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Instrument Cluster

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73566
Printed Date: May 29, 2024 at 3:02 AM


Topic: Instrument Cluster

Posted By: mugpar
Subject: Instrument Cluster
Date Posted: February 26, 2006 at 9:25 PM

I just finished a remote start on a chrysler 300c. I put it back together, and now the intrument panel will not work. All the lights inside the cluster work, but no speedo, tach, gas gauge. I pulled the cluster out, and checked the wires, all 3 plugs are plugged in. I checked every fuse in the car, and no blown fuses. The cluster doesn't work when I remote start, or when a start with key.



Replies:

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 6:35 AM
There is likely to be more than one fuse box----you have checked all of the fuse boxes?

Have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes?

Any chance you unplugged something under the dash because it was in your way, and then forgot to plug it back in?

If all of that fails, try disconnecting your resistor/relay setup from the PURPLE / brown wire........I'd be willing to bet that the gauges drop out during crank..........if you are accidentally supplying the "crank" resistance to the PURPLE / brown, probably the gauges will turn off.




Posted By: mugpar
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 6:02 PM
Ok, so today I go out, and the car is completely dead. So I put a battery charger on, it starts to charge, so I try to crank and nothing, but when i take the key out, it chimes, and the display says key in, but the key is out, it does this for about a minute, then turns off, all the while, the battery is still charging.




Posted By: mugpar
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 6:28 PM
I am thinking it did this due to the battery being too low, cause it is no longer doing this, I just have to figure out what is draining the batt over night. Here is my relays. Second starter relay. pin 85 to purple from 4 pin on rs. 86 to 12 volt. 87a to key side of second starter / acc wire. pin 30 motor side of second starter wire. 87 to ground.
Acc relay
pin85 orange wire from RS syster. 87a not used. 86 to 12 volt. 87 to ground. and pin 30 to the second starter, motor side. Any idead? Thaks




Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 10:13 PM

Depending on the Model R / S you are Installing, your Relay wiring is different than DEI Instructions:

https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1084.pdf

Also what Resistors are you using?



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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.




Posted By: customak47
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 11:04 PM

I don't know if this will help, but i had a problem with a 300c that the gauges wouldn't work intermittently during remote start. turns out it was because the way I had it wired (positive ign 1 and neg out to relay powering multiplexed ign 2) the car was seeing the neg trig ign wire powered up before the 1st and caused cluster to trip up. instead of using constant 12+ and neg out while running to trigger 2nd ign, i used ign 1 pos output and neg out while running, then the relay and 1st ign powered up same time. this corrected cluster issue. goodluck



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My rifle is my friend...




Posted By: audiophd
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 11:24 AM
The problem i once had with a 300c was after i got evrything in and working i was like ok all i have to do is connect locks and im done. well i couldnt reach the lock wire to solder so like anyone else would do i disconnected the factory alarm harness cause as most of you know you can get most wires there. i get em connected and as soon as i plugged it in the factory alarm went off. so with the key  i shut it off and then the car wouldnt start. not with the key not with the remotestart. i called the dealer and they said i had put it into whats called "LOCK OUT MODE" and have to leave the battery dissconnected for like 36 hours or something redicilous like that. after dicking around with it abit more i realized it wasnt in lockout mode so i grabbed my trusty fluke and found a blown 15 amp fuse in the rear by the battery. replaced it and everything was good. i guess the circuitry in those car are so sensitive. so be carefull. i talked to a few other reputative installers in the area and they said to hell with them cars.




Posted By: mugpar
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 3:14 PM
I even went to the extent of pulling the rs out. I checked every fuse, both boxes, the one under the hood, and the one next to the battery in the trunk. Started the car, and still no instrument cluster, but the lights in the panel work fine.




Posted By: mugpar
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 5:46 PM
So today I go out to the car again, and it's dead. I start searching under the dash, and find this wire, does any have a 300c? or know what this wire goes to? Please help.
posted_imageposted_image




Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 8:21 PM

Is that the Dome Light .....goes to Cluster??

Are your Dome lights shuting Off?



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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.




Posted By: mugpar
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 8:30 PM
Nope, dome lights are on, it won't reach to the cluster, i already tried, and i even took the cluster out, nothing for it to go to.





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