Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 97 Sebring, Viper 560XV

Hello,

I am waiting on my Viper 560XV to arrive. I have been reading over the install manual, and i have it pretty well figured out. However, the one question I have is that I will also be installing a Glass Break Sensor (506T) module. Which wire does this hook into? I read the manual and it appears to hook into H1/7 Blue wire. That is fine, except that the H1/7 wire also appears to control the trunk release (AUX) function on this system. How is this possible??

Also, on the 506T module, it appears to have power/ground/and signal wires. Will I need to run separate power/ground or can this be taken from the 560VX module as well? Thanks in advance!

ED7

Could anyone link me to the directechs wiring sheet for my 1997 Chrysler Sebring Lxi coupe? I have the one from this site, but the directechs sheets have more information that I might find handy. Thanks so much in advance.

https://www.directechs.com/directwire/wire_body.asp?action=select&yr=2166&product=Remote Start

https://www.directechs.com/directwire/wire_body.asp?action=select&yr=2166&product=Security

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Ok thanks alot. This confirms what I was wondering. I can't find a place to trigger a "trunk-pop". My factory fob (when I had it) had a button to pop the trunk, but none of the diagrams I have found show a wire to trigger this. Can anyone help?

Ok I was wrong! There is no trunk button on the original remote. I will have to install a solenoid. Is it possible to put the solenoid cable in place and leave the original "lever" system working as well? I am not really interested in having the button installed for the solenoid, I will only use this with the alarm button. I want to still use the lever to open the trunk while inside the car. Thanks!

Also, once I get the release installed, will the alarm go off if I pop the trunk without disarming? I guess ideally I would like the trunk button on the remote (viper 560XV) to disarm the alarm, then open the trunk.

It looks like the trunk output on this alarm is -, so i will have to use a relay to power the solenoid since it will be expecting +, correct?

Sorry for all the questions, I am new to this.

Doesn't the Viper DisArm Factory with Trunk & Door Buttons

Hello,

I will be installing a Viper 560XV system that will require (from what I understand) at least 3 relays (trunk, dome light, and horn.) My question is, where should I get the 12V required for these relays? Should I use the same source for all the relays (ie, tap off the battery and then split it to the 3 relays?) Also, the manual kinda indicates that i will need relays to arm/disarm my factory alarm system (97 Chrysler Sebring Lxi). Does this sound right?

I normally will tap off of the 12V positive hot wire or wires feeding the ignition. Solder & tape the connections. Each relay should have its own fuse (sized correctly for the circuit its going to feed) within a few inches of the tap. I always try to find a place that is convenient & accessible to mount the relay(s) and arrange the wires in a neat fashion (usually run them along with an existing loom of wires and wire tie or tape them together after I'm done with all the wiring and have tested to make sure everything works correctly.
As far as needing relays to arm/disarm the security, it depends on the input/output of the R/S and whether or not they are the same as the polarity of the factory system in the car. You may (or may not) need to reverse polarity to make it work. See the diagrams on relays (reversing polarity) on this site for how to connect them.

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The Badger

Thanks alot! Yea I saw that the polarity that is output from the RS is the same as is needed to arm/disarm my factory system, but then it references a relay even for the (-) output, which is what it is by default?? Just a little confusing on that bit. Is there a place that sells a little box that can be mounted that has 4-5 fuse holders in it and will accept a wire and fuse it out to the outputs? I have seen these for car audio (distribution blocks) but don't want somethign that beefy! I just want an easy way to get back to the fuses if one blows without taking my dash apart again. Thanks again!

Whoa..didn't realized I replied to my own topic earlier about the relays instead of starting a new topic. Anway 2 questions remaining:

1. Does the viper alarm disarm automatically when I pop the trunk (AUX button)

2. What is the easiest way to go from the ignition wire (12V) to my 4 relays with fuses between. Is there a blade-fuse distribution block or something I can buy??

Oh and I guess 3. saw that the polarity that is output from the RS is the same as is needed to arm/disarm my factory system, but then it references a relay even for the (-) output, which is what it is by default??

Thanks!

Hello,

I am installing a Viper 560 in my 97 Sebring LXi. It has factory progressive door unlock built in (ie, works that way with the factory remote.) Will progressive door unlocking be as easy as just hooking up the unlock trigger from the Viper to the unlock wire in my Sebring? Thanks.

ED7

you have to find the driver unlock motor, cut the wire and put a relay into it.

then tahe the two pin door harness and take the unlock to the relay

the second unlock will go to power unlock in the car

Hrmm...this doesn't sound like what I have been reading. Why do I need to do this, again? And can you possibly draw a diagram for the relay wiring for me? Nothing pretty..can just be text. Thanks.

On some Newer Vehicles, a simple Negative Pulse will Unlock Driver Door First, then another Negative Pulse will Unlock the rest.
On your 97 Sebring, you will need a SPDT Relay to Unlock Driver Door First.

Find the Driver UNLOCK Motor Wire @ Relays, Kickpanel, or Door boot.
Cut wire in half
( Test for voltage by pressing Door Switch )
One half goes to Unlock Switch
One half goes to Actuator ( Motor )
SPDT Relay:
PIN 87 = 12 Volts ( + ) Constant
PIN 87a = wire from Door UnLock Switch
PIN 30 = wire to Actuator
PIN 85 = 1st Negative UnLock Output from Alarm
PIN 86 = Constant 12 volt ( + )

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Ok...i can do that. Is that all I need to get progressive unlocking working? Or does that only take care of the driver's door? I am having a hard time visualizing what is actually happening. Thanks for all the help, you guys really take care of the "newbs" here :)

Hello-

Me again..just trying to get all the wiring down on my car. I have a 97 Sebring LXi with a factory alarm system. I am installing a Viper 560XV in that car. I would like to disarm the factory alarm when I disarm the viper, and arm the factory when I arm the viper. It seems that there is a (-) wire for disarming and arming the system in my car (GREEN/ YELLOW arm, and GREEN / WHITE disarm). It also seems that there is a corresponding (-) wire on the viper for doing this (ltg/blk disarm, and G/W arm), however, the manual for the viper indicates that I will need to use a relay for this function. If my car wants (-) and the viper puts out (-), then why would I need a relay. Sorry this is obvious, but thanks for the help in advance!

Some Installers use Relays ( because it is recommended ), some wire direct.
Meter the Factory Arm/Disarm wire while turning the key in the driver door key cylinder.

Also, since you have Factory Alarm:

To unlock only the driver door on models with keyless entry, use BROWN / blue (-) at the relays behind the radio.....( if it's there )

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Ok so if I use my first unlock wire from the viper into the BROWN / blue (-) behind the radio to unlock the driver door, then use the 2nd unlock wire from the viper to the brown (-) wire this would give me progressive door unlocking without the relay?? Thanks

Only if it is there..........Meter wires first

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MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.

Just a quick question about the horn output on my car. The directed website shows my "Horn Trigger" wire as GREEN/ black (-). Is this simply a wire which is connected to a factory relay for horn output, ie can I connect it directly to the 200ma (-) horn output of my alarm? Thanks!

Hello,

I have a 97 SEbring LXi that I am prepping for an alarm which I am waiting to be shipped. Anway, it has some weirdness with the way the dome lights work and the trunk light. First the trunk:

It is intermittant. Sometimes it works great, sometimes it doesn't at all. I thought it was the switch, so I took the bulb out and metered the socket. 0v. I then disconnected the socket from the harness and metered the harness. 12V! Plugged the harness back into the socket, and 0V again. Tested the socket for a short, and it is fine. Not sure what is happening really?

2nd, the dome light. It too is intermittant. When I open the door, the 2 map lights on the rear-view should come on, and they don't sometimes. When this is happening, I can push the switch on the mirror to turn the lights on, and the still don't come on. This makes me think it might be a problem with the mirror, but then at the same time the lights in the kick-panels and behind the center console don't come on either. Any ideas?

Thanks!

More than likely the proble with the map lights is a bad door trigger. I've seen many times in sebrings and avengers of that year. You can get a new door pin switch pretty cheap from the dealer. As for the trunk problem that I'm not quite undersatanding

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Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer

YEa, but the door trigger does trigger the "open door" light on the dash. I think the problems have to all be related to each other as when the trunk light isn't working, neither is the map lights or the console lights. Its like they aren't getting power at that time or something? Is there a factory relay somewhere that drives the dome light circuit that I could possibly replace?? I have looked in the normal locations, but nothing is labled to make me think I found it. Thanks again!

Anyone know of a relay or something in the 97 sebring which drives the dome lights? Can't find a diagram anywhere...i have the chilton, but nothing on that circuit!

Hello,

I have installed a Viper 560XV into my 1997 Chrysler Sebring LXi. I don't think my Sebring has any passlock type system installed in it (ie, black molded key instead of grey). Anyway, it is all working except the remote start. The car will try and start 3 times but never does successfully. If I put the key in the ignition and turn it to the "ON" position, then hit the remote start, the car starts and stays running, BUT the viper doesn't know its running as it will try and start 2 more times (resulting in minimal starter grind.) Have I done something wrong, or do I need a bypass or something for this vehicle? Thanks in advance!!

It sounds like the car has sentry key. Is your key that works the vehicle gray?

As far as it trying to start while running(sorry..missed that the first time)...did the system confirm that it learned the tach? Or if you did a voltage sense, did you program the system to operate as voltage sense?

No the key is just a normal key with a black molded end on it. It is setup for tach sense, but how do I verify that it learned tach?

Start the car with the key, within 5 seconds hold the valet switch. The LED will light solid once tach is learned.

Sorry, yea I found that in the manual. Anyway, I tried this and the LED never comes on. How long should it take for it to learn tach? I have tried holding it down for 30 seconds, but nothing. I have verified that the valet button is properly hooked up (i can put it in valet mode using it:)) Thanks again.

Ah-ha..also..the vehicle wiring guide on this site says my tach wire should be BROWN, but the guide at directechs says it should be WHITE. Which one is correct??

What happens if the TACH wire isn't hooked up or is on the wrong wire? Thanks for any help, as I would like to get this resolved tomorrow.

Twelvoltz wrote:

Start the car with the key, within 5 seconds hold the valet switch. The LED will light solid once tach is learned.

A Quick Tip: Be sure and press and hold the valet switch within 5 seconds of turning the ignition key ON (not 5 seconds after starting the engine)!

That means you have to get the engine started, running at idle, and press the valet key all within 5 seconds of turning the ignition key on.

John L.

It will behave as you are saying it is behaving. If it is on the wrong wire, nothing should happen to the vehicle as this wire just monitors voltage (but I would strongly recommend hooking it to the correct wire).

You could use voltage sensing (you would have to set this option in the programming menu) but this is not the preferred method due to several factors, but the main one is long term reliability.

So if the TACH wire is hooked up incorrectly, then it could cause the remote starter to not work (obviously since it needs to see voltage to tell the car its running.) But, does this explain why it will stay running if the key is in the ON position, even though the system will still try and "restart" it 2 more times?

OK

With the key in the run position all of the correct wires are energized...so it will stay running.

It is really sounding to me as if you are not connected to the ignition wire. If the starter sees +12V on the ignition input it will keep the car running when you activate it...NOT run the starter again. You also mentioned that the system would not program the tach..."it does nothing"...the system uses the ignition wire to tell that you are trying to program it as well. Verify your ignition wires and get back to us.

I will have to get the dash apart again. Probably will be a few days now, but don't forget about me! I will report back soon. Thanks for all your help...oh and just to verify..this vehicle does not have a PASSLOCK type system, right??

Passlock is a GM antitheft device. Sentry is the Chrysler and if you do not have a gray key, you do not have Sentry.

Hello,

I have a 1997 Chrysler Sebring and a Viper 560XV system which has been "partially" installed. All wires are hooked up and unlock/lock, arm/disarm/ work fine. however the remote start does not work. It simply tries 3 times to start and never runs.

I would like someone to look at the install and fix the remote start portion. Everything else is fine, and my car has no "bypass" type system, so it has to be a wire missing or something like that. Thanks so much in advance!

ED7

It may be a wire missing, or it could be something else. First, why did the installer not complete the job? Second, you say that "All wires are hooked up", if this is indeed the case you may just need to learn the tach to the vehicle, or put it in voltage sensing mode and set the crank time. If the installer has it in voltage sense already you may just have to increase the length of time the starter is engaging. You can find the installation manual for your system here.

Hope this helps.

Well, my installer told me all wires were hooked up. I have not visually verified this. I thought it was a tach issue at the start too, but when I try and set the tach using the valet switch, I can never get it to do what it needs to (can't remember exactly what the light is supposed to do, but no matter how long I hold the switch the light never changes.) I have stated before, but if the key is in the car and in the ON position, the car will start remotely but the viper doesn't sense that its started so it will try 2 more times causing engine grind for the additional 2 times. I would just feel better if someone qualified would take a look at it and tell me whats going on. The guy who installed it may not have been as qualified as I thought (ie, I didn't take it to a certified shop or anything) Thanks again!

I would suggest trying it in voltage sensing mode, if you have attempted to program the tachometer and the led does not confirm that it has learned it, there may be a problem with the tachometer connection. If the system is in tach mode and the wire is not connected to a proper location then the system will behave as you have stated, if you try the voltage sensing mode the starter will only turn over for a preset amount of time and then monitor for voltage increases without the need for a tachometer connection. Voltage sensing is not as reliable as a tach connection, however it may get you going. If you read the manual for your unit it explains how to put the unit into voltage sensing mode, and how to adjust how long the starter runs (crank time).

There is a search feature at the top of this page that states "Find an Installer", you can use that page to try to find an installer in your area. That may be willing to take a look at it for you.

Hope this helps.

I will see if I can get it apart and take a look at it...hard to find much time with a 3 yr old and a pregnant wife! Thanks for the info!

You should not need to take it apart to change the programming options. All of the option changes are done via the same switch that you stated you had tried to learn the tach with. It should only take a couple of minutes to change the settings and give it a try (then back into the house to keep the wife happy posted_image

No I meant take it apart to check the wires for volt sense instead of tach (or are you saying that the wires should already be connected to use this feature, ie it uses one of the 12V wires) Thanks!!!

Yes, sorry about that if I did not make that part clear. You do not need the tachometer wire connection to do voltage sensing on that unit. The connections are already there (to the ignition harness) that monitor for the voltage changes, so you would just have to change the mode on the system (feature 3-2), adjust the crank time(feature 3-5), and I would recommend putting it into voltage sense low (feature 3-6).

Hope this helps.

I will give it a shot on lunch....not sure what to set the crank time on...im guessing it takes about .5 seconds to start...trial and error thing I would assume. Thanks for the help, I will keep you all posted (if you actually care!)!

Ok, just gave this a shot. Couldn't get into program menu. This made me think my valet switch was bad. So i tried to put it in valet mode with the switch. Worked fine. This made me think possibly the door trigger was bad...there in may lay the problem. I armed the system, then used my key to unlock it. Then opened the door. Nothing. Then i closed the door....voila...alarm began to go off. Now firstly, what does this indicate, how do i fix it. And secondly, would this cause a problem with remote start (ie, does the system think the door is open or something?) thanks so much, you are a great help to a newb like myself!

ED7

This is a new post based on one of my previous ones, but since it is a new issue, I opened a new post. Anwyay:

Ok, just tried to get into the programming meny on my Viper 560XV installed in my 1997 Chrysler Sebring Lxi. Couldn't get into program menu. This made me think my valet switch was bad. So i tried to put it in valet mode with the switch. Worked fine. This made me think possibly the door trigger was bad...there in may lay the problem. I armed the system, then used my key to unlock it. Then opened the door. Nothing. Then i closed the door....voila...alarm began to go off. Now firstly, what does this indicate, how do i fix it. And secondly, would this cause a problem with remote start (ie, does the system think the door is open or something?) thanks so much.

ED7

Your Door Trigger is a negative type trigger. Meaning it's Grounded when open, and open when closed. Get a multimeter and test your door trigger wire. Make sure you hooked it up to the (-) door trigger input on your alarm/RS.

Door Trigger RED / Green (-) Driver's Kick Panel

Please do not create a new topic about any part of this installation. Please continue in this thread.

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posted_image

the12volt • Support the12volt.com

Will do..sorry, didn't know the rule.

Here they are for future reference.

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posted_image

the12volt • Support the12volt.com

So if my car has a (-) door trigger, should I hook up (+) Door trigger input wire H1/6 or (-) Door trigger input wire H1/8 to my door switch wire. I assume it should be H1/8 right? And if my installer has hooked up the H1/6 wire would my alarm behave in this way (ie, set off when the door is closed rather than opened?) Thanks!

Your car uses a negative door/domelight trigger you would use the negative door trigger alarm input. Yes, your system would behave like that when you shut the door, if the wire you are on goes directly to the domelight and not through a module. It sounds to me that it is a little more likely that the door trigger is not connected and you set off the impact sensor when you closed the door. To this theory, and disprove that your installer used the H1/6 + input, you would be able to get into the programming menu with the door closed because the system would think the door is in fact open, the wire (trusting it does not run through a module) will show + when the door is closed.

Good Luck.

Yea still can't get into the menu with the door closed, but I CAN put it into Valet mode with the door closed, but I guess this doesn't have anything to do with the door trigger. I am going to try and open the door and just push the door switch with my finger as to not trigger the impact sensor and see what happens. More to come later!

Dammit...if you want something done right....anyway you were right. Door trigger must not be hooked up. I unlocked the door with the key (system armed) and then pressed the door switch with my finger, nothing. Slammed the door....alarm goes off! Guess I got some work ahead of me.

Did you pay the 'installer'? If you did, I would be calling him/her to fix the job.

No I didn't pay. He owed me a favor.....guess you get what you pay for, huh! Im not a stranger to wiring, just never have the time or the garage to do it. Guess I will open up the dash and check every wire :) Urghh.... :)