, I get 12 Volts.  Then I tried with the Remote Start, no 12 volts. 

My problem still lies with that Start Wire not getting power.  Is there anything in between the Starter wire from the Ignition and the Relay for the Parking and Neutral Ground Check?

Finally, I got it to work.  The whole time, it was a bad relay. I never bothered to check the voltage on the Starter wire after the relay which I used to supply power to two Starter wires.  I just removed the Relay and connected both Starter wires to the single source. The second Starter wire is thin and doesnt carry a huge load.

All works now.  I want to thank everyone for thier help.

Patel