Pre-Arm/Defrost CA545/425 ’05 GMC Envoy
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=72499
Printed Date: May 01, 2025 at 6:08 PM
Topic: Pre-Arm/Defrost CA545/425 ’05 GMC Envoy
Posted By: darius26
Subject: Pre-Arm/Defrost CA545/425 ’05 GMC Envoy
Date Posted: February 09, 2006 at 10:15 AM
I had CodeAlarm CA-545/CA-425 Installed on my 2005 GMC Envoy. To bypass the PassLock a unit called GMDL-BP was installed in addition. Now CA-545 with the CA-425 master console, are supposed to support pre-arm mode - when a door or light is On, the unit beeps once and arms once all the doors are closed or 4 minutes have gone by. It doesn't do it for me. It automatically arms ! Can anyone tell me how to make this work ? Wiring ? Programming ? In addition, CA-545/425 also has the Defrost feature. This also does not work. Is there a programming/wiring to be done ? Can the problem also be the GMDL-BP bypass module ? Any suggestions ? Thanks
Replies:
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: February 09, 2006 at 2:36 PM
I have yet to install that unit but I have a few on hand. It seems that some of the features need to be programmed with an RF programmer according to the master module install instructions. I have been unable to locate one thus far. Those units were made by Audiovox for Code-alarm and I'm pretty sure it was mainly a Circuit City piece. They have since stopped carrying them and went back to thier DEI line but I've been seeing that Ebay is flooded with them. I was kind of concerned about whether or not all the features could be used without the RF programmer. It appears that maybe you are having that problem.
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Steve G
Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: February 09, 2006 at 7:04 PM
I have installed a few of these systems and no, you do not the RF prgrammer at all. It is just a quick way for dealers to program this thing. Everything the unit is capable of is accessable through normal transmitter programming. If your system is not going into pre-arm, it's one of two things. Your door trigger is not hooked up, or it is wired improperly. To test it, lock your doors with the Code Alarm remote, unlock your door with the key and open it...no alarm sounding=no door trigger or dome light monitoring. Your defrost will not work unless your R/S was hooked into your defrost system. Ask your installer if it was hooked up. Most people will probably charge extra for something like that. Also, you may want to turn shock sensor off...they have been known for false alarms.
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Keith
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 09, 2006 at 11:09 PM
Is the car's domelight disabled with the switch on the dash, or does it come on when the door is open?
Also, triggering the defroster would be an optional feature requiring extra labor.
Posted By: darius26
Date Posted: February 10, 2006 at 6:47 AM
Thanks for your reply. I will try out the suggestions and ask my dealer about the other wiring questions. I was under the impression that the GMDL-BP bypass kit eliminated the need for further wiring, like all is plug-and-play. Tells you how much I know. The dome light does come on when any of the doors are opened.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 10, 2006 at 7:02 AM
The GMDLBP is a nice piece. But it does not plug directly into the alarm system.
The installer would connect the following wires, with whatever sort of splices he chooses, to the alarm/remote starter: lock, unlock, panic, remote-start-on, and the alarm's door-trigger input.
The piece of course needs power and ground as well.
It also connects to the car's domelight wire.
And then, finally, there is just one wire that is connected to the car's computer-----this is how the unit "tells" the car to lock or unlock, panic, or disable Passlock to enable remote-start.....it also monitors the car's databus (computer) for the door-open signal.
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To simplifiy, this is how the door-trigger works:
1. The GMCLBP monitors the car's databus for the "door-open" signal from the two FRONT doors, as well as the tailgate. If it sees any of these door(s) open, it puts out a ground on its "door-trigger-output" wire, which SHOULD be connected to the alarm system.
2. The REAR doors are not tied into the car's databus, because they do not have computer modules inside them. Instead, the GMDLBP "watches" for the domelight to come on.....if it sees the domelight, it does the same as what's listed above----puts out a ground on its "door-trigger-output" wire, triggering the alarm.
Alternately........the installer may have chosen not to use this feature of the GMDLBP, instead connecting the alarm DIRECTLY to the car's domelight. In this instance, you MUST leave the domelight enabled for the alarm to be triggered.
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Instead of listening for the chirps while arming with a door open..........try this to be sure.
1. Open a window.
2. Close the car doors, set the alarm, and leave it alone for 30 seconds or so-----at least long enough for the delayed domelight to go out.
3. Reach in through the open window, unlock the door by hand, and open it---- as if you were "breaking in."
Does the alarm sound when you do that? If not, take it back to the installer and have him correct the problem.
Posted By: darius26
Date Posted: February 16, 2006 at 4:56 PM
well the alarm was triggered when I unlocked and opened the door without disarming. So I guess that wiring is correct. Is there somewhere I need to program ? The Envoy itself ? The Bypass kit ? the CodeAlarm ? so that the Pre-Arm mode takes effect ? Will programming the Code Alarm for Passive Arming be different ? I believe it's programmed for Active arming, which I was told means I have to press the lock button on the remote. The Passive Arming, again I was told meant that if I close the door, it arms after a period of time ... Does that make sense ?
Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: February 16, 2006 at 6:19 PM
If your door triggers the alarm, it is hooked up properly. Unless it's factory security that is sounding. It was not mentioned whether the truck has a factory alarm. If this is is case, your Code unit may not be monitoring doors. Passive or active arming should not be any different regarding pre-arm. Are you sure you are not getting pre-arm? When you press lock with open door does horn/siren chirp once or twice? ------------- Keith
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 17, 2006 at 7:29 PM
So you want to close the door, and then thirty seconds later, the alarm arms and the doors lock?
That's fairly easy, alhtough you do need the install manual (not the owner's manual) to know what the procedure is.
It will involve opening the door, probably cycling the ignition, tapping the valet switch (part of the LED), and hitting buttons on the remote.
You want to select "passive arming" on, which makes the alarm arm by itself.......separately, select "passive locks" on, if you ALSO want it to lock the doors when it passively arms.
In my experience, passive locks are a good way to lock babies in cars, or lock yourself out when you're getting gas...........you might consider passive arm, but active locks.
Also, if you don't want to program it yourself, or you don't think you're up to it, or if you don't have the manual.......I don't see why the shop wouldn't be willing to run out to the parking lot and do it for you.
Posted By: darius26
Date Posted: February 20, 2006 at 11:49 AM
The vehicle did not have factory alarm. It's the CodeAlarm that sounds when trigerred. Thanks for your response. Yeah I understand the passive lock. My bro's locked himself out ! I know without the alarm system, the vehicle could be programmed that when the driver door is open and you hit the lock button, it chimes 3 times . Once all the doors are closed it then locks. Thanks again.
Posted By: darius26
Date Posted: March 02, 2006 at 7:11 AM
It seems as though the delay lock should work. When I press the lock from the remote, it only chirps once. According to the manual, that is what it should do but not lock all the doors. Then once it activates two chirps will be heard. This is the normal amount of chirps had all the doors been closed initially. So now I'm lost. Also, should the dashboard lights flash on when you press the unlock ? Thanks
Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: March 02, 2006 at 3:11 PM
It sounds like your system is functioning properly. If the door is open and you press lock, the doors will lock, the alarm goes into pre-arm, the parking lights flash once, and the horn/siren will chirp once. If you then close the door, the horn/siren will sound again and the lights will flash again and the system will arm. Your dash lights flash because your alarm is turning your parking light on and off. You said it chirps once when you lock it with door open, so there's your pre arm right there. You didn't say whether you got the second chirp or not when you closed the door. I think there is some confusion here as to what you're expecting out of the pre arm. It sounds to me that you think the doors shouldn't lock when one is open. This is incorrect, after all, you are pressing the lock button. Hope this straightens it out for you.
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Keith
Posted By: darius26
Date Posted: March 10, 2006 at 8:43 AM
kohara, my problem is that the pre-arm doesn't work. although I hear one chirp with a door open it arms and the doors lock. when i close the open door the alarm is triggered instead of just arming and hearing a chirp and the lights flash. Not sure if it's related, but should my console (dashboard lights) flash on unlock ? thanks again.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: March 10, 2006 at 4:39 PM
Okay, let's see. I just installed the same system in one of my cars, so I remember now how it works.
--If the door is open, and you press "Lock" on the Code Alarm transmitter, the doors WILL lock, you'll get one chirp, and one parking light flash. So far, sounds like your unit is working right.
--After the last door is closed, the alarm SHOULD give you a second chirp; it is now armed.
(NOTE: Since we don't know what the installer used for a door trigger----the output from the GMCLBP? Or the domelight?----you might have to wait for the delayed domelight to go off, before hearing that second chirp.
BUT, you say that closing the door instead causes the alarm to sound at full volume?
I'm guessing that the door is being closed hard enough to trip the shock sensor.
Those units are shipped with the shock sensor at maximum sensitivity----if the installer forgot to turn it down, which is entirely likely, closing the door will probably be enough to set the alarm off.
Do it all over again-----that is, open the door, press lock, close door, the alarm goes off-----disarm it, but DON'T start the engine yet-----count how many times the LED is flashing------refer to the owner's manual, and you can learn which "zone" of the alarm was violated.
--If it's the shock sensor, that's normal; you might want to turn it down a bit, though.
--If it is the door-trigger zone that went off, that's not normal; have the installer fix it.
--About your other two questions:
1. When you say dashboard lights, you mean the background illumniation, correct? Not the warning lights like the check-engine or seatbelt.
The background illumination will come on anytime the parking lights are on, whether the car is running or not.
Any time that the alarm chooses to activate or flash the parking lights, the dash will illuminate as well; that's normal.
2. I'm aware of the GM feature you describe, where locking the door while open gives you a chime, and then the doors actually lock shortly after they're closed.
All of the databus doorlock modules I've seen do NOT do that; they lock the doors regardless of them being open or closed.
NOTE: The factory GM remotes do the same thing. The doorlock module surely just puts out the same data signal that hitting the factory remote would, so it's likely there's nothing that can be done about it.
Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: March 11, 2006 at 10:37 AM
What Chris said sounds right. Even if you arm the system with the doors and hood and trunk open, the shock sensor will still be active. That's probably setting off the alarm. When you lock the doors with a door open, does your LED flash once per second, or 3 flashes-pause-3 flashes. If it flashes 3 times then pauses and so on, it is in pre arm. ------------- Keith
Posted By: darius26
Date Posted: March 23, 2006 at 8:58 AM
Thank you all for the response. I just verified it again. Sorry about some of the confusion as well.. 1). The flash on the dashboard is just the background illumination. Not the check engine, etc. Now I know why it does it. Thanks for your response, Chris. 2.) Prearm mode works only when it's the Driver side door that is open. With the driver side door open, it chirps once and blue light flashes 3 times then pauses ( and so on) as kohara had described. When closed, another chirp is heard and the doors lock, the bluelight flashes once meaning it's armed. Thanks Chris and kohara. This pre-arm (pre-lock, with driver door open) is standard setting for the vehicle. I didn't slam the door, so the sensor is something I'd have to retest. I left the rear door open and pressed the lock, and right away the doors locked, and the alarm chirped twice. The blue light now flashes just once then pauses..and so on telling me it's now armed. I didn't bother trying to close the door. I just knew it was armed and it would then set off the alarm. Can this be fixed so that pre-arm works on any door being left open ? Is it the install ? the bypass ? Or just the way things are ? Oh and I haven't heard back from my installer regarding the defrost. Whether he will install it or if it's the module problem... Thanks again
Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: March 23, 2006 at 4:59 PM
It sounds as if your alarm is only monitoring driver's door. Try this...Get into the car and arm the system..and then open a door. Do this to every door, arming the system, then opening them, one by one. It should go into full alarm as soon as any door is opened. If it does not, your installer hasn't wired all of the door triggers into the system, and he should correct it. You didn't pay to have only the driver's door protected. As for the defrost goes, that would definitely be an 'extra'. There's a separate wire on the unit for it and possibly the need for a relay, depending on the vehicle. Keith ------------- Keith
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