Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2006 Dodge Charger remote start/keyless

The 556U is a solid solution, for bypassing the transponder in the vehicle. This piece requires one pre-programmed key installed in a box to work.

There is another option from bypasskit.com (Omega) that will do a little more than just the transponder bypass. It will program to the vehicle just like adding another key and not require losing a key (2 pre-programmed keys needed to program the unit). It will also allow you to lock/unlock, arm/disarm, pop trunk, via a single vehicle wire connection and give you the correct output for the second starter/accessory wire too.

https://bypasskit.com/product.aspx?prodid=CHDL7-PK2

dei556cw will work to and you won't lose a key just need two programmed keys which you should have gotten

I'm going to be doing a 2 step unlock setup on an '06 Dodge Charger. I'm wondering if anyone knows the wires to use for such a setup.

You would be better off getting a combo bypass module that does the doorlocks and transponder. It would also control the factory alarm assuming your car has one.

Check your PM's.

I belive the doorlock motor wires have no "rest state" on new Chryslers-----you'd need to perform TWO 5-wire setups----one to give positive to one side of the driver's actuator, and the other relay to ground the other wire.

That's a lot of work.

I'd look into a databus module, as JWorm said.

Another possible solution, which we've done where I work, is to install two separate products-----a simple, one-button remote start, as well as a "keyless upgrade" alarm system------then, the customer would just be using their factory remotes, which already has the features they want.

Or, if range is not a concern, you could even do a keyless-upgrade alarm, AND a remote start off the factory remotes.

In reading the replies I think I might have not been very clear in what I'm looking to do.

The vehicle already has keyless entry. As for a factory alarm, there doesn't seem to be one. On the current keyless entry setup if you press the unlock button once, only the driver's door unlocks. If you press the unlock button twice then all four doors unlock. That's what I'm looking to have the aftermarket system do.

Asked for a 556CW today and got a 556UW. Guess I'll have to take it back and swap it. Thanks for the help folks!

dei#457cw i think.....ibelieve this will help.

data bus interface w/ 2 step unlock(drivers priority)

Actually it looks as if everyone replied correctly to your question(unlock driver's door first, then the remainder...just like the factory remote).

In your other post you inquired about a bypass for the transponder. The piece that I mentioned in the other post will do both the bypass, and the unlocking as you requested, as well as arm/disarm, trunk pop, etc. so long as your aftermarket controller offers seperate lock and unlock buttons.

This link from Omega is the piece I am referring to.

LOL...2 mins late.

Does the 457CW work in the Charger? I thought there was something different with the Sentry Key (Second Gen maybe?). I ask, because I prefer DEI products but their techsoft does not list the 457CW as an option, just the 556CW or the 556U for transponder bypass, and the 456LW generic resistance learning controller for locks.

--I don't believe the 457CW works on the newer cars. DEI finally comes out with a module, and it's for a bunch of cars they don't make anymore!

--As far as doing driver's-priority unlock from the aftermarket remote, it can be done-----TWO 5-wire setups, with relays.

But, keep in mind that the driver of the car, sooner or later, will try to unlock the car with the FACTORY remote that's built into the key--------that's going to trigger the aftermarket alarm, and cause a lot of confusion.

Do consider my other suggestion------install an alarm that operates from the factory remotes, such as an Audiovox PRO-9232A, DEI Automate AM1/Hornet 700T......and then a separate, one-button remote start, like the Audiovox AS-9055T.

--Another option, if your budget allows, is to purchase one or two ordinary, gray-head Chrysler keys, program them to the car, and don't carry the original keys around anymore.

Twelvoltz wrote:

LOL...2 mins late.

Does the 457CW work in the Charger? I thought there was something different with the Sentry Key (Second Gen maybe?). I ask, because I prefer DEI products but their techsoft does not list the 457CW as an option, just the 556CW or the 556U for transponder bypass, and the 456LW generic resistance learning controller for locks.

The 457c doesn't work in a charger. Actually in the 20 or so chryslers I've tried to use that piece in not one of them has worked properly. SO I saw run away from a 457c as fast as you can. Way to many issues

-------------
Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

Well, trying to find the all-door trigger where DEI says to look isn't working so well. They say it's a yellow/white wire and there are none in the driver's pillar. Anyone here worked on this car know where the trigger is?

I'd do an alarm that works off the factory remote but the customer wants a 2 way LCD remote.

I'm a little confused about programming the grey keys and not using the originals anymore.

Found the correct wire for the all-door trigger. The wiring sheet I had was wrong on a few different things. Turns out that the all-door trigger is the dome supervision wire and only seems to work when the driver's door is opened. Any other door being opened and the dome light trigger doesn't work.

I'm curious about the parking light resistor value though. I've now seen 3 different resistance values for the parking lights on this car. I'm wondering if anyone has done one of these and knows what resistor will work. The problem with the resistor DEI recommends is that it's not readily available around here.

As far as the resistor values are concerned, you can set multiple resistors in parallel and or series to achieve the value you need, any rat shack will stock what you need.

This car also offers a positive trigger parking light option in the passenger kick panel, eliminating the need for resistors, it is the WHITE/ purple in a 26 pin brown connector, pin 26.

Hope this helps.

Thanks very much for the info folks.

Can anyone give me a confirmation on the 457CW. I'm reading 2 different things in this thread. Had anyone here gotten it to work on a Charger?

Scratch that, it looks like it's the 456L that I need for this thing.

If you use the Omega/Bypasskit.com/Fortinautoradio piece then you can get everything you need including a Sentry bypass in one box. You can see the installation manual here. As others have already stated, this piece does lock/unlock/arm/disarm/trunk release/second starter wire with only 2 vehicle connections.

Well, I already bought the Directed transponder bypass as well as the 457CW. The 457CW I'm going to have to to bring back for credit. I'm just going to use relays to do the door lock/unlock.

The manual for the APS997 doesn't list a second starter wire. It does however list an ignition 2. Are these the same wire?

nexdeci wrote:

The manual for the APS997 doesn't list a second starter wire. It does however list an ignition 2. Are these the same wire?

No, they are not, the starter output only energizes while the starter cranking, not in any other position. There is a BLACK / YELLOW listed as a "ground output during start (crank)", I believe this is the wire you would use to trigger a relay during the cranking sequence.

Ok, so the BLACK / YELLOW wire should go into a relay and then I should come from the relay to the 2nd Starter wire?

Is the 2nd ignition wire for this unit needed, if so where is it supposed to be hooked up?

Here (using the correct resistor values) is how you wire the second starter/accessory circuit in the 2006 Charger. This diagram is for DEI branded starters, and I do not see a negative output for accessory on the Audiovox piece. In your application you would use the BLACK / YELLOW in place of the purple shown in the diagram. You would also need to change the accessory relay's 85 and 86 pins, you would use the heavy purple positive accessory output to trigger the relay(85), requiring the other end of it(86) to rest at ground (as opposed to triggering with a negative and supplying a constant hot). Your car does not require a second ignition output so that wire will not be used.

Thank you very much. Been having a bad case of brain freeze lately. Now I understand.

That DEI diagram is okay.....but is a little more complicated than necessary, and also causes the car to not quite operate properly.

Here is how I wire them up:
https://www.carsound.com/UBB/ultimatebb.php?ubb=get_topic;f=3;t=002073#000000

And here is an excerpt from that post:

If you supply ground through a resistor, it'll work. But then when you insert the key for take-over, the climate controls and radio shut off until you hit the brake. I didn't like that.

85: ground-while-running from remote start
86: ignition 2 from remote start
87: 610-ohm resistor. I chose to connect the other side of the resistor to the factory Chrysler ground wire in the ignition harness; I think it was PURPLE / orange. But chassis ground should be fine.
---CUT PURPLE / TAN WIRE IN HALF---
87a: keyswitch side of PURPLE / tan
30: car side of PURPLE / tan

Also, connect BLACK / YELLOW Audiovox "pulse during crank" to 30. This works perfectly on Caravans, with no resistor and no relay, so I don't see why it wouldn't work here.

Chris Luongo wrote:

85: ground-while-running from remote start
86: ignition 2 from remote start
87: 610-ohm resistor. I chose to connect the other side of the resistor to the factory Chrysler ground wire in the ignition harness; I think it was PURPLE / orange. But chassis ground should be fine.
---CUT PURPLE / TAN WIRE IN HALF---
87a: keyswitch side of PURPLE / tan
30: car side of PURPLE / tan

Also, connect BLACK / YELLOW Audiovox "pulse during crank" to 30. This works perfectly on Caravans, with no resistor and no relay, so I don't see why it wouldn't work here.

Has anyone tried using this method with a DEI piece, using their purple negative starter output? I assume it would work the same since they are both just transistor outputs.

I ran the setup twelvoltz gave me already. I seem to be having a problem with remote start though. Dash lights and radio turn on but the car isn't cranking. Any advice?

When checking with a voltage meter, the wire said to be the starter wire has no voltage during cranking. Last I knew this wire is supposed to show +12v when cranking. I'm at a loss of ideas on this one.

Ok, seems we've narrowed it down. The yellow starter wire and blue ignition wire from the R/S are not putting out 12 volts during the remote start procedure. The start wire in the car IS showing 12 volts during start, I was mistaken on that one.

Any idea why these wires aren't putting out the voltage they're supposed to during the remote start procedure?

Fixed the problem. Got the remote start working but now Ive got a check engine light that won't go out. Any ideas?

Sorry to be a pain in the neck. This install has been a terror and a half.

Here's the status of things..

Remote start is now working. I've got it set for voltage checking. The remote start will crank and start and a second or two later it will shut off. The remote start will then crank and start a second time and will stay running.

When running under remote start none of the gauges are working. Once I put the key in, turn it to on and disengage the remote start the gauges will turn on. If I start the car with the key the gauges will work just fine.

nexdeci wrote:

Remote start is now working. I've got it set for voltage checking. The remote start will crank and start and a second or two later it will shut off. The remote start will then crank and start a second time and will stay running.

Have you tried using option 14 of your manual? The "crank averaging" option? This may help with your problem.

nexdeci wrote:

When running under remote start none of the gauges are working. Once I put the key in, turn it to on and disengage the remote start the gauges will turn on. If I start the car with the key the gauges will work just fine.

The accessory/second wire I information I posted was from DEI. Chris Luongo gave a different way to wire this circuit and in my opinion his approach makes more sense than the DEI listing, you can find his information here (this is copied and pasted from his earlier post in this thread). I would try this method, as it seems to me that your accessory wire is not activating correctly.