Chevrolet Silverado, Alarm kills battery
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73342
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 1:37 AM
Topic: Chevrolet Silverado, Alarm kills battery
Posted By: scott0
Subject: Chevrolet Silverado, Alarm kills battery
Date Posted: February 22, 2006 at 11:48 PM
2004 Silverado ex cab w/ onstar - XM - Bose
o.k. after having my truck broke into and having my digital camera stolen. I decided to get a alarm.
My first alarm I had put in and my battery would go dead after sitting for a day or sometimes less. I thought it was the installer so I took it back, they claimed it wasnt the alarm. Well after I took it back to the dealer they said it was my alternator. so they replaced it 2 days later same issue.
Went back to the alarm installer. they changed out the alarm for a new one. same problem
after my 3rd alarm and 2 months of back and forth. they gave me my money back and took the alarm out... no problems.
so I go to a diffrent alarm installer. had a diffrent alarm installed. 2 days later same issue.
I really would like to have a alarm on my truck for piece of mind but have no idea why this is happening...... Anyone have a similar issue ? it seems if the truck sits longer then 10 hours the result is a dead battery.
this tuck is ewuiped with a onboard computer that lets you control the way the entire car acts, like lock doors when car A. is in park B. gas is pressed B. when key goes into the ignition.
Please help . .. . .. . .. . .
S
Replies:
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: February 23, 2006 at 12:01 AM
Well, I can say that I have never had an alarm cause a battery to die. I have had people claim as much but never have I actually seen it happen. I would double check to make sure that the interior light is not staying on in case the installer wired into the dome light for dome light supervision improperly. I have also seen on GM vehicles a relay fail where it remains in the open position. What it does is it keeps the computer in the car on even when the vehicle is off. This would also cause this issue. I would also check with the installer and see if he tapped right into the factory wires or if the old installer left pig tails on his wires and he tapped into those. if thats the case the installer may have been careless and not tested the wires. my point there is if the old installer had doen something improperly than the new installer might have duplicated the same error.
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double-secret reverse-osmosis speaker-cone-induced high-level interference distortion, Its a killer
Posted By: scott0
Date Posted: February 23, 2006 at 9:23 AM
I know it wasnt the dome light issue.
Is it possible to run the power directly from the battery ? may that help solve any miss wire issues. As far as I know the old installer re-wired it because he thought the helper that did it at his shop did something wrong. The new installer said he had to remove all of the t clamps the old installer used, because he didnt like using them.
its a crimestopper alarm if this helps.
Posted By: mike swanson
Date Posted: February 23, 2006 at 10:45 AM
If you take it back to the shop and ask them to check the truck for a draw on the batt they can find where it is coming from. If they dont know how to do this, then take it to another place.
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: February 23, 2006 at 4:19 PM
If there is any draw of power off of the domelight circuit in any gm vehicle then it will cause this problem, the computer staying on. I think the second shop probably used the same wires the first shop did to wire the alarm thus causing the same issue.
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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.
I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.
Posted By: wiretapper
Date Posted: February 23, 2006 at 10:15 PM
You've got other issues with that truck, TOTALLY unrelated to any alarm install. The truck is an '04......take it back to the dealer under warranty and get it tested for an electrical draw! It's more common on the GM trucks than you think. Then, when you're finished with that, go back to the original installer with a case of beer and an apology.
Posted By: scott0
Date Posted: February 23, 2006 at 11:54 PM
wiretapper I never blamed either installer. TELL me this why does it not happen when the alarm is disconnected ??? it is not the truck I HAVE NEVER HAD A ISSUE BEFORE THE ALARM. did you read my entire post.... ? I have no issues with the truck but only issue I had was when the alarm was installed. so you are TOTALLY wrong, its been to the dealer 2 times for over a week.
Ill take him a case of beer if he could fix my alarm.
I hope you are not a reflection of this entire site.
Posted By: arrivalanche
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 12:39 AM
ill back up wiretapper on that one because i have had install notices sent to me about how on some GMs if you use certin wires for power it will keep the computer from shutting off. it is programmable by the dealership to adjust that. also if you have ever done a remotestart in a 03+ gm you would know that they are very strange on circuit triggers. from instance if you probe the starter with a power probe just the smallest ground will even activate the starter and cause it to crank even though its supposed to be a + trigger.
my suggestion would be to try pulling just the constant 12+ fuse and see if just the ground from the alarm on a circuit will still cause your batt to drain. if so than its not the power from your alarm (which ive NEVER seen happen EVER!!), its something being activated by your alarm.
also who is doing your alarm? please dont say your taking it to some best buy or circuit city. those people dont know their head from their ass.
Posted By: x-performance
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 4:43 AM
Just wondering, is it a remote start alarm? If so, what kind of bypass module does it have.
Posted By: scott0
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 9:41 AM
arrivalanche - I appreciate your post unlike wiretapper you gave me a good explanation of what it could be. Although I never blamed either installer. (Not a best buy ) or (cicuit city) wich he is slaiming im doing personally I think wiretapper is a AHOLE but every forum attracts them so what can you do but ignore them.
x-performance - no there is no autostart on the truck.
Thanks guys for trying to help me resolve my issue. I will try what you suggest arrivalanche.
thanks.
Posted By: mike swanson
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 9:52 AM
IT IS SO EASY TO TEST THE TRUCK FOR A DRAW. Stop typing and do the test you will find where the issue is.
What more do you want. Its that simple.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 10:17 AM
Hey scott0, sorry about the other member's and it is not like that on this forum. We try to be as professional as possible with our responses here but sometimes, you read into a response differently than what is posted. Here are some things that you can do yourself to test for a current draw: Problem : Customer claims that the security system is draining the vehicle battery.
Solution : The following is a thorough test to determine exactly what, if anything, is causing an excessive current draw in the vehicle. - Make sure that all doors are closed and there are no dome or hood lights on.
- Disconnect the negative terminal of the vehicle’ battery (If the vehicle has an anti-theft radio, be sure you know the code before disconnecting)
- Select your digital multi-meter 10-amp DC scale.
- Connect the multi-meter negative lead to the negative battery post and the positive lead to the terminal you removed in step 2
- Cut the parking light output of your Crimestopper system (this will avoid excessive current draw when arming protecting your meter). Disarm the system and wait 30 seconds for the dome light to turn off. Now the total vehicle’s and alarm current is running through your meter. Write this measurement down.
- Arm the system. Now the total vehicle’s and alarm in armed state current is running through your meter. Write this measurement down. You can now reconnect the parking light output of your Crimestopper system
- Remove the alarm fuses, then take a second reading. This measurement is the vehicle’s current draw without the alarm. The difference is the total draw of the Crimestopper system in armed state and also in disarmed state.
This method shows us three important things : How much total current is being drawn, how much the vehicle draws it self, and how much the alarm systems draws. A standard alarm system should draw anywhere from 0.02 amp (a basic system), to 0.1 amp (for a full blown system with multiple sensors, Window module, remote starter, etc.). If the total for the alarm is higher than normal, you can test each fused line separately to determine what portion of the alarm system is drawing excessive current. Simply reconnect the battery’s negative terminal, and put your meter in line on one fuse holder at the time with the fuse removed.  ------------- Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: February 24, 2006 at 7:30 PM
One thing I might suggest on the test procedure is to try to connect the ammeter to the battery terminal and post before disconnecting the battery terminal (probably would help to get a second pair of hands if you don't have a good set of test lead clips).
That will avoid your having to wait for the car's systems to go back to sleep mode, and the resetting of the radio codes and stuff.
Start with the highest current range to protect the meter, and reconnect the battery terminal before switching down into the lower current ranges for better resolution; that maintains power to the car at all times.
Easier to do this with a top post battery-
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