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06 Camry, Crimestopper 2016FMPrinted From: the12volt.comForum Name: Car Security and Convenience Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc. URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74333 Printed Date: June 04, 2024 at 8:50 PM Topic: 06 Camry, Crimestopper 2016FM Posted By: rfh1234 Subject: 06 Camry, Crimestopper 2016FM Date Posted: March 10, 2006 at 10:08 AM Hi, I need wiring info for a 2006 Camry. It is just a base model. I am installing a Crimestopper 2016FM. Is it the same as the 2005? I put a Crimestopper 2005FM in my 4Runner a few years ago using only info & help from people on this site. The installation came out great. Worked correctly the very first try. Hopefully this vehicle will be the same. I checked for requests on this vehicle and found none. I hope this isn't a duplicate question. Thanks, Ron Replies: Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 12, 2006 at 5:07 AM Hi, I am about to start installing a Crimestopper 2016FM in a 2006 Camry. This is a BASE MODEL Camry, not a “Limited” or anything like that, just the base model (though it comes nicely equipped) I already have the standard wiring printout, many thanks for that. I am not a pro installer, but I have installed a Crimestopper 2005FM in my 4-Runner 5 years ago(?) and a Crimestopper 2006FM in my wifes Solara a year or so ago. Both solely with the help from people here. I've tried to be a minimal pain in the a** and I try to find my specific answers before posting. Both systems previously installed worked flawlessly when tested. This car is for my daughter going to college and a 3 day a week job. I could have it installed, but a lot of installers are looking to get in & out quickly and I wouldn’t want to pay the extra for someone to do a spectacular job, so I guess I’ll do it myself, again. I want to try and make it at least a little difficult for anyone who'd try and steal this car I know I could ring all wires out, test and double test everything, but if someone has the knowledge already and could just help me out, I'd save a ton of time Materials. I was going to use the blue wire connectors from Radio Shack. You lay the wire you want to tap into on one side and the alrms wire on the other, close and squeeze. Does anyone have a problem with these connectors? Obviously soldering would be best, but… I guess I’m just a bit lazy I was going to install the alarm/remote starter brain in behind the instrument cluster. There appears to be enough room for this and possibly any relays plus it would be difficult for someone to get to quickly or comfortably. Do this sound good? Some of this is asking for info and some I am just looking to confirm that I’ve got it right Anyway.... I started at the ignition switch. It was amazing how quickly & easy this car is to disassemble. The ignition switch plug has 2 BLACK / YELLOW wires in it. One for 2nd starter and one for 2nd ignition. I need the one for IGN 2. How do I tell which BLACK / YELLOW wire is for IGN 2 and which for 2nd starter As for the 2nd starter. I read that this is for cold day starts(?) and unless hooked up, car wont crank with remote start on very cold days, yet I see no connection on my alarm for the 2nd starter wire Door lock wires. I have kick plate removed and there are 3 wire harnesses coming out of door. Top harness is white w/8 wires, middle is grey w/4 wires, lowest plug is blue with 9 wires. Id prefer to make connection here opposed to at fuse box area, again to make things difficult for thief, but am unsure which harness is right one. It also appears that I may have to push the “unlock” button on remote twice to unlock all doors. Once for drivers door and again to unlock other doors. I’d like to avoid this if possible Trigger. Do I have to run more than 1 wire for this. Are these doors independently triggered? It appears that there are 3 wires, each requiring a diode, one for each front door and 1 for the 2 rear doors, but my alarm manual says that I could go to the one wire that turns the dome light on when any door is opened. However, I thought I read that you can get faulty readings as far as door ajar etc. if you do it this way As for the headlights, parking lights, signals, I have steering column cover removed and total access to plug that goes into light switch on steering column. I'd prefer to wire any flashing lights etc here but dont know which wires to tap into. The plug has 12 wires in it Horn trigger, does anyone know off the top of their head if horn circuit requires +12v, if it does I need to install a relay to make this work, which is no big deal, I'd just like to know Dome light. Does my car have a pos or neg dome light system. Both require a relay, it would just be nice to know. I’m obviously not great at testing wires. Is this the “Dome Supervision” light on the wiring chart? I know this is a long post. I tried to think of everything I would need to know to avoid multiple posts. Hopefully someone can help me out. I appreciate any info, regarding these specific questions or otherwise. If allowed on this forum I’ll write up what I did for the complete installation when I’m through and it works. Hopefully it’ll help others out. The wiring document is good to have, and I bought a Haynes Manual for how to get things apart and the wiring diagram, but those aren’t telling/solving everything Thanks in advance,Ron, Boston, 39 (wow, almost 40) Posted By: xscash Date Posted: March 12, 2006 at 8:17 AM ron do you know if this car has transponded key?
Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 12, 2006 at 9:22 AM Hello, No transponder. It's just a base model Posted By: Mike M2 Date Posted: March 12, 2006 at 9:46 AM
------------- Mike M2 Tech Manager CS Dealer Services Posted By: Mike M2 Date Posted: March 12, 2006 at 9:52 AM You can use the GREEN/ red supervision wire as door trigger if you wish, it will have a 3 second delay. It won't have a trunk pop wire if it doesn't have factory keyless entry. The horn wire is a negative GREEN/ black at the steering column, doesn't need a relay. The blue unlock wire will unlock the drivers door with the first pulse, and all the other doors with a second pulse.
------------- Mike M2 Tech Manager CS Dealer Services Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 12:37 AM *Note – I unhooked battery to keep airbags from popping and have many plugs unplugged ie. Instrument panel/ radio/ heater so I can run wires and see where I have available space for system brain/ relays/ modules, so testing wires for + or – isn’t readily do-able Looking over everything I come to the following conclusions On My Crimestopper 2016FM there is a 9 pin plug ORG/BLK OEM Disarm ORG/BLK NOT NEEDED (?) - I have no factory alarm or keyless entry ORANGE NEEDED w/RELAY - Goes to relay that cuts starter wire Effectively this is the kill BLU/WHT HOPEFULLY NOT NEEDED - Hopefully all doors will unlock with a single push of BLU/BLK NOT NEEDED (?) - Grounds while remote starting for use when factory security GRN/RED NOT NEEDED - For trunk release/button 3 momentary press. Also disables radio BLK/WHT NEEDED/WANTED - Use w/relay for dome light to come on w/disarm (arm?) BRN/WHT NEEDED/WANTED – I believe this honks horn in addition to siren. If 12+ is BROWN NEEDED - No brainer GREEN NEEDED – This is what triggers the remote start sequence ? There is also a 3 PIN PLUG WHT/RED TACH INPUT WHT/RED NOT NEEDED? Unit is capable of tachless and I think I went that route with my BLACK NEEDED - No Brainer WHITE NEEDED – Connects to parking light switch. Unit has jumper for either 12v + or – There is a 5 PIN PLUG VIOLET + Door Pin Switch Output VIOLET Either Violet or Green is used for door pin switch. Which one do I need? Does the GREEN Same as above 3 Pin Plug for DOOR LOCK/UNLOCK GREEN - LOCK / + UNLOCK GREEN NEEDED / NOT NEEDED? 06 Camry Base Model Posted By: Mike M2 Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 6:55 AM Your orange starter kill will cut the black.white starter wire. The blue white is needed, as it will take two pulses to unlock all doors. Tie this wire to the blue unlock wire and then both to the blue unlock wire in the drivers kick panel. This will give you 2 stage unlock. Yes, BLACK/ white thru a relay to the GREEN/ red coming from the key illumination ring at the column. BROWN / white doesn't need a relay, directly connect to GREEN/ black in the column. Green is not needed, that's for an external trigger for the RS. Use the green(not violet) wire for door trigger. You can either use independant triggers or just tie it to the GREEN/ red at the key illumination ring. It will work fine there and will be triggered by all doors. The blue trunk wire is easy, hook this to the green wire in the kick panel. It's the second harness forward from the door jamb, there's a white plug there. It's in that. This will cover the trunk for the alarm. As for the locks, green goes to blue / YELLOW in the car, blue goes to blue in the car(along with your blue/white 2nd unlock wire). These are found in the KP, the harness coming from the door. The red isn't needed. ------------- Mike M2 Tech Manager CS Dealer Services Posted By: Chris Luongo Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 8:41 AM I've done a LOT of Camrys---I'll try to read over your post and answer all your questions.
--Materials: I've used those squeeze-on "Scotchlok"-type connectors plenty of times, and haven't had one fail yet. Many other installers look down upon those connections, though. All that being said, you do have two issues-------1. Blue is the wrong size; that's for medium wires. For things like doorlocks, parking lights, and so forth, you need the red connectors. 2. You said you're trying to hide the install; it is difficult to hide Scotchloks. --Testing/Finding/Battery/Unplugging stuff: There's pretty much NO way you can figure out which BLACK / YELLOW is Ignition 2 and which is Starter 2..... without staring at the backside of the switch and referring to a factory Toyota wiring diagram, and even then, I wouldn't trust it. There are many other wires that share the same color with other, unrelated wires in the car. You'll find that there are a LOT of greens, GREEN / WHITEs, and GREEN/ blacks all over the place. The proper way to do it is to plug all that stuff back in, reconnect the battery, and properly TEST each and EVERY wire before you make a connection. --Domelight supervision: The Camry's domelight automatically comes on when you unlock the door, EXCEPT when the engine is running. As long as you can live with the domelight not coming on when the remote start is running, I wouldn't bother connecting domelight supervision at all. --Door trigger: There's an illumination ring around the ignition key cylinder; this lights up when any of the doors are opened. It's a small GREEN/ red wire in the ignition harness; I use that for door trigger. --Horn honk: GREEN/ black, tests as negative trigger when you blow the horn. Found either in the steering column wiring harness, or in a large plug at the bottom of the fuse box. No relay required. --Parking lights: Postive-trigger, green, in plug at bottom of fusebox. Also, negative-trigger, red, in steering column harness. Use either wire you want, just be sure to not forget to set that jumper accordingly. --Brake: GREEN / WHITE, in large plug at bottom of fusebox. (Make note that you can get + lights, horn, AND brake all at this one same place.) --Tach: I do hear that Crimestopper has a pretty good tachless mode. But you do already have the instrument cluster out already, right? At the cluster, there's one plug where almost all of the wires are white. TOP row of the plug; that's the row with the clip on it. CENTER of top row, right near the clip, you'll see that there are two pins that are sort of "equally centered", if I'm saying it right. They're just below the clip. One of those pins is empty; the other is tach. --Trunk trigger: In the kick panel, you have three plugs toward the front of the car; two plugs toward the rear. Trunkpin is green, in the lower-rear plug. --Locks: Again, in the kick panel, find those three plugs toward the front of the car. If you look at where the wires go, you can see that they're actually coming in from the door boot. Bottom plug, find the blue / YELLOW; it tests as ground when you TURN THE KEY in the driver's door to the lock position. Top plug, blue wire, is unlock; tests in the same way. Connect your Crimestopper's output to the blue / YELLOW. Connect your Crimestopper's driver-unlock AND passenger-unlock outputs to the blue wire...........The first pulse from the alarm opens the driver's door only; the second pulse opens all doors. P.S. Whereabouts in Boston are you? I'm on the North Shore. Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 8:50 AM Spectacular ! Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 15, 2006 at 1:28 PM Hi Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 15, 2006 at 1:37 PM Opps Posted By: Twelvoltz Date Posted: March 15, 2006 at 3:26 PM The ignition wires should not be connected to the starter wires.
To test for the horn wire, just hook your meter to the wire you suspect to be correct and press the horn button on the steering wheel. If it is the correct wire, it will show ground as you are activating the horn. Same should apply for the parking lights. Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 15, 2006 at 6:09 PM Im trying to figure out my answer by reading and making sense. Does this make sense. I have 1st starter wire cut, run through a relay with a diode in the socket (came with RS) etc. I understand that. I've done it before. On the 2nd starter wire. Can I just solder a wire to it, not cut it, and connect the other end of soldered on wire to the "starter output" wire on RS? or do I use a second relay and wire it exactly like the starter kill relay , but basically wouldnt that be the same as cutting starter wires 1&2 and splicing key side together on terminal 30 and also splice together starter side together at 87? I dont want to fry anything Thanks , Ron Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 8:13 AM Well, it appears I'm talking to myself now, but for anyone who may run into this, which I'm sure there will be many, it appears, though I could be wrong, that the 2nd starter wire goes to it's own relay. On this relay it appears that what is being switched is 12 volts, which is switched to the 2nd starter wire. These are terminals 87 and 30 respectively, 12 volt constant to terminal 87 and 2nd starter wire to terminal 30. When the coil is energized it pulls the connection closed and viola 12volts flows to the 2nd starter wire. What energises the coil is 12volts on one side and ground on the other. Terminal 85 connects to starter output wire of remote starter unit (and starter 1 wire) for the 12 volts, and terminal 86 goes to remote starters "ground out while running", negative. When you press the remote start button on your clicker 12 volts flow from starter output wire of remote starter unit to terminal 85 and terminal 86 goes to ground, energizing the coil and pulling the switch closed. If all the above is correct, then my biggest question is why does 85 connect to starter 1 wire at all. It seems that connection should be covered through the starter disable/anti-grind relay. But is all of the above correct I have searched and read for quite some time but the answers I found just didn't make sense to me. My friggin 98' 4-Runner starts just FINE without any stupid 2nd starter wire. Starts when it's below zero. Why do they just have to keep making things more complicated Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 8:17 AM Oh yeah, I forgot to ask... Terminal 85 connects to remote start output AND starter 1 wire, but does it connect to starter 1 wire BEFORE (key side) or AFTER (starter side) the cut I made for starter disable/anti-grind???
Posted By: Twelvoltz Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 8:42 AM OK, I read through this, and now I am partially lost myself. I am not really understanding what you are asking, so I will attempt it to reply and we will see if this is what you wanted to know.
As far as hooking up the second starter wire, I would connect it. It is there from the factory for a reason. Yes, just duplicate the wiring for the main starter wire. But do NOT combine the factory wires, use a seperate relay for each. The 85 connection on your starter kill relay would go to the switch side of the starter kill circuit. This is so that the relay is only drawing power (and disconnecting the circuit) while there is energy coming from the switch. Meaning that even though the starter kill is working, it is not drawing any power untill the key is in the start position. Hope this is what you were looking for. Posted By: rfh1234 Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 11:00 AM I believe I have the wiring for the 2 relays figured out. On the second starter wire relay, I understand why "starter output " from RS goes to terminal 85 but I was wondering why it continues to "starter 1" wire. Wouldn't that effectively bypass the starter disable relay ? |
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