1997 Chevrolet Tahoe Remote Start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=7833
Printed Date: May 02, 2024 at 5:51 AM
Topic: 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe Remote Start
Posted By: tculbert
Subject: 1997 Chevrolet Tahoe Remote Start
Date Posted: January 08, 2003 at 12:54 PM
I am looking for a wiring diagram for my 97 chevy tahoe. I am planning on installing an autopage remote start on it this weekend. Does anyone out there have one? Is this install easy? Is there any tricks that I should know about. Please help!!!
Replies:
Posted By: 10nesne1
Date Posted: January 08, 2003 at 1:16 PM
| WIRE | COLOR | LOCATION | | 12 VOLTS CONSTANT | RED (2) | IGN HARNESS | | IGNITION 1 | PNK | IGN HARNESS | | IGNITION 2 | WHT | IGN HARNESS | | IGNITION 3 | N/A | | | ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 1 | ORG | IGN HARNESS | | ACCESSORY /HEATER BLOWER 2 | | | | STARTER | YEL | IGN HARNESS | | PARKING LIGHTS | BRN (+) | AT HEADLIGHT SWITCH | | DOMELIGHT | PUR(-) | 4 PIN BLK CONN DR KICK PANEL | | PWR DOOR LOCK | L BLU | DRV KICK PANEL | | PWR DOOR UNLOCK | WHT | DRV KICK PANEL TYPE A | | TRUNK RELEASE | | | | TACH SENSOR | WHT | AT COIL ON PASS REAR OF ENG | | BRAKE | WHT (+) | AT SWITCH ABOVE BRAKE PEDAL | | HORN | BLK(-) | STEER COLM HARNESS | | FACTORY DISARM | N/A | IN SCHEMATICS |
Posted By: securinu
Date Posted: January 08, 2003 at 4:49 PM
this truck has passlock 2 for a factory disable system best bet to get a module to bypass it.
Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: January 19, 2003 at 2:36 PM
Does the 1997 yukon have passlock? I know 1998 incorporated it, but I thought 1997 didn't. --Jeff
Posted By: auex
Date Posted: January 19, 2003 at 6:10 PM
Turn the key on and if the orange security light stays on for a couple of seconds then you have passlock.
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Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: January 20, 2003 at 2:04 PM
Does the "orange light" actually say security? I only ask, because there is not a light that says security on my truck's instrument panel. --Jeff
Posted By: Auto_Obsessions
Date Posted: January 20, 2003 at 4:51 PM
If there is no security light then there is no Passlock.
Posted By: tculbert
Date Posted: January 21, 2003 at 6:45 AM
I installed one on my 97 tahoe last night. The Passlock wasn't incorporated until 1998. There is no Passlock on any 97 chevy trucks.
Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 04, 2003 at 3:03 PM
When grabbing the wires for the remote start on a 1997 GMC Yukon 2 door.... Should I grab them while still on the column? Or should I get them behind the large black connector that is within the dash? For your reference, this connector is about 3x5 inches and is bolted to the cross-strut behind the plastic dash face. There are about 20 wires leading into and out of it. It appears to be a harness quick connect, as I see no relays incorporated into its housing. Also, I have read of the mysterious "pink/white" ignition 3 wire that may exist on some 1997s. I don't see a pink/white. There is a pink and a "RED / white". I wanted to confirm that the RED / white was not the ignition 3... Can someone help me out with this? Thanks,' --Jeff
Posted By: PLAYER69
Date Posted: February 04, 2003 at 5:26 PM
You should get the wires on the firewall side of the connector you are speaking of. If you get it on the ignition switch side you risk putting additional strain on the wires which can cause wires to short out break at the switch because of the movement of the tilt. If you tilt the wheel up and down you will see the wires move quite a bit. If there is no pink/white it will be white. Either way you have to power it up. The RED / white will be 12+
Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 04, 2003 at 5:57 PM
Thanks for the answer... But I thought that the 1997 didn't have an ignition 3 unless it was pink/white??? I have another quick question about relays... I know I'll have to use 3 of them to actuate the door locks with the priority driver's feature. I'll need one for the horn trigger. I'll need one to actuate the rear glass. Do I need one for the parking lights since it is listed as a 10A output, or can I just tap the above wire at the switch? Do I need one for the "domelight supervision" if my truck already has it (i.e. is that feature hidden in with the factory remote receiver?) Thanks, --JJ
Posted By: PLAYER69
Date Posted: February 04, 2003 at 6:10 PM
It has either a white or a pink/white no question about it. As long as it is an automatic. Peronally I wouldn't bother with driver priority. To me its more of a pain in the ass to hook up and use. No relay is needed for the horn. Just hook the - horn output to the black wire at the column that tests ground when you push the horn. Assuming your 10a park lamp output is + you can just hook it directly to the brown wire at the headlight switch. If you pull a trailer this might be a problem however as combined the lights could draw more then 10 amps.
Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 04, 2003 at 6:32 PM
You mean it has an ignition 3 wire? Ignition 2 is white... Thanks, --Jeff
Posted By: PLAYER69
Date Posted: February 04, 2003 at 6:43 PM
ah no. Ign 1 is pink, ign 2 is white and accy is orange, starter is yellow. Thats all you need. There is no Ign 3. Sorry about that.
Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 04, 2003 at 6:50 PM
Thanks for your help! We'll see if it starts this weekend! --Jeff
Posted By: PLAYER69
Date Posted: February 04, 2003 at 10:07 PM
No problem. Let us know how you make out.
Posted By: gunner_for_hire
Date Posted: February 06, 2003 at 2:39 PM
A few final questions... Again an Autopage RS-750LCD on a 1997 GMC Yukon 2Door with rear hatch... Out of curiosity, how does the negative output for the horn (-200mA) trigger the horn if I just tie it into the horn wire ( The horn wire rests at 12V then goes to ground with honk)? In other words, why don't I need a relay? For the Domelight supervision... I was planning to use a relay and tie into the "white" wire at the headlight switch. I think my yukon has negative door triggers, but how do I tell? The relay would be as follows: 30-White wire at headlight switch, 85-12V, 86 - White wire from Autopage (H9/5 -200mA), 87- Ground, 87A- none. Is there a better way to do this? This setup does not require that I cut the white wire at the headlight switch, rather just tie into it. Will it work? Will it damage the switch if I don't cut it? For the rear hatch, I found a wire (BLACK/ white at the kick panel), that rests at ground and goes to 12V when the switch on the dash is actuated. I plan to use a relay to trigger this wire as follows: 30- BLACK/ white at kick panel, 85- 12V, 86- Grey wire from Autopage H9/2, 87- 12V, 87A- none Again, I have the question... Is it ok to tap the black wire going from the dash switch to the rear hatch or do I need to cut it and place the switch side on 87a and the hatch side on 30? I would rather tap it, but I don't want to fry anything. For the starter kill relay, I read the diagram to say that I should attach "85" to the "ignition switch". I assume I can grab either ignition 1 or ignition 2 as long as it gets 12V when the key is in the "on" position... Is this correct? I think this about covers it for now. I have installed the antenna, led, hood pin, shock sensor, knock sensor and temp sensor, now comes the real stuff. I plan to do this on Saturday night, I just want to confirm a few things before I start slinging solder! By the way, thanks for ALL the help! --Jeff
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