Printer Friendly Forum Posts - UK Civic and Toad Ai606

Hi Guys, I am installing a Toad Ai606 in a UK 98 Civic 1.8, all going well except for the power door locks. The car has factory keyless entry, which is functioning fine still. From what I have read here and on other forums Hondas use (-) pulse signal to drive the power door locks.

The first diagram is from the alarm installer manual and this is the configuration I am trying to use. The second is from the Honda service manual. The red and blue dots are where I thought I should be connecting to, but it is not working. The alarm is outputting neg when I arm and disarm the alarm, but I am obviously not connecting to the keyless entry system correctly. Any pointers greatly appreciated.

Thanks, John

https://www.clubi.ie/bpl/Integra/Toad/toaddoorlockdiagram.jpg

https://www.clubi.ie/bpl/Integra/Toad/civicmanualdoorlockdiagram.jpg

if your doing it in a civic why look at integra diagrams..

anywho you have to make the connections in the drivers door on the civic. the control unit is in there.. test your wires.

i forget the colours whe you have them cut them and attach your keyless to the control unit side of what you have cut.

presto.

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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power

The diagram is for a Civic, I just have them saved in my Integra FTP :)

I have been wiring up to the keyless entry contol unit which is behind the ashtray in the centre console in the UK civic. Here are some pictures. I have also posted a pic of the 5 wire connector in the drivers door. I am starting to think that using the 5 wire diagram on this site with the relays is the way I will need to go, as direct wiring does not seem to be working in this car?!? Any ideas how I can get this sorted? Thanks!

posted_image

how are you testing, are you probing the wires and locking and unlocking the doors to see what ones go neg?

is it a GREEN/ red wire with siver rings you have been taping into

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i am also a technician so if you have any engine trouble let me know, and i will do my best to help.

Yes, that is how I have been testing, I was wiring into the WHITE/ RED (PIN B1) and the YELLOW/RED (PIN B3) on the control unit behind the centre console, but it did not seem to be triggering the locking/unlocking. I was looking for GREEN/ red wire with siver rings as I saw that mentioned on lots of other installs but couldnt find it on this car.

Only thing that I can think of is that the temporary ground that I had attached the RED / BLK and RED / YEL of the Toad alarm to was not very well secured, I had just pinched the wires under a bolt on the centre console, it was showing ground on the voltmeter but may not have been solid enough to allow the alarm to pick up a good negative pulse, could that be it? The outputs from the alarm were also showing the negative pulse when arming and disarming the alarm when I tested them with the volt meter so I presumed it was ok.

I had just stripped back some of the wire and soldered the BLU/RED from alarm to the YEL/RED on the car and GRY/RED from alarm to the WHT/RED on the car in, I presume that is right as that is what I am understanding from the diagrams.

forget touching the alarm wires to the control moduel for now, just use a bit of wire and hook it to a good ground point and pulse the suspected wires and see if the car locks/ unlocks. also do the doors need to be closed for the mechanism to be moved by the motor when testing? if so test with the doors closed or push the latches in on the door

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i am also a technician so if you have any engine trouble let me know, and i will do my best to help.

Cheers Joe, I considered the need to have the doors closed but the factory keyless entry still locks with the doors open, but even so I pushed the latch but it did not make any difference.

I didnt think of probing around with a grounded wire! doh! - I will try that again. It will probably be a few days before I get back at the car as I am back at work tomorrow, but if you think of anything else in the mean time, or anyone else has anything to add please do.

If I cant find a way around it after that I will probably just chuck an aftermarket actuator in the drivers door and use that. Thanks!

no worries, there should be no reason why it dont work, it was probably what you said about your wires not being ground properly, let us know how it goes,

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i am also a technician so if you have any engine trouble let me know, and i will do my best to help.

i had this problem before and had to go into the door

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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power

Ok I came home from work a bit early and had another bash at the locks. I didnt get too far though.
In the drivers door at the 5 wire connector I probed all connections with a solidly grounded wire. (With the door closed just in case it matters). But I got nothing happening on any wire.
There are 5 wires in the connector. The tests I conducted were done locking and unlocking the door with the door pin on the inside of the door.

posted_image

After doing that I decided to go probing around with a 12V but again did not get anything to lock/unlock
Where to from here?

its in the door behind the membrane there should be the locking control unit is the there.

if so that where i got my connections but you have to cut the wires and pulse neg into the control unit..

if you don't cut the wires nothing will happen. as far as i remember its an alternating system.

i.e. when the door is locked the unlock wire shows 12v constant and when its touched with a neg it turns to a constant neg and door unlocks.

if the w5 wires above are the only ones going to the unit.. go with the 2 thin ones. just cut one and pulse it neg on the control unit side.

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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power

The locking control unit is actually in the centre console behind the ashtray on the 5 door, so the wiring is more accessible either in the door our under the dash as the unti is so burried away.

If I understand you correctly the following diagram is what I should be doing, can you confirm that I am taking you up right. What I am doing here is disconnecting the wiring from the door lock that is usually triggered using the key. https://www.clubi.ie/bpl/Integra/Toad/solution.jpg

yes thats what i had to do with the civic i done. it was an irish car '99 1.4 saloon. i thought that the wiring would be the same obviously not.

as the control unit was in the drivers door on the one i done.

i had to cut the wires to get it to work. DEI also lists a 1 wire system for the same shape. but i've never come across it

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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power

Thanks Darren, I will try that and let you know how I get on.

No problem hope it works out for ya..

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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power

i just looked at the car diagram again. the two i suggesting cutting have you tried to interface with them without cutting. the schematic show no reason why it wouldn't work without cutting. unless the schematic is wrong

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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power

Or you could cheat slightly, as its a real pain to get wires from the pillar to the door:

Take the drivers door panel off and REMOVE the factory locking module. Pick up the White red and Yellow red wires in the drivers kickpanel. Wire the alarm for door motors and connect into the cars own central locking system. This means that the car will have full locking from the remote but none from the key. It probably wont really matter to be honest as most people can live with that.

Powermyster I had tried probing the wires with a grounded wire but it did not trip the locking. I had not tried interfacing them with the alarm as back then I thought it was the YEL/RED and WHT/RED that I needed and these I had connected to the alarm, I will try interfacing to them before I cut them and see if that works.

Evolution-UK, good idea, it would make it easier than trying to get the wires into the door. In any event, once I have it figured out I will see what makes the best sense at the time. I can hopefully find the wires under the dash once I know which ones are working for me.

Thanks a million guys, I really appreciate the help.

John

i got another idea why dont you cut the wires that drive the motor from the control moduel, now do the setup from the toad alarm locking page to drive the motor idependant, leave the other wires connected as they will operate the oem moduel for the other locks to work, this will def work, good luck

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i am also a technician so if you have any engine trouble let me know, and i will do my best to help.