Print Page | Close Window

Viper 790XV in 2001 4Runner

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=7766
Printed Date: May 15, 2024 at 11:22 PM


Topic: Viper 790XV in 2001 4Runner

Posted By: jwrunner
Subject: Viper 790XV in 2001 4Runner
Date Posted: January 06, 2003 at 8:48 PM

I recently installed a Viper 790XV unit in my 2001 Toyota 4Runner.  The installation seemed to go perfect except for one thing.  The Viper's unlock feature does not work.  The alarm will disarm, it just wont unlock the doors.  All of the car's features still function perfectly, and I can still lock and unlock all of the doors with the car's controls.  All of the other Viper functions are working properly.  The wiring diagram I have says that the power lock wire is a BROWN / white wire in the passenger kick panel in pin 14 of an 18 pin plug.  It says that the door unlock is a GREEN/ YELLOW wire in pin 4 and the unlock detection switch is a blue / YELLOW wire in pin 13 of the same location.  The wiring diagram says that the Viper's Blue wire in the Door Lock Harness must be connected to both wires and diode isolated.  This was my first experience using diodes.  I purchased 1 amp diodes from Radio Shack (1N4004).  The ends of the diode were solid wire, not stranded.  I connected the ends of the diodes to the stranded wire using butt joint connectors with both the stranded wire and the diode solid wire spanning the full length of the connectors, so I'm pretty sure I have a good connection.  I conected the Anode end (furthest from the stripe, right?) to the alarm's harness and the Cathode end (closest to the stripe) to wires which I connected to the car's harness.  When the diode joints were finished, the center portion of the diode was between 2 butt connectors.  I was concerned that the wire portion of the diode between the connectors would break if it got bent around multiple times.  So I wrapped the entire joint in electrical tape and then then took a section of a lead pencil (also wrapped in tape) and secured it to the joint (with more tape) to give the joint strength.  If anyone can tell me what I did wrong, I would be very grateful.  This has me very frustated.  Thanks in advance for your help.




Replies:

Posted By: auex
Date Posted: January 06, 2003 at 9:33 PM

Here is a crude drawing showing how to pass a negative trigger.

Alarm unlock wire --<I---Diode----I----Car unlock wire  

Alarm unlock wire ---<I--Diode----I----Child safety wire

The unlock wire will either be red in the drivers kickpanel or GREEN/ YELLOW at the alarm module.  The child safety wire is RED / blue at either location( according to my notes, but as always look at the signiture).  The I> is the stripe it should be closest to the vehicles wiring.  Just join the diodes and butt connect or solder, depending on your preference, to the blue unlock wire coming from the alarm and then attach the other end of each diode to one of the wires neccessary to unlock the door.  If the alarm is using the 3 pin micro plug for unlock then you should probably use a relay since the wire is a low level output and probably cannot support connecting it to the unlock and the child safety wire.  Also I would lose the pencil lead and just secure the diode assembly to a wiring harness for stability.  Taping the diodes up is a good idea though.  Just make sure to tape them seperately before taping them together.



-------------
Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.




Posted By: JWorm
Date Posted: January 06, 2003 at 9:41 PM
From your desciption, it sounds like you have the stripes on the diodes facing the wrong way. The stripes should be on the alarm side.





Print Page | Close Window