96 Corolla, Clifford Matrix 3.5
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=76158
Printed Date: July 15, 2025 at 7:58 AM
Topic: 96 Corolla, Clifford Matrix 3.5
Posted By: firebert
Subject: 96 Corolla, Clifford Matrix 3.5
Date Posted: February 07, 2006 at 2:18 AM
Hello all, it has been a while since I've done a alarm install. I apoligise in advice for my newbieish question but.. I recently purchased a Matrix RSX 3.5 and I noticed these new fangled alarm system had three wires for 12V constant. I understand one is for the brain unit and the other is for remote start but whats the 3rd? On my old alarm system where there is only one 12V constant I simply hooked it up to the 12V constant on my vehicle's ignition harness, but hooking up three high current 30A fused on the ignition harness seem to be excessive. Should I run them directly to the battery instead?
Replies:
Posted By: Powermyster
Date Posted: February 07, 2006 at 3:08 AM
iusually run the heavy guages direct to th battery
it is normal to have 3 constant 12v, 2 for remote starter
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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power
Posted By: mrcllusb
Date Posted: February 07, 2006 at 3:51 AM
YEAH,i have the same issue.My alarm has 1-20 amp and 1-5amp.My remote starter has 2-30amps and 1-5amp.So it's okay to to run the 1-20 amp and the 2-5amps to the ignition,and the 2-30amps for the remote start directly to the battery??
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"ole blake"
Posted By: OhioMike1101
Date Posted: February 07, 2006 at 6:39 AM
usually one is for remote start, one for alarm, and one is for the built in relays like park lights etc...
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South Side Audio
2501 S. High St
Columbus, OH 43207
Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: February 07, 2006 at 6:42 AM
You don't need to go to the battery in most cases. Reality is the remote start is only going to need as much amperage as what the car manufactor gave you at the ignition switch to begin with. Just because the remote start has a few 30a fuses inline doesn't mean it's gonna neeed that much, it's just a maximum the unit will handle. If the cars 12v line to the switch is only rated at 20a, there's no way the remote start is going to need anymore than that(with the exception of light flash). The reason for multiple 12v lines on your remote start satalite is that some cars have multiple 12v feeds to the switch, and this lets you divide amperage to separate sources just like the car manufactor did. ------------- Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services
Posted By: mrcllusb
Date Posted: February 07, 2006 at 8:29 AM
Okay thanks..I'll take everything to the ignition then...
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"ole blake"
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 11, 2006 at 7:43 AM
Hello all.. I have a few pretty straight forward question, I have already searched with no results. I will be installing my Matrix 3.5 today along with a few accessories; 513t piezo siren, 530t windows module, & 522t trunk popper solenoid. My question is if I need to use a relay to drive these accessories? I read these outputs can only supply a 200mA low current input (i'm not exactly sure how much current ea will be using).. The 513t piezo will be hooked up to the (-) horn output. The 530t windows will be hooked up to (- when alarm is armed) and (-) Channel 6. The 522t trunk will be hooked up to (-) Channel 2. Now I am certain the trunk solenoid would need a seperate relay (because it is shown on the install guide and mentioned specifically).. but what about the other two accessories/ three outputs? Also a seperate question about hooking up the piezo to the horn output.. I will program the brain to put out a constant output but will this output chirp the piezo (horn output) when arming/disarming (soft chirp)? because I would like to use a glass break sensor.
Posted By: OhioMike1101
Date Posted: April 11, 2006 at 8:16 AM
use a relay for trunk. diode isolate the GWA to the window module. I like to use a relay for mini piezos to make sure they are nice and loud.
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South Side Audio
2501 S. High St
Columbus, OH 43207
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 11, 2006 at 4:27 PM
Thanks! So it's not really necesary to use a relay for piezo but recommended right?
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 11, 2006 at 7:29 PM
Hello A simple question, is it necessary to use a diode to isolate GWA on newer alarms? I ask this question because it dosen't say anything on the install guide. I just took uninstalled my 10yr old Python 2button alarm system and noticed there were diodes on every GWA trigger, doors, trunk, etc.. is this necessary on newer alarms like the Matrix 3.5 or is it just a extra precaution?
Posted By: Powermyster
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 3:04 AM
piezo will need more than the 200mA
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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 4:44 AM
ok great, thanks guys! BTW do i need to use diodes on the trunk poper and piezo? For the windows, do I uses a diode on both Gnd when alarm is armed and channel 6?
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 5:18 AM
another question,, about using diodes on a ground switched diode for relays. is it necessary? Assuming pin 85 is connected directly to the battery and 86 to a (-) channel output. Would it be necessary to put a diode between the battery and the relay? I know the reason diodes are used is to redirect a energized pulse to ground and away from the switch, but in this case it is ground switched and the gnd can only handle 200mA..
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 8:04 AM
Forgive my ignorance, but GWA?
Diodes are used to prevent the flow of current. The door triggers will be diode isolated to prevent feedback to the BCM. I am not sure what you are asking here. If your vehicle requires it, then you would need them, or if there is a risk of a device feeding back into another you would need them.
Is this close to answering what your question was?
Keep us posted.
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 3:28 PM
Hello. is a diode necessary when using a relay across a ground switched relay? The +12V constant will be drawn directly from the battery but the (-) 200mA channel output will be turning the relay on and off. I know diodes are there to prevent votage spikes back to the switch and send it off to gnd, but the gnd IS the switch now and it can only take 200mA
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 4:37 PM
The diode is used to prevent current from flowing. If there is no risk of current flowing then there is no need for a diode.
Hope this helps.
Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 5:20 PM
The diode will help protect the (-)200ma output of the module driving it. If it is a transistor based output (which is likely at 200mA) then it is a good idea to put a diode across the coil to bleed off the current created by the collapsing magnetic field generated by the coil. Most electronics these days have the diodes built in, but it won't hurt anything to install them. ------------- Kevin Pierson
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 5:44 PM
Yeah, always good practice to put a diode across the coil if it's being driven by any electronic modules. If you're using a mechanical switch or something like that, you can dispense with the diode, since the voltage spike from the relay coil won't harm anything. Just make absolutely SURE you get the polarity correct when you hook it up though; or you'll end up blowing the very module you're trying to protect- (In your case, the diode goes across the coil's terminals 85 and 86, with the striped cathode end connected to your 12V supply, and the anode end connected to your control module side.)
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 11:04 PM
dualsport wrote:
(In your case, the diode goes across the coil's terminals 85 and 86, with the striped cathode end connected to your 12V supply, and the anode end connected to your control module side.)
and the diode goes before the relay on the + side right?
ie (+12V constant > Diode > Relay > - channel output/Brain )
or after
ie (+12V constant > Relay > Diode > - channel output/Brain ) oh i see so the diode help bleed off the voltage spike as well..
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 11:18 PM
Car: 96 Corolla
Alarm: Clifford Matrix 3.5 Is there a special method of wiring my alarm when I have a starter kill relay? the starter kill relay is wired as follows
pin 85 - (-) Gnd when alarm is Armed (orange)
pin 86 - (+) Accessories wire (blk / YELLOW)
pin 30 - Starter switch side (blk/wht)
pin 87A - Starter motor side (blk/wht) Now the satellite from the Matrix hook up between the starter wire as well.. do I just hook it up inline with the relay? Or parallel to it?
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: April 12, 2006 at 11:55 PM
Like this: 
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 13, 2006 at 12:41 AM
ahh got it.. thanks for the knowledge guys!
Posted By: Powermyster
Date Posted: April 13, 2006 at 3:30 AM
86 should be constant 12v.
hook your rs starter wire to the starter side of the starter kill relay
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Why oh Why didn't i take the blue pill
Darren Power
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 13, 2006 at 7:55 AM
Your car has only one starter wire. The Matrix 3.5 has built in starter kill so you do not need another relay. Cut the starter wire (BLACK/ white in 96 Corolla) hook the green to the key side, purple to the starter side and you should be good to go.
Hope this helps
Keep us posted.
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 13, 2006 at 2:38 PM
Twelvoltz wrote:
Your car has only one starter wire. The Matrix 3.5 has built in starter kill so you do not need another relay. Cut the starter wire (BLACK/ white in 96 Corolla) hook the green to the key side, purple to the starter side and you should be good to go.
Hope this helps
Keep us posted.
Really? I did not know it had a built in starter kill.. I dont see it mentioned on the description. I'll take your word for it.
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 13, 2006 at 2:41 PM
It does, hence the reason for green and purple wires coming from the xcrs, it provides starter kill and anti-grind (when remote started) functionality.
Keep us posted on your progress.
Posted By: firebert
Date Posted: April 13, 2006 at 10:26 PM
So I finally got my Clifford Matrix 3.5 into the '96 corolla. All alarm functions works fine except remote start!
I sat inside the car and toggled the remote start with the remote.. it ran through the start routine, ign clicked, volts gauge showed 12V from Acc wire(aftermarket volts gauge tapped into same T tab to acc wire), satellite relay clicked, but then absolurely nothing.. the starter motor didnt crank, the starter solenoid didnt even click. The car starts fine with key, and the build in starter kill works when alarm is armed I have checked
1) all 3 12V constants from satellite relay - I ran them directly to the battery by tieing them together with a 8AWG amp wire cable.. then went through the trouble of uncrimping all 3 and twisted them into another 8AWG +12 removed from my amp - definately not power 2)Satellite is wired as follows
Purple - Starter side output (BLACK/ wht)
Green - Key side starter output (blk/wht)
Orange- Acc wire (blk / YELLOW)
pink- primary ignition (blk/orange)
3)H3 5pin connector
Blk/Wht - neutral safty input directly to a toggle then to gnd - it works
viol/wht - directly to tach
brn-brake swt - brake lamp not on
gry- hoodpin.. hoodpin tested, alarm sounded when hood is open What else can it be?
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