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Multiple Sirens Relay Problem

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74373
Printed Date: April 29, 2024 at 1:07 AM


Topic: Multiple Sirens Relay Problem

Posted By: 2gnt97gs
Subject: Multiple Sirens Relay Problem
Date Posted: March 12, 2006 at 8:35 PM

What Im trying to do it add two more sirens to my current Rattler 300 alarm.

From what I am told I need to wire in a relay if I want more then two sirens.

Anyways, I searched and found that I need to wire it in the following diagram....

87 = Constant 12 VDC fused

86 = Chassis ground

85 = From alarm output siren wire (+)
     and still goes to the original siren.

30 = To the two additional siren(s)(+) wires

Now the problem that Im having is that when the alarm is armed I hear nothing from the sirens, no chirp. But when disarmed I get the two chirps like normal. I figure that I need to wire in a diode to isolate the siren that is still on the original alarm output siren wire (+) but I tried that and still no arming chirp.

Can someone help me with my wiring problem?

Thanks.



Replies:

Posted By: rallysport
Date Posted: March 12, 2006 at 10:11 PM
you have pins 87 and 30 backwards, 30 should be the 12v constant fused

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Posted By: 2gnt97gs
Date Posted: March 12, 2006 at 11:32 PM
Yes the alarm is programed correctly.

If I remove the relay from the circuit, the original siren works perfectly just as it has for the last 5 years. If I then remove the original siren from the circuit, the two extra sirens and relay work perfectly.

I have armed and disarmed the alarm many many times now trying to figure it out and probably 1 out of 5 or 6 times it will actually chirp the single chirp to arm and it will always double chirp to disarm. So far it doesnt make sense to me.

What I am trying to accomplish is two extra sirens powered by the car battery and keep the original siren wired just as it was before so that if can be powered by the alarm and backup battery if needed.

Im just not sure if the signal for the armed chirp is strong enough to make the original siren chirp and operate the relay at the same time?

Thanks for the replies, I hope we can figure this out. It sounds so simple but yet frustrating.




Posted By: 2gnt97gs
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 7:17 AM
Great idea, so is all I have to change is the signal wire (from the siren to the relay) and just wire it to the door sensor output on the alarm?

If not then please explain in detail what I need to change so that those sirens come on during a breakin.

Thanks for your help.




Posted By: frydchkn
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 12:42 PM
if you hook it up to the door pin, ur aux sirens will only sound if the door is open




Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 2:34 PM
Seems strange that your alarm's siren output isn't enough to chirp when you just add another relay load to it, but if that's really the case, you could add a MOSFET transistor in between the siren output signal and the relay.
Then your original siren signal won't be affected, and you'll get your arming chirp, while being able to drive the relay for your aux sirens. All you'd need to add is a 10 cent BS170 transistor and 1N4001 diode to protect the transistor against the relay turn off voltage spike.




Posted By: xscash
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 5:15 PM

the reason its not chirpin' is because it mostlikely has soft chirp...this is too short of a pulse to engage the relay. the best way is to this is to add the relay to the siren  that is existing...without cutting the wire. this will allow the first siren to chirp and when alarm sounds the wire will energize and hold the relay engaging the extra siren. use a diode at the connection of the relay.

   XS





Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 10:48 PM
From his description, the siren driver signal isn't able to drive the siren and relay simultaneously, so the other option is to put the original siren on the relay output, with the alarm only needing to drive the relay.
Usually it's better to leave the original siren separate for a failsafe in case the relay fails, but in this case, running all the sirens off the relay would be the easy fix.






Posted By: 2gnt97gs
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 11:22 PM
I agree with you Dualsport, but the way I wanted it was so that the original siren is still apart of the original alarm circuit and the two extra sirens were powered by the car battery with a relay. That way if the power is cut then the original siren will still have backup power from the alarm backup battery and the other two sirens would suffer from the power being cut.

I agree with xscrash in that it is probably the fault of the chirp being too short to power both the siren and the relay but it isn't in soft chirp mode because I have cut the loop to make it louder.

Dualsport....would you mind explaining how to wire the transister into my circuit. I understand the diode portion of it and I know what a transister looks like.

So it would be wired it this order....original alarm siren circuit, then splice into that with a wire, then the transister, then the diode with the band facing the relay and then the relay. Since the transister has 3 wires how would that be incorporated inline on that siren output signal wire?

Thanks guys for all the help. I think we are very close in figuring out a solution. I will stop by Radio Shack tomorrow and pick up the transister so when Dualsport replies I can wire it up and see if it works.




Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: March 14, 2006 at 9:01 AM
This is a general setup you can use any time you have a low current drive signal driving a relay. The transistor works on voltage only, rather than current.
It won't load down the signal so you can leave the original connections to the main siren as is, and just tap off it.
The pulse duration isn't a problem for the relay, since you found that it worked when you disconnected the main siren; it's just that your alarm output doesn't provide enough current to drive the reactive load.
posted_image

Not sure if Radio Shack stocks the transistor, let me know if you have problems finding it- I usually get things from mouser.com or digikey.com, good if you want to stock up.




Posted By: xscash
Date Posted: March 14, 2006 at 11:26 AM

cutting the loop .....the loop is on the siren and would have no effect on the output of the alarm brain. i think a batt. back up siren would be better.....if some one can cut your siren wire now , then what good would a batt. back up do if its not inside the siren? check this out https://www.microalarm.com/pdf/catalog.pdf  pg.79 all sirens.

XS






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