compustar 2wssr cm3000a, 95 caprice

on a 95 Caprice 9C1, no vats.

Compustar 2wssr
Here's what I did so far, I have not installed every option. Figured it might work with the basics.

Connector#1
Pin #1 Red - connected to +12 constant

Pin #2 Gr/Wh - connected (+)parking lights (in this case brown wire behind fuse panel)

Pin #3 RED / White - connected red to +12
From pin#3 there's also a RED / white wire that goes to a relay which goes out to a blue and purple wire - I DID NOT CONNECT THOSE (what the hell is a prewired relay ? - should that be conected to +12 ?, which one ? purple or blue or both ?)

Pin #7 Gr - connected to (+) ignition - pink wire behind fuse panel

Pin #8 - grounded



Connector #5
Pin #4 brown wire connected to red wire on siren, black wire from siren connected to ground.

Conn #7, #9, #11 - Both Antenae and shock sensor plugged into brain.

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Here's the problem;
I cycle ignition key 5 times fast, I dont hear any relay clicking after this and no parking light flash (as indicated in the manual)

I install the battery and it doesnt appear to give me a confirm beep. It beeps 3 times (i think) like 30 seconds later, but there seems to be no comm between brain and remote)

I have not installed any door, hood or trunk sensors. Not sure if they are neg or pos switched and whether that would interfere with programming mode.

Thanks in advance.

C'mon folks, I know this is a simple fix. Are there any compustar gurus out there ?

Well I found this, but is it correct ? and what of the blue wire ?

- CN2 contains a small green wire which you need to connect to the short purple wire on the pre-wired relay... it's a negative second ignition out.
https://g2ic.com/forums/showthread.php?t=117761&page=1

Did you test your PINK wire behind the fuse panel to ensure that it was infact a switched ignition wire ? If you don't have a switched ignition, then the system doesn't know that your toggling the ignition switch.

As for the relay, this is a pre-wired 2nd ACC, IGN, or STARTER relay, but seeing that you have the alarm only system, you don't need this wired up ( not even sure why you have this to begin with ). Normally you would only have the starter disable relay for the alarm only models.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Hey Jeff,

I have the combo remote start/alarm unit. I plan to get the RS hooked up later, trying to get the basic alarm operational. I'm a Canuck living in NYC, I travel to montreal often and neeeeeeed the remote start :)

Yep, pink wire metered +12 at start and run positions.

You have to toggle the ignition 5 times within 3 seconds and press the LOCK button ( or button #1 ) within 2 seconds of the toggle. If you take longer than this, the system will not enter remote program mode.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

How do you know if the remote is paired with the brain ? I still cant get the brain to flash parking lights, and the remote beeps three times after inserting the battery and pressing the 'I' button. The query button does nothing.

This is really tearing me a new one. I tried both procedures to sync the remote w the brain, Jeffs and the manual's. In both cases I get neither a chirp or parking light flash, nor relay clicking, nor confirmation from the remote.

I confirmed +12 constant, +12 ignition, ground looks good, I even get a RED / yellow led on the shock sensor if i flick it.

The manual specifically states, cycle key 5 times (I did this lickity split) and you will hear a relay sound. I didnt hear a relay sound after the fact but I could feel the black relay click every time I cycled the key.

I followed the manual and it says to insert battery, but the antena icon just flashes for 30 seconds or so, then all the icons light up w a beep and then nothing. Am I a moron or something, this is very frustrating. The manual is a joke.

What did you have the WHITE wire attached to on the Caprice ? Also, ensure that your ground is also good. You may have a bad antenna & remote control problem so whereever you bought the unit from you should be able to get warranty for this because Compustar offer's lifetime warranty on their unit ( but ) , it has to be installed by an authorized installer in order for you to get lifetime waranty. Seeing that it's the antenna and remote control though, you should still be able to get warranty on these peices.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

Jeff hit the nail on the head, and I pulled a bonehead. I had a bad ground. What threw me is that the shock sensor still flashed the led when I flicked it, so I assumed good power.

Anyway, I'm pleased w the feedback and support the forum provides so I'm kicking in a few dollars. I know I'll have questions later.

door lock switch pumps + to relay on white and tan wires.

compustar cm3000a v.3 has (-)lock/(-)unlock output.
Also, pulse duration is factory set to .8 seconds, programmable to 2.5s

I tried to see continuity between vehicle ground and blue wire and blue/blk when pressing the lock/unlock button on the remote. i.e. seeing if the lock/unlock wires go to ground.

I'm using a digital multimeter and it did not detect continuity.

Am i confused, is it correct that the blue/blk(unlock) and blue(lock) wires on the cm3000s are supposed to go ground when remote lock/unlock buttons are pressed ?

Could the multimeter not be seeing the .8 second ground pulse ?

I think I am in need of the relays to pulse + to the tan and white wires but unsure of the exact circuit in the faqs, i imagine 3 wire positive, but again confused.

cheers.

Correction, vehicle door switch lock/unlock relay wires are white and blue. should hold true for all gm B/D body caprice, impala, roadmaster, cadillac and maybe trucks.

Oh yeah, i'll fess up. with a set of aligator clips i test hooked the + door lock/unlock wires to the (-)lock/unlock blue/black &blue wires form the brain. Did i f it up ?

POWER LOCK|lt. blue            |+  |drivers kick panel         
POWER UNLOCK|white               |+  |drivers kick panel         

You will need relays to reverse the polarity of the (-) trigger of the Compustar in order for the door locks to work at all. Using a (-) trigger will do nothing to the door triggers.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

just got back from radioshag toting a bunch of t-taps and a couple diff relays. they only had mini spdt relays (275-248) but they had the standard automotive spst relays (275-226). I believe theyre the potter blumfield cause they are made in the UK.

Anywho, although the faqs have a diagram for spdt switching, but I believe an spst is exactly what I need for this application. It doesnt have the 87a term, but it has 4 lugs - 2 for coil at 160mA and the 30A 12V relay switch.

I was looking at the inline fuses in the shaq, guess I shoulda bought a couple. I suppose the +12 to the lock solenoid should be fused at least 10A ?

I hope I didnt kill the brain w the + I sent to the (-)250mA trigger wires.