Trunk release relay
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=72687
Printed Date: July 18, 2025 at 11:49 AM
Topic: Trunk release relay
Posted By: yamez
Subject: Trunk release relay
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 12:12 PM
I'm sorry to post such a basic question, but all my efforts have failed thus far. I could not find anything in previous posts that I haven't tried.
I have a 1993 Buick Century and an Alpine SEC 100S alarm. The alarm is installed already, but I want to add trunk release to one of the optional outputs.
No matter how I wire the relay, I cannot get it to work. If I run the feed from the battery straight to the trunk release circuit, it pops. But I cannot get the alarm output to activate that circuit.
Among some other configurations, here's what I really thought would work:
* 85 and 87 to 12V, 30 to trunk release circuit, 86 to alarm output, or
* 87 to trunk release circuit, 86 and 30 to 12V, 85 to alarm output.
What am I missing? Any help would be greatly appreciated.
Replies:
Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 12:18 PM
TRNK/HTCH RELEASE|black |+ |release switch
85 and 87 to 12 volt
30 to the black wire in car
86 wire form alarm.
if that is how u have it make sure you have output form the alarm.
Posted By: streetdream
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 12:40 PM
If it is a negative output from the alarm and you are using a proper relay then you have it wired backwards. Proper relays have diode protection on the coil meaning 85 goes to the (-) output of the alarm and 86 gets your +12V. 30 goes to your trunk and 87 gets +12V with 87a hooked to nothing. Does the relay even click? If not, I'd check to make sure your unit is even outputting anything or that it's not a (+) output for some reason. Though I have seen rare instances where GM cars are a (-) release on the black wire. VERY rare though. Did you try to 5-wire it possibly?
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MECP First Class
Bay Manager
Posted By: yamez
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 1:11 PM
I have tried both of those configurations without success. I also made sure I have the correct output wire from the alarm (yellow with green). Finally, I'm pretty sure that the black wire to the trunk is a (+) switch, because if I connect it directly to my 12V wire it pops.
I'm wondering if the alarm programming is the problem. I'm looking at the alarm installation guide and there are some options I don't recognize.
First, the alarm output EXT1 can be 1 sec or latched--I do not know what latched means. Then I also have:
"EXT1 Imp/Ign Disable" (on/off)
"EXT Trunk/Imp Canc." (on/off)
"EXT Trunk/Imp Sel." (EXT2/EXT3)
Any ideas? Thanks again in advance.
Posted By: streetdream
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 1:59 PM
Latched means when you hit the EXT1 button it holds the signal until you hit the button again. Keep that setting on 1 second. I think you need to use EXT2 with the 1 second setting for trunk release. And then you need to turn the EXT Trunk/Imp. cancel off, with the EXT Trunk/Imp. Sel. set to EXT2. But I really don't know because that programming diagram is confusing as ****. I wouldn't doubt that it is a programming problem keeping you from popping the trunk. You need to test your EXT wire when you press the desired trunk release button. Just try changing all those options until you find a wire to do what you want it to do. Good luck man.
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MECP First Class
Bay Manager
Posted By: yamez
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 2:41 PM
Argh... I set the EXT1-3 all on one second. Then I tried all eight possible combinations of those three programming options. I did all this twice: once for swamprat323's relay configuration and once for streetdream's relay configuration. Still nothing!
I'm really stuck. Any ides out there? Thanks--
Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 3:18 PM
are you sure you got output form the alarm. put a meter to it and see what you get.
Posted By: yamez
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 3:44 PM
We're narrowing the possibilities here. I don't have a meter, but I connected it up to a little 12V fan I used to use to cool an amp. Clicking the clicker doesn't activate the circuit - it's cold. Why would that be?
Posted By: streetdream
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 6:02 PM
You really need a DMM to troubleshoot things like these. They are like a mere $50. I would advise investing in one for future endeavors. ------------- MECP First Class
Bay Manager
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 12, 2006 at 9:13 PM
Either of the two wiring layouts you mention in your first post should work fine, although the first one is the way most of us do it.
Anyway, if you have the relay already set up and all that......... take the 86 wire and touch it to ground.
If the relay clicks and the trunk opens, you've configured the relay correctly; continue troubleshooting why the alarm's output won't work.
Posted By: yamez
Date Posted: March 04, 2006 at 3:45 PM
I've been out of town, sorry for the slow response.
Chris: I tried touching the 86 to ground and got nothing. I guess that means I've got an issue with the alarm... Any ideas?
Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: March 04, 2006 at 5:08 PM
can u say for sure that the relay is working. put 12 volts to pin 86 and put pin 85 to ground, you sould here the relay click if not you have a bad relay.
Posted By: yamez
Date Posted: March 04, 2006 at 5:22 PM
Relay works. If I take the original configuration (85 and 87 to 12V, 30 to trunk release, 86 to alarm output) and connect 86 to ground instead, the relay clicks. But it didn't make the trunk open... Do I have multiple problems here?
Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: March 04, 2006 at 6:28 PM
if you here the relay click and have it wire up that way and it does not open trunk then tere is a problem. are you sure you got the right wire for trunk release.
Posted By: swamprat323
Date Posted: March 04, 2006 at 6:30 PM
Waht kind of connection are you using. i re read your first post. you got the right wire but re do your conection.
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: March 05, 2006 at 12:15 AM
If you short terminal 87 to terminal 30 while you have everything hooked up as you mentioned, does the trunk release work?
If it does, but doesn't work even when you manually energize the relay, and hear it click, then your relay must be bad- could be bad contacts in the relay. Rare but still possible.
That would be just another issue from why you can't even get the relay to click using your alarm output.
Posted By: ky1960
Date Posted: March 05, 2006 at 3:57 AM
what kind the vehicle you install it could be wrong palarity connection when the vehicle trunk release neg you are doing positive output so it can be short terminal 87to terminal 30 recheck your vehicle again to make sure the right palarity
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kvn
Posted By: j_cervantesjr
Date Posted: April 11, 2006 at 2:08 AM
I know i'm a little late on this post but this is for future reference. I've done this install 4 times now and it has worked for me by tagging 85 with the alarms aux(+) wire, 86 gets grounded. The electricity flows from the alarms+(85) thru a electromagnetic wire inside the relay to - ground (86). 30 gets the +12 volt constant and 87 gets the trunk release wire linked. 87(a) stays open (no connection). What happens is when u trigger the alarm it sends a signal thru and creates a magnetic field that pulls a metal tab inside the relay from 87(a) towards 87. This tab is always connected on 30 but (like a dogs tail) wags back and forth between 87(a) and 87 when the alarm is triggered. These relays (especially Bosch) almost never mess up so it might be that you have to program the alarm. I hope this helps anyone in future dilemas.
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