Soldering heavy gauge wire
Printed From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=73610
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 11:36 AM
Topic: Soldering heavy gauge wire
Posted By: 1998chevy1500
Subject: Soldering heavy gauge wire
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 6:31 PM
I just finished installing a remote start in my truck, soldering all of the joints for a good connection. However my soldering iron just didn't have the power to properly melt the solder into the joints on the ignition wires, it just kind of blobed the solder on top of the joint. To fix it I took a little pocket torch lighter that puts out a nice little hot blue flame and heated the joint with it. It seemed to work nicely, after heating the joint for about 15 seconds the solder started to liquify and wick into the connection. What I am wondering about is the excess amount of the rosin (I blieve thats what its called) that appeared on the surface of the joint. I don't know if thats a bad thing, or what exactly even caused it. I know the joint lookes a lot better this way than with the solder melted on top of the joint, but the excessive amount of buildup on the surface of the joint has me a little concerned. Oh, and for "heat shielding" I also used an old CD that I found on the floor so that I didn't melt any of the other wires in the process.
So after all that what I really want to know is this something that I should be concerend about or something that is somewhat natural when soldering larger gauge wire properly?
Here are the pictures, sorry about them being a little blurry.
Thankx
Conrad
P.S. Not that it really matters but it was in a 1998 Chevy K1500, but the rules do say list the year and model.
So after all that what I really want to know is this something that I should be concerend about or something that is somewhat natural when soldering larger gauge wire properly?
Here are the pictures, sorry about them being a little blurry.
Thankx
Conrad
P.S. Not that it really matters but it was in a 1998 Chevy K1500, but the rules do say list the year and model.
Replies:
Posted By: genehewett
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 7:36 PM
Posted By: 1998chevy1500
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:04 PM
Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:07 PM
Posted By: bazzgazm
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 9:16 PM
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 10:25 PM
Posted By: 1998chevy1500
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 11:19 PM
Cold solder joint, nuts I thought I was preventing that by actually heating the joint so that the solder wicked into the wires instead of sitting on the surface.
100/140W is what you need for heavy gauge wire, that definatly explains why my measly little 30W Radio Shack special soldering iron didn't have what it took to heat the joint. If sometime in the future I happen to do another install I will definatly invest in a soldering gun. Also if I were to tear back into the dash and reheat these joints with the gun would I be able to fix the cold solder problem? Is there a time frame before the solder can't be properly reheated?
I did do the strip the wire back, poke hole, wrap tight solder with a slight variation. I only poked about half of the wire through the center while the other half remained on the outside and then wrapped them around the wire in opposite directions. The reason for this was I was having trouble getting the wire to wrap tight if I kept it all together. Not really sure if my description of what I did is all that good.
Thank you for passing on the knowledge I am always up for learning something new. I have progressed a long way from the first remote start that I put in this truck 2 years ago where I mounted the brain to the fire wall right under the carpet(a rediculuously obvous spot espically with the rats nest of non factory looking wires that I had running to it) and made all my connections with dare I even say Scotch locks/quick connects
. So I feel that I have come a long way in the 2 years that have passed, but I still have a lot to learn.
Thankx for the help every one
Conrad
100/140W is what you need for heavy gauge wire, that definatly explains why my measly little 30W Radio Shack special soldering iron didn't have what it took to heat the joint. If sometime in the future I happen to do another install I will definatly invest in a soldering gun. Also if I were to tear back into the dash and reheat these joints with the gun would I be able to fix the cold solder problem? Is there a time frame before the solder can't be properly reheated?
I did do the strip the wire back, poke hole, wrap tight solder with a slight variation. I only poked about half of the wire through the center while the other half remained on the outside and then wrapped them around the wire in opposite directions. The reason for this was I was having trouble getting the wire to wrap tight if I kept it all together. Not really sure if my description of what I did is all that good.
Thank you for passing on the knowledge I am always up for learning something new. I have progressed a long way from the first remote start that I put in this truck 2 years ago where I mounted the brain to the fire wall right under the carpet(a rediculuously obvous spot espically with the rats nest of non factory looking wires that I had running to it) and made all my connections with dare I even say Scotch locks/quick connects
. So I feel that I have come a long way in the 2 years that have passed, but I still have a lot to learn.
Thankx for the help every one
Conrad
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: February 27, 2006 at 11:57 PM
Posted By: amcmac
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 4:48 AM
Posted By: mrcllusb
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 5:12 AM
Posted By: 1998chevy1500
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 9:01 AM
Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 9:48 AM
If I can add something to this is that better tools will give you better results. If you have not use a high temperature soldering tool before do try to use it just once. You will find the difference quite noticable. If you are a DIY, borrow one on for the weekend and return it Monday. This is the type of power that everyone should be using if you want better result. 260 Watt. Anything less power the job kinda get messy. Soldering gun.
Also, if you are going to loop the wire through. Don't worry about soldering. The tape will hold out. Trust me on this.
Do one or the other, but don't do both. You are just wasting time! If you are going to loop the wire through, do a good job taping up the wire. If you are going to solder the wire together do a good job soldering the wires together.
-------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.
Also, if you are going to loop the wire through. Don't worry about soldering. The tape will hold out. Trust me on this.
Do one or the other, but don't do both. You are just wasting time! If you are going to loop the wire through, do a good job taping up the wire. If you are going to solder the wire together do a good job soldering the wires together. -------------
Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it.
Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 10:18 AM
Personally I love my cordless butane soldering iron. Heats up within 15 seconds and stays hot throughout my installation. They are a bit pricey but well worth the extra $$ when you consider no wires, no wait time and if maintained, the tips will last you years ( or months if you do alot of soldering ).
WST2
PyroPen Butane Mini Hot Air & Soldering Iron
-------------
Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA
Posted By: 5150azn
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 11:01 AM
Posted By: bazzgazm
Date Posted: February 28, 2006 at 2:03 PM
Posted By: bryan grzonka
Date Posted: March 03, 2006 at 9:35 PM
Posted By: Ravendarat
Date Posted: March 03, 2006 at 10:55 PM