Valet 712t, 1997 Dodge Ram 2500
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74420
Printed Date: May 12, 2024 at 3:51 AM
Topic: Valet 712t, 1997 Dodge Ram 2500
Posted By: rtm038
Subject: Valet 712t, 1997 Dodge Ram 2500
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 4:47 PM
Hello, I'm currently trying to install a Valet 712t keyless entry system into my 1997 Dodge Ram 2500 and I'm a little confused about the lock system. After doing some research here, I've learned that my truck has a 5-wire set-up because it has factory power locks, but was never fitted with the OEM keyless entry. Now, according the 5-wire relay drawing on this site, the relays are wired for constant 12vdc (87 and 30 posts) with a trigger (-) from the alarm system. However, on the Valet system, the output trigger is 12+VDC. If anyone has any help to offer, I'd greatly appreciate it.
Replies:
Posted By: xscash
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 4:56 PM
85 and 86 are coil leads an one needs pos. and the other neg. if your alarm outputs pos...then connect the other lead to neg. XS
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 5:52 PM
The 712T has it's own internal relays for door locking...you can wire this directly to your door locks without the need for extra relays.
Just compare the installation manual's information to this diagram.
Posted By: rtm038
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 8:40 PM
O.K......Should I tap the wires at the drivers door switch? Thanks, Ryan
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 13, 2006 at 8:59 PM
Driver's kick according to the sheet.
Posted By: rtm038
Date Posted: March 14, 2006 at 2:25 AM
I read that too about the kick panel, but I have (2) Orange and (2) Pink wires at the kick panel. If you move the switch the "Lock" position, 12VDC is at both Orange wires and the same goes for the (2) Pink wires when you move the switch to the "Unlock" position. Should I just splice both Orange wires into 1 wire, then hook it up to the controller and do the same for the "Unlock" wires?
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 14, 2006 at 6:41 AM
No, do not combine the wires.
You should see a ORANGE / purple and a pink/purple in the kick at a lt. blue plug. You are going to have to cut both and on each one connect the side that goes to the switch to 87a and the side that goes to the motor to 30.
Splicing the wires together is NOT what you want to do.
Posted By: rtm038
Date Posted: March 14, 2006 at 3:07 PM
Got it figured out.......Thanks!! After looking under the dash again today, I noticed I made a mistake in the wire colors. There are (2) Orange and (2) Pink on that connector, but (1) of the Orange and (1) of the Pink wires have a black tracer, which at first looked like Violet. Anyway, I did a quick test run and everything works, so I just gotta make the final connections and that should be it. Thanks again for all the help......Ryan
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 14, 2006 at 3:13 PM
Glad to hear you got it all worked out!
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Installer, IT support, and FFL. I need less hobbies.
Posted By: rtm038
Date Posted: March 15, 2006 at 7:51 PM
Well, I spoke too soon. I have a new problem to figure out. Everything is hooked up and works properly when using the remote or the drivers side power door lock switch to lock and unlock the doors. However, when I tested the passenger door unlock/lock switch, the passenger side lock worked, but the drivers sounded "strained", only raised half-way, then the 20A power door fuse (in the trucks fuse box) blew. Since the fuse didn't blow out immediately, I don't think its shorting to ground, but you never know. I've double checked the wires and everything looks right and to best of my knowledge, the passenger side power lock switch worked properly before beginning the install. Any ideas?
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 15, 2006 at 8:00 PM
If you would post exactly which wire you put to which connection, then we may be able to shed some light on this.
Posted By: rtm038
Date Posted: March 15, 2006 at 8:29 PM
O.K. Here is how it is wired. GREEN/ Black (Lock #30 Common output) to ORANGE / Violet (from lock) WHITE/ Black (Lock #87 Normally closed) to ORANGE / Violet (from switch) Blue/Black (Unlock 30 Common output) to Pink/Violet (from lock) BROWN / Black (Unlock 87a Normally closed) to Pink/Violet (from switch) I haven't hooked everything up just yet, just the the lock wires. I still have to hook up the parking light flash output, dome light supervision wires, LED etc. For a ground I used the knee bolsters steel framing, which has always provided a good grounding source for other electrical add-ons. Could this be the problem? What I can't figure out is that the drivers side switch works perfectly and the because the factory wires are routed through the unlock and lock relays N/C contacts, it should almost be like the wires were never spliced in the first place, but maybe I'm wrong. Any help would be great.
Posted By: rtm038
Date Posted: March 15, 2006 at 8:46 PM
Oh yeah, one other thing I noticed. When you use the passenger side door lock switch to lock the doors, both lock perfectly normal.
Posted By: rtm038
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 1:47 PM
O.K.......problem solved. I originally taped the Pink/Black instead of the Pink/Violet wire under the dash and that was the problem. Its hard to tell the difference between the black and violet tracers under there, especially since they were already hacked-up from the previous install. Thanks again....
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: March 16, 2006 at 2:43 PM
Good to hear you have it straightened out!
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