791 into 2003 350z

I am installing a 791 into 2003 350z track (6 speed manual).  I have installed quite a few alarms but I was wanting to clear up some questions I had before installing this alarm in a few days.  Before I get jumped on by some people about not searching first...trust me I have.  I have looked at g35 coupes, sedns, altimas, maximas, etc.  I usually find the year and not color im looking for or verse versa. Anyways the questions...

1.)  Okay, I know there is a neutral safety wire comming out of the ECU...can anyone clear up what color it is and possibley what pin number and/or harness?

2.)  Clutch bypass, I read several people saying use a relay and some that says other stuff...Can some please clearify the proper way to do a clutch bypass with a relay?(relay pin number with wire description would be great)

3.)  Next, thing is that I have directech print out of my car and it says to go into the door for the unlock/lock...but I have read on here and few other sites that you don't have to do that.  Can someone explain these wire locations and colors.  Also, I want to be able roll up my windows with Lock/Arm and be able roll them down with Aux channel.  How would I do this?

4.)  When I install everything in few days I am installing a Alpine IVA-D310 with the navigation unit...What is the wire color for the vss wire?  I know it is behind AC unit... 

(please give me wire colors for 2003 Nissan 350z track  manual)

***Thanks a lot for reading and helping***

My email is littlemac504@aol.com for those who to send this in private message or whatever.

(please give me 2003 350z colors, so it may save me some time)

THANKS!!!

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CRAZY Z

...sorry i left one out....

5.) I read that you can use the "wait to start wire" and wire it into relay and hook it up to the parking brake wire and the car won't crank unless the parking brake is pulled up.  Can anyone please tell me this setup...relay pin configuration and wire colors for them?

Thanks again!

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CRAZY Z

crazy z wrote:

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...sorry i left one out....

5.) I read that you can use the "wait to start wire" and wire it into relay and hook it up to the parking brake wire and the car won't crank unless the parking brake is pulled up. Can anyone please tell me this setup...relay pin configuration and wire colors for them?

Thanks again!

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The 791 is not designed to work on a manual transmission and for you to install it on one is irresponsible.

find yourself a 689M to go with it so you don't have someone killed when this car runs over someone.

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Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta

extreme1, I am big on safety.  This is my personal car I would never do this on a customers car because its against law, it could be misused, DEI is totally against it, etc.  I know this and knew I would get someone to bash me before I got an answer.  But I have seven magnetic switches that I am using for each gear, neutral poistion wire, and e brake wire.  That is 3 major safety issues that I am taking in precaution to prevent anyone getting hurt.  I am first class installer and do this for a living.  But I figured since I found my way to this board yesterday that I could ask these few questions so I wouldnt waste hours of testing with my fluke.  But i guess I didn't bump into a friendly environment .

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CRAZY Z

crazy z wrote:

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I am first class installer and do this for a living... But i guess I didn't bump into a friendly environment

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crazy z, you are confusing a friendly environment with an irresponsible environment. Being a "first class installer", you should know this as well as the answers to your own questions. What you are attempting to do is unsafe even with your seven magnetic switches, hence you looking for a neutral wire. Do the right thing and get a unit designed for a manual transmission vehicle. If you still have questions, we will be happy to help you.

~wirewise~

Neutral wires on Nissans are usually GREEN / WHITE at the ECU

And to actually ANSWER some of your qustions....

1) Neutral position switch is at pin #102 at the ECU (BROWN / Yellow wire color). Sends out chassis ground when in neutral. Pin #102 is located in the second row down, 4th wire from the right (ignoring the 8 larger gauge wires at the right). You'll see pin #101 to the left (Blue/Orange) and pin # 103 to the right is not used.

2) Use a standard Bosch automotive relay to connect the two wires at the clutch interlock switch. The clutch interlock switch in your car has the following wire colors: Gray/Red and Yellow/Red, and should only be connected during vehicle starting.

3) Sure, do your taps at the Body Control Module (BCM) under the fusebox behind the driver side kick. Send your signal into BCM pin 74 (Yellow).

4) VSS signal output is found at the A/C amp behind the AC controls. Either pin 1 (Blue) or pin 11 (Red).

3  If you want to control the windows with the 791 and with out a window controller you'll have to run the lock wires into the drivers door.  Then tag the channel 4 wire to the lock wire and the channel 5 wire to the unlock wire.  Then you'll be able to roll the windows up and down with the remote.   I must admit though some of your questions seem to be pretty basic especially for being first class........

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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

OK it seems as though most of your questions have been answered now and Im gonna tell you right now that this is a very freindly bored when you arent trying to kill the general public. Just get a 689M and then you can install this unit THE RIGHT WAY instead of screwing around with these magnetic switches and crap. Ive been down that route and can tell you that I would never do it again. The 689M is fool proof, cheap and easy to install, you'd be nuts not to do it this way. If there are any other questions be sure to post back but I think you got em all answered

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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer

I know my questions arnt in detail that is because I havn't taken my car apart and it has been several months since I have worked on G35/350z.  And since I am installing this on my own car, I never have time or energy to do it when I get off work.  Because I am senior at Mercer University with chemistry major.   And then working 30 to 40 hours week installing wears me out after I have been in classes half the day...

So, the main reason I even posted anything was to save me some time when I do get around to installing it all.  And the shop I work at doesn't allow you to work on your car the day you work or if the bays are full.  The bays are always full so I basically have to install stuff on my car outside my apartment late at night on campus(campus cops are always thinking I am robbing someone else car).

And where I work at we only deal with DEI products.  And I can get the 791 for around $150.  Which is a heck of a deal for what all it is capable of.  I havnt really heard much about 689M, so the hence of wy it didn't cross my mind. 

***Thanks for the info on the neutral safety wire and VSS wire.  Thats exact info I was looking for.  That will save hour or two of testing there.

Okay about the clutch I am still alittle hestiant...I tested the wires tonight and the fluke was saying that the wire is neither neg or pos triggered.  It was reading like 288 ohms. 

30- input from clutch switch (forgot color since i didnt write down when I was testing)

87-output from clutch switch

85-ground (i know it can be 85 or 86) but I do 85 out of habbit bc whenever a relay has spike suppression diode it has to be liek this or it wont work correctly.

86-starter wire?  I would put this on key side correct? 

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CRAZY Z

Nissan uses the PNP switch (Park/Neutral position) to detect no load engine reving conditions.  This PNP switch is factory installed INSIDE the tranny.  It is a great, reliable way to remote start YOUR manual transmission.  I'm not even sure why you would mess with a magnetic reed switch, let alone 7 of them! 

Yes, the PNP switch is mechanical, and CAN fail.  You should definately verify its operation at least once a month.  But,  if you think about it, how many times have you seen reverse lights that didn't work when you put a car in reverse?  My point is is that those switches are more then capable to outlast the car.  Of course I did read not too long ago about a guy who was 'speed shifting' and broke one of the two switches (either the reverse or PNP switch, I can't remember which one) and it locked his tranny up.

To control the windows you'll definately have to go in to the doors.  You have to anyway to tag the OEM alarm arm and disarm.  I've read about adding wires to the OEM BCM but I would be hesitant to shove bare wires in this BCM and hold them there with wire ties.

Also, be careful when you run your wires through the doors.  Nissan doors seem to retain a LOT of water.  Your wire will provide a channel for the water to follow to enter the cabin.  Directly beneath where the wiring comes in from the door is the BCM.  There has been more then one Nissan BCM fried from water dripping on it.  A telltale sign seems to be the rear wiper moving when remotely locking and unlocking the car.

Theres a ton of info on my350z.com about alarm installs (I'm on there quite a bit, I own a fully built TT G35!)

Good luck,

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Kevin Pierson

crazy z wrote:

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Okay about the clutch I am still alittle hestiant...I tested the wires tonight and the fluke was saying that the wire is neither neg or pos triggered.  It was reading like 288 ohms. 

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Does the fluke speak French too?  What are you measuring ohms for?  The clutch interlock switch has two wires coming out of it (wire colors given to you in my last post).  Clutch goes down, wires are connected... simple as that.  Use a relay to simulate that.  But if you really wanna know where the two leads go to:  One lead goes to switched +12V, and the other lead goes to pin 43 on the IPDM module in the engine bay.  You're simply just measuring input resistance of the starter CPU in the IPDM.  So yes, it's positive tripped, but who cares?

crazy z wrote:

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30- input from clutch switch (forgot color since i didnt write down when I was testing)

87-output from clutch switch

85-ground (i know it can be 85 or 86) but I do 85 out of habbit bc whenever a relay has spike suppression diode it has to be liek this or it wont work correctly.

86-starter wire?  I would put this on key side correct? 

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No even gonna answer this one.  As cntrylvr79 stated, that's a pretty basic question to ask if you're a full time installer.

KPierson wrote:

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Nissan uses the PNP switch (Park/Neutral position) to detect no load engine reving conditions.  This PNP switch is factory installed INSIDE the tranny.  It is a great, reliable way to remote start YOUR manual transmission.  I'm not even sure why you would mess with a magnetic reed switch, let alone 7 of them! 

Yes, the PNP switch is mechanical, and CAN fail.  You should definately verify its operation at least once a month.  But,  if you think about it, how many times have you seen reverse lights that didn't work when you put a car in reverse?  My point is is that those switches are more then capable to outlast the car.  Of course I did read not too long ago about a guy who was 'speed shifting' and broke one of the two switches (either the reverse or PNP switch, I can't remember which one) and it locked his tranny up. 

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Exactly! No need to mess with reed switches or mickey mouse any kind of setup when the PNP switch exists on the tranny from the factory.  In fact, you don't even need to test for failure, since you'll generate a Check engine light and OBD2 code 0705 if the switch goes bad. 

I was going to just use the PNP wire and setup relay to since if the ebrake was pulled up.  But i knew I would get bashed either way if i said I was using a manual or not or magnetic switches.  But O well you live and learn.  Thanks for all info that was provided.

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CRAZY Z

Yeah, people preach the dangers of a remote start on a manual here quite a bit I've noticed.  My personal feeling on it is if the factory provides a NSS switch on a manual car then its just as safe as an auto.  Most people forget (or overlook) that the NSS interlock that is built in on autos is typically mechanical, and it can wear out/break/be bypassed and end up just as unsafe as a manual tranny with no NSS provision. 

That being said, as a professional installer (which I no longer am) I would never install a remote start on a customers manual transmission, regardless of the presence of an OEM NSS.  :)

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Kevin Pierson