564T Hornet Clearing Memory Issue

Hey guys. I've spent a couple hours here alone trying to figure out my problem. It's probably really simple and I've just been staring at it for too long.

Car:
98 Honda Accord Coupe

Alarm:
DEI Hornet 564T

Problem:
The remote as well as the brain do not reset after the car has been 'tampered' with. According to the manual:
"The security system will retain this information in its memory and chirp four or five times each time it is disarmed, until the next time that the ignition is turned on."

When I turn on the vehicle or just turn the key to the on/acc the system does not clear the warning

I have the 12V constant right off of the battery
I have the shock sensor completely removed

I have tested my door trigger input
(note: when the brain is not connected and the door is opened the blk/white is @ 0v. However with the brain plugged in I receive an ~ .6v constant - could this be the culprit?)

The alarm arms and disarms just fine. If I arm the vehicle, unlock the vehicle and open the door it triggers the alarm. So it all appears to be wired correctly except I having the issue of the brain not clearing it's memory.

I had the shock sensor plugged in originally and it appears to be functioning correctly even though the wording/diagram is a bit fuzzy to me. With the sensor connected, if I tap the sensor, the alarm goes off. So that appears to be working. I do question my wiring of it as well though.

Out of the box the shock sensor has:

GRN wire that loops back into the BLU wire
BLK
RD

The other end:
GRN wire that is free - (I believe this is for connecting to a separate dual stage shock sensor)
BLU
BLK
RD

What I have taken from the directions and interpreted is:

The green looped wire i have snipped, twisted together and added a connector. I then connected the blue multiplexed input from the primary harness to this GRN/BLU combo. I taped off the extra green from the other end. Not sure which end goes into the shock sensor, shouldn't matter?

I felt by removing the shock sensor altogether that I could eliminate part of the equation. However, I could see how the module may need it to check all zones before it can go back to an 'OK' status.

If you need any other information, just let me know. Please don't tear me apart on this, I like to do things myself rather then pay someone and never know how the stuff really works. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Now that I'm thinking about it, one of the wires that I haven't hooked up that I had doubts about is an Orange wire, -500ma Armed Output. Quite honestly I have no idea what to do with this. In the manual it states that it may be wired to an optional DEI 8618 starter kill relay - so I taped it off, assuming it was not needed for my application.

I didn't dry solder joint it, it's connected correctly to the battery post with a 15amp fuse in between.

I haven't actually tested the voltage while cranking. Should it fluctuate?

I have not connected the following wires either:
WHITE/ Blue - remote start -activation input (i won't be doing the remote start for the time being)
BLACK/ White -200ma domelight supervision output - not needed
Violet - + door trigger, I used the green wire instead
RED / White - intended for secondary feature ie trunk release etc.

Also this vehicle does not have a factory anti-theft system and the car model is an LX

Thanks!

Dave

Its cool only need orange wire for starter kill every thing sounds right,  but the module uses the ign sense to reset sounds maybe faulty internally maybe try another module to be sure,  yeah voltage should drop while cranking but not dissappear.

Dwayne

Cool. I will double check the voltage on my constant. I really feel that it's just a wiring issue and that the module itself is fine, well at least that's what I want to believe!

Note: I didn't connect to the IGN mainly due to the fact that I'm not excited about cutting into the IGN wiring. Also when I metered it, it went from 12v to ~ 14+. I would believe that I would want what you described above, a drop in in voltage.

Thanks for you help,

Dave

The yellow wire from the alarm is IGN sense and MUST be connected in order for the alarm to know when the car is running or not I think the factory IGN wire is BLACK / YELLOW or BLACK/ White check with a test light.  Ignition harness is safe to probe they will be wrapped in thick black plastic there should be 5 thick wires inside.  You still need to hook up remote start wiring just leave it disabled for now.

Dwayne

Hmm. Problem with that is the yellow wire from the alarm is part of a ribbon that connects the brain to the remote start module itself. The remote start module then connects to the starter, IGN, etc.

here's a link to my actual installation manual:
https://directechs.com/guides/manuals/ig/hornet/N564T_01-05.pdf

If you scroll to page 14, that is where it begins to talk about the primary harness and it's use. If you can help make sense out of it, I will be one happy guy. Since there is the WHITE/ blue remote start activation input that is part of the primary that I did not connect since I had not planned on installing the remote start feature, but that could be my 'yellow' wire?

Now I know why some shops charge $150+ for an install! But if I didn't tackle this myself, I would never appreciate it either!

Thanks again in advance!

Dave

Also, an interesting side note: The 564T that I have, it specifically covers a section talking about how the car can in fact be armed while running. Not just doors locked and engine remotely started, but you can get in, start the car and arm the car. That's some paranoia for ya! So there may be an absense of the yellow wire due to this 'feature'

Dave

Not sure but thats for cars with turbo timers.

Very cool. That make sense. The system purchased after all is a RS/Security system.

I will go ahead and forge on with this new information and see where that takes me.

Should I re-wire the primary harness into the 12v White on the IGN harness, and while I'm there solder up the Red 12V constant from the relay pack? I guess that's how it should've been done in the beginning.

I will definitely keep you guys posted. Thanks for the constructive help!

Dave

Ok, so I see. Just the Pink to the IGN will allow the yellow to send info to the module stating IGN had been turned on/off. Thus not needing to place the Red 12v to the constant.

I'm feel like I should just go ahead with the sat relay, it's only a few wires and I can always re-solder the ignition I suppose. I think the part that scares me the most is the car not turning over after all of this.

Now, question on the ignition harness. I've traced the wires coming from the ignition/key hole. Traced that to the fuse box, this is the section of wire i want to cut into correct? I've metered it all and it all adds up - I just want to be sure I'm cutting into the right stuff before Chainsaw Massacre Dave goes at it.

I called my local 'known good quality' shop and they wanted $325 - holy snikies! Yes that is just for the install.

Well I've gotten myself into this mess, time to cut, splice and solder my way out.

Dave

It's a beautiful thang! Thank you guys for your input and help. I've got it clearing the alarm notice, I have it remote starting too! I'm pretty freakin jacked right now. Funny thing - I was beating my head against the wall - getting really frustrated since it would not remote start. I moved my ground, I checked my neutral ground wire, I metered this, metered that. Layed on my back and metered the WHITE/ Black and pressed the RS button. It started - I thought I had a bad ground. Well turns out I'm a du-mass. I forgot you have to press it twice. LMFAO! Classic moment of slapping the hand against the head and hoping no one was around to see you. hehe.

Any who all I have to now is:

Move a ground wire - haha
Located a good place for the horn
Mount the valet switch/LED
Add the key bypass module. That looks like a blast! (sarcasim) If I got the rest of it installed, that should go relatively smoothly.

Last but not least, Leave thanks to the forum.

Dave

Done.

All I got left is mounting the siren and puttin all the panels back. Calling it a night.

Dave