Print Page | Close Window

2002 Silverado, remote start and 55LW

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=77028
Printed Date: May 05, 2025 at 10:32 AM


Topic: 2002 Silverado, remote start and 55LW

Posted By: orangezcar
Subject: 2002 Silverado, remote start and 55LW
Date Posted: April 29, 2006 at 8:19 PM

Hi,
I've read through most of the forums looking for information on the DEI 55lw bypass module and haven't found anything close to my situation. I am in process of installing a DesignTech Ready Remote Deluxe starter in my 2002 Silverado and am using a DEI 55LW to bypass the passlock II system. I've made all the connections, except for the BLUE status wire that comes off the 555LW. I tried connecting it to the "Key Sensor" wire in the ignition harness as well as leaving it alone. The car cranks almost starts then dies.
I think it is the bypass that is causing the issue. Where am I suppose to connect this BLUE wire off the 555LW? The directions say to connect it to the BLACK/ blue or Blue status wire coming off the starter. There isn't a status wire. Would grounding this wire do it?
I would appreciate any help. I told my wife when she gave this to me, that I have done this before and it is a pain to install. I've spent over 8 hours trying to work on it today alone.
Thanks,
Tony



Replies:

Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 29, 2006 at 9:37 PM
First, can you start the truck with the key? If you cannot, leave the key in the switch turned to the run position and leave it on for ten minutes. This will reset the passlock system, allow the vehicle to start, and allow you to continue with the installation.


DEI calls their negative when activated output a 'status output' this wire provides a low current negative when the remote starter is activated. Your designtech system should have a wire that behaves in the same fashion, you would use that. Since you did not make mention of the model number of your system I could not look up your exact model, however I noticed on a few manuals that their is an 'ingition 3' low power output that you could use to the blue wire of the 555lw. You cannot just ground the wire, because this would cause the 555lw to be on at all times.

Hope this helps.




Posted By: orangezcar
Date Posted: April 29, 2006 at 10:08 PM
thanks for the input. I can start the truck with the key. That's why i think it must be a passlock issue. I keep getting a 6 code on the diagnostics. Though at times I was getting a 3 code too.

I am installing the Deluxe Ready Remote from Designtech # 23927. The Silverado doesn't have an ignition 3 wire. I tired a couple of different configurations with the BLUE wire. I really appreciate your help.

Tony




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: April 30, 2006 at 6:41 AM
I think you misunderstood, the ignition 3 output I was referring to is an output from the remote starter that provides a low current negative output while the remote starter is operating. On your 23927 that wire is a BLACK/ white. Take a look at your manual, read the description for this wire, it is number 16 on page 4 and described in better detail on page 6 section 3. This wire is the recommended output for controlling a factory anti-theft bypass module. Hook it to your blue wire.




Posted By: orangezcar
Date Posted: April 30, 2006 at 7:19 AM
Thanks, I can't tell you how many times I read and reread the instructions looking for something that I missed. I'll try that. My dash is completely apart right now and I need my truck for work tomorrow.

Tony




Posted By: orangezcar
Date Posted: April 30, 2006 at 7:58 AM
Hi,
I just tried connecting the two wires. I checked all the other connections, and reinitialized the unit. It won't start still. Engine cranks, seems to turn over then dies. I get the same code. 6 flashes. On page 21 and on page 1 of the trouble shooting guide there are descriptions of what the issue could be. Could it be low battery voltage? How do I check for that? I have the switches inside the unit set for Ign #2 to be on, Tach is off, Gear is off too.
Not sure how to connect to the Tach if I had to. I tried looking under the hood for the EMC but had troouble locating it.
Thanks,
Tony




Posted By: orangezcar
Date Posted: April 30, 2006 at 5:09 PM
Hi,
I looked over all the wiring again and tested with the multitester. I believe I have the right wires, except for the Pink wire coming from the 555LW. It says to connect it to the large guage pink wire coming from the Direct remote starter that connects to the main ignition. On the DesignTech remote starter the wire that connects to the main ignition ( I assume is ignition 1) is a blue wire. I am getting hte same result no matter what I try. Car cranks, almost starts then dies. I used the multi on the battery, registering more then 12 V. I can still start the car with the key. After every attempt I start the car with the key, to let the 555LW relearn the code too. This is driving me nuts. I may end up ripping out all the work that I done to this thing.
I appreciate your help more then you can imagine.
Tony




Posted By: orangezcar
Date Posted: April 30, 2006 at 8:44 PM
Hi,
After doing many searches in the forums, I went back out to the truck and noticed acouple of things that might help;
1. the security light on the dash blinks after the truck tries to start. In between start tries the battery light is on display. I believe this means that the 555LW isn;t bypassing the Passlock II. Seems to be connected correctly though... I've checked all the connections
2. tried extended crank and super crank (tachless mode) seems to want to start but doesn't.
3. should I bother with connecting to the Tach if it is the passlock system? I've read about a PURPLE / white wire that i could use, or a wire off one of the injectors.
4.Should I stay with the 555lw? I have programmed it a couple of times, letting the engine run for a couple of miinutes not the 5 seconds that the manual says.
I appreciate any help anyone could help me with this. My wife isn't exactly thrilled by this.
Thanks,
Tony




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: May 01, 2006 at 11:59 AM
Make absolutely sure that you are on the correct ignition wires. It sounds to me as if you may be powering the accessory wire as an ignition "In between start tries the battery light is on display", the battery light indicator will come on with the key in the first forward position, which on this truck is the accessory position. The remainder of the indicators should be lit as well prior to starting when the ignition is energized.

I believe that the 02 GM trucks operate the same as the newer ones, which means they have factory antigrind, and will stop engaging the starter when the vehicle is running. I would suggest to just leave it on voltage sensing. In extended crank mode.

It sounds to me as if the 555L is either working correctly or you are not on the correct wires, if the 555L was not operating properly your truck would go into long tamper mode and not allow it to start with the key until it has been reset (the 10 minute reference in an earlier post covers this).

Good luck.

Keep us posted.






Posted By: orangezcar
Date Posted: May 01, 2006 at 5:53 PM
I actually went to the DesignTech and the Bulldog security websites. The DesignTech provided me with the correct wire codes and the Bulldog actually provided pictures of the 2002 Silverado wires, etc. I undid the nylon cover over the wires which is located under the dash and connected the following wires;
Starter: Thin yellow
Ign 1: Thick Pink
Ing 2: Thin white
ACC: Thick orange - this one is really thick.
I grounded the unit to the dash frame.
All these wires lead to the plug that is located to the left of the BCM near the driver's side kick panel.
Should I use extended crank (50% more) or super crank (100% more)?
Are the wires correct?
Thanks again,
Tony




Posted By: orangezcar
Date Posted: May 02, 2006 at 1:14 PM

Actually, the battery light comes on after the starter tries to start the car and then right before it tries to start up again the "security" light comes on and flashes.

I think the passlock bypass is correct.  I am never locked out and can start the car with the key with no problem.  That would seem to leave the remote system itself.  I've checked all the wires with a multi-tester and they check out with what the manual says.

I think my next step may be to pull it out.  This is really frustrating.  I've put a remote starter in a 2002 Mountaineer and didn't have this much trouble.

Tony





Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: May 02, 2006 at 4:56 PM
OK, let's just verify

Bulldog Wire     Truck Wire
14ga Pink        Thick Red (constant)
14ga White       Thick Orange (accessory)
14ga Yellow      Yellow (starter)
14ga Blue        Thick Pink (Ignition)
14ga Green       White (Ignition 2)

Set it to extended crank, voltage sensing. Make sure that if you have already cut the tachometer jumper in the unit that you restore it. I would also recommend reprogramming the transmitters to the unit, I have seen some designtech units do funky things and reprogramming the transmitter has resolved it.

Don't give up, you are almost there!





Posted By: orangezcar
Date Posted: May 03, 2006 at 5:23 AM
How it is wired;
DesignTech             Truck
Pink                         Connected directly to Battery (with in-line fuse)
White                      ACC - thick orange
Yellow                      Starter - yellow
Blue                         Ign 1 - Pink
Green                      Ign 2 - White

Should I try connecting the Pink desigtech wire to the constant red? Right now there is an in-line fuse between the battery and the unit.

I'll try it again.
Thanks,
Tony




Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: May 03, 2006 at 3:33 PM

Sorry about the 'bulldog' there...brain fart.

Going to the battery with your feed is good, so long as the fuses are close to the battery.  I just re-read the posts earlier in this thread and you mention that your ground is to the underside of the dash.  I would suggest to move it to the kick panel, clean away all paint and primer to shiny metal.  Make sure there are no wires running behind where you want to ground it and use a star washer with a self tapper screw.  The ground via the dash is not as good a ground as it needs to be.  The brackets that are there are run through bolts/paint/etc.  After you move the ground, if it is still not working, try hooking your DMM to each of the connections and verify that they are operating as they should.  Make sure that both ignitions are staying energized the entire time and not dropping out.  Make sure the accessory is dropping out when the starter is engaged.

Keep us posted.






Print Page | Close Window