Print Page | Close Window

Electrical Problems

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=74657
Printed Date: April 27, 2024 at 8:52 AM


Topic: Electrical Problems

Posted By: rfh1234
Subject: Electrical Problems
Date Posted: March 17, 2006 at 6:47 PM

Hi

I just finished hooking up a RS/Alarm system. I had battery cables off during all wiring so I wouldn’t accidently short anything out. Before I reconnected battery cables and tested new system I wanted to make sure car was still functioning normally . So I unplugged all wire harnesses from RS/Alarm system, then I reconnected the battery. 

First thing I noticed wrong was the windshield wipers were on even with switch in off position. Next, the headlights were on even with key not in ignition, even when I unplugged harness at headlight/parking light switch. The only time they went off was when I turned car on. Finally, the door locks would not lock the doors. They would lock, then immediately unlock when I let go off button.  Oh, the airbag light was on and domelight did not work either manually or through door opening.

The car still started, heat worked, blinkers etc

When I pulled the windshield wiper harness, the windshield wipers went off, but headlights stayed on regardless if harness was connected to switch. The biggest problem came when I tried the passenger door lock/unlock switch. Then the car went mostly dead. I doesn’t start anymore, the door locks, horn don’t work. I checked fuses in engine compartment and under dash, but none were blown

I don’t understand as I had no alarm wires plugged into the alarm system. They were just spliced. Basically my splices were just dead ends while unplugged from system. What could’ve caused this, how, and what do I do now

Thanks for any help

 

The car is an 06 Camry base model. The door locks were attached at DKP. The flahing lights at light switch on steering column. The horn at switch. Brake light at switch. Door trigger at key ring light

 

I’m going to look for answers on the forum now, but if anyone can help, I’ll be checking often to see if any posts were left. I just don’t get it as battery was disconnected through entire hook-up process and all harnesses were unplgged from system prior to battery reconnection just to recheck the vehicle before proceeding. What could’ve possibly happened. The only thing that I didn’t unhook were the relays, but they got no signals from brain cause brain was completely unhooked



Replies:

Posted By: rfh1234
Date Posted: March 17, 2006 at 8:00 PM

Hi

Sorry about the "Word" post. When I tried to preview post it wouldn't come up in seperate window, so I just hit send. Nothing is going smooth today

I just finished hooking up a RS/Alarm system. I had battery cables off during all wiring so I wouldn’t accidently short anything out. Before I reconnected battery cables and tested new system I wanted to make sure car was still functioning normally . So I unplugged all wire harnesses from RS/Alarm system, the n I reconnected the battery. First thing that was wrong was windshield wipers were on even with switch in off position. Next, the headlights were on even with key not in ignition, even when I unplugged harness at headlight/parking light switch. The only time they went off was when I turned car on. Finally, the door locks would not lock the doors. They would lock, then immediately unlock when I let go off button.  Oh, and the airbag light was on and domelight did not work. The car still started When I pulled the windshield wiper harness, the windshield wipers went off, but headlights stayed on regardless if harness was connected to switch. The biggest problem came when I tried the passenger door lock/unlock switch. Then the car went mostly dead. I doesn’t start anymore, the door locks, horn don’t work. I checked fuses in engine compartment and under dash, but none were blown I don’t understand as I had no alarm wires plugged into the alarm system. They were just spliced. Basically my splices were just dead ends while unplugged from system. What could’ve caused this, how, and what do I do now
Thanks for any help

The car is an 06 Camry base model. The door locks were attached at DKP. The flahing lights at light switch on steering column. The horn at switch. Brake light at switch. Door trigger at key ring light

I’m going to look for answers on the forum now, but if anyone can help, I’ll be checking often to see if any posts were left. I just don’t get it as battery was disconnected through entire hook-up process and all harnesses were unplgged from system prior to battery reconnection just to recheck the vehicle before proceeding. What could’ve possibly happened. The only thing that I didn’t unhook were the relays, but they got no signals from brain cause brain was completely unhooked





Posted By: rfh1234
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 6:42 AM
Wow, 54 people have read this post and not one response other than me rewriting the post in notepad format. I am so screwed right now. I have no clue where to even start looking. The alarm is out of car now. Still have the same problems. Cant find a blown fuse, so I'm beginning to think this is not going to be something small and easily corrected. I really need some help here. Please respond




Posted By: Powermyster
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 11:33 AM
did you test your connections with the battery connected.

list the wires that you connected too. did you remove any harnesses if so did you put them back right and also is your battery connected 100%

-------------
Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power




Posted By: rfh1234
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 2:17 PM

I unhooked battery

I made all alarm connections (except for IGN2 & Starter 2, they were both BLK/YLW and I needed to test them before conecting)

Before testing the alarm, I figured I'd double check the car with no alarm to be sure it was functioning properly, plus I still needed to test the two BLK/YLW wires at ignition switch to identify them. So, I disconnected all plugs at alarms "brain", essentially creating a bunch of dead ends that shouldn't affect the car adversely when I hooked up battery even if some of them were possibly tied ionto the wrong things.

I reconnected battery

That is when things got strange as explained above

Wires I connected were 
GRN from alarm (door lock) to blue / YELLOW, bottom plug, kick panel
BLU & BLU/WHT from alarm (unlock and passenger doors unlock) to BLU wire, top plug, kick panel
Thin WHT from alarm (brake light) to GRN/WHT at brake light switch
Thick WHT from alarm (flashing lights) to red wire, steering column, light switch
BRN/WHT from alarm (horn) to GRN/BLK, steering column, horn switch
GRN from alarm (door trigger) to GRN/RED steering column, key light switch
Terminal 85, relay (dome light) to steering column, key light switch

The rest were all connected to ignition switch wires, which, like everything else (except the relays) went into a plug at the alarm that I unplugged prior to reconnecting the battery or they were closed circuits, like the shock sensor/LED/ pushbutton etc

I have since removed COMPLETE alarm/rs system. ALL wires have been disconnected from vehicle. Everything that came in the box is back in the box. There is not 1 single thing left in the car that is any part of the alarm. Yet it still is not right at all. All car connectors/plugs are connected. All fuses, even the big square ones are good. As I was disconnecting wires, I looked at each area carefully to see if any other wires were nicked/shorted/unplugged etc, but found nothing. Everything is back to original. All previously spliced wired are taped up good, but still its not working right. Headlights stay on even with key removed, high beam & low beam. I have to keep neg battery terminal disconnected just to not drain the battery .         WTF?





Posted By: mo12v
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 2:44 PM
Be sure ALL Plugs that you Unpluged or even pulled on are in correctly and that NO Terminal is bent or broken..................( easy to break )

-------------
MO

Don't Learn from Others Mistakes
You Might Be the One That Knows.




Posted By: xscash
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 3:36 PM

ok first off....you shouldnt  remove batt and just connect wires because a paper somewhere says that a red with a blue stip is power.  test everything and allways assume the paper is wrong.

have you checked for peirced wire harness where you may have used a self tapper for a ground? did you use a test light or meter to check fuses?





Posted By: rfh1234
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 6:18 PM

I removed fuses and looked at them. Didnt see any blown. I didnt use a self tapping screw for ground but an existing nut/bolt. I charged battery, removed alarm system completely, taped up wires good, put car in original condition and now the problems are less

With no key in ignition the folowing things happen:

   Headlights stay on

   The light that surrounds the "P" for "park" stays on (though pretty dim)

   The oil light is on, (though pretty dim)

When I start car, the following happens

   Headlights go out (and won't come on using switch)

   The gear shifter light around the "P" gets bright/normal and changes as 
       you change gears

   The "oil" light goes out  

   The "airbag" light comes on

   Windshield wipers come on regardless of switch position, the only way
       to turn them off is to pull harness from switch. They will go from high to
       low speed, but not off and not interval

But... power door locks now work fine as do the blinkers, hazrds, heat controls, radio, windows, rear defrost, clock, passenger airbag on/off light etc

Mostly everything... I could probably even reset airbag with my OBDII tool

It seems like the headlights are working exactly the opposite of how they should

Any help would be appreciated. I dont know what else to do. Yesterday everything died, today most came back. It was great to have the car start and mostly work, but I don't know where to look now. Like I said, I took out everything I did, taped it up good and checked carefully that nothing was unplugged, cut, had exposed wires etc. I'm stumped





Posted By: ziggyb222
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 6:33 PM
That thick white wire you connected to the red wire in the colume for the lights, What was the White wire from the alarm..positive or neg.????




Posted By: xscash
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 6:57 PM
ziggy ...that would of pop a fuse. fixed that on a friends car who tried to insall one himself.  but great idea.




Posted By: ziggyb222
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 7:08 PM

Seems a though all of the issues you are having stem from the steering colume.. the wipers and lights. Are the lights and wipers on the same stick control?  If so, the problem might be right in that assembly..





Posted By: NowYaKnow
Date Posted: March 18, 2006 at 9:35 PM
Seems like most of the suggestions here are on point. The red park light wire at the steering column is negative. If you hooked up the positive output from the module to it, you fried something.

Aside from that making sure all the plugs are all the way in and the grounds are tight would be all I would look for.

Good luck,

Mike




Posted By: floaterr
Date Posted: March 19, 2006 at 1:37 AM
Possible for some reason that ground was pulled through on of the ECU's pos wires and fried it. I've done this on alarms before and the things just acted freaky and random. Kinda like lightning damage. Sometimes it obvoius, sometimes it random.

Hopefully it's just a bad ground (dim lights) or connector. Pull the column apart and double check..

**Also check all fuses with meter. You might have a "high resistane open", or basically a mostly open circuit (fuse) that passes enough current to kinda power up things. Starving (current limiting) the ECU..

Good luck




Posted By: rfh1234
Date Posted: March 19, 2006 at 7:41 AM
The thick white wire had a jumper for either neg. or pos. It wasn't even plugged into alarm brain. Nothing was actually plugged into alarm brain. So no power ever went into alarm and out into the wires that are hooked up. I made all connections, but did not plug anything into alarm. I wanted to check status of vehicle and make sure everything was still normal before plugging things into alarm and proceeding.  I appreciate that people are responding. It makes me feel like at least I'm not completely on my own. Thanks. And any other ideas would be greatly appreciated




Posted By: kohara73
Date Posted: March 19, 2006 at 9:04 AM
Now that things are working "better" than they were before, have you tried a reset with the scan tool?  Does the car have daytime running lights?  It almost sounds as if one of your igniton wires is getting power when it's not supposed to.  I would meter them also to see if either one is live all the time.

-------------
Keith




Posted By: rfh1234
Date Posted: March 19, 2006 at 9:15 AM

Yes car has daytime running lights and it does seem as if some things are getting power when they shouldn't. I just dont know how. Nothing can be crossed or anything. As I took out all traces of alarm system yesterday I looked closely at everything to see if something got crossed somewhere but found nothing. I carefully taped all bare portions wires etc. I am currently looking for the directions for my OBDII. I hardly ever use it and don't remember exactly how it works, plus the book has all the codes in it 

If worse comes to worse I'll take it to dealer and see if I can pass it off as something that just "happened" I've taped everything up etc. It looks like nobody was messing around. Actually, when I took a close look at the factory wiring job, it looks pretty hack, just electrical tape etc and not even a nice job of wrapping it. Maybe I can catch a break and get someone who doesn't investigate too far, but rather just hooks it to computer, finds problem and fixes it






Print Page | Close Window