aps 997a, 2003 honda accord
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=79340
Printed Date: May 13, 2025 at 7:52 AM
Topic: aps 997a, 2003 honda accord
Posted By: honorabledog
Subject: aps 997a, 2003 honda accord
Date Posted: June 19, 2006 at 5:33 PM
Hello everyone. I have a quick question about installing an audiovox aps 997a into a 2003 Honda accord. When it comes to the bypass module for the ignition which will be the best to use. Could I use the 791, or the pk-h3. This is my first 2 way alarm install in this new of a vehicle. I have 17 yrs in the hot-rod and custom bike business so I do know a little bit, but while performing research on this set-up I have seen some horror stories about burning up computers and such. What else do I need to focus on while performing this job? Any ideas or help I can get are greatly appreciated. Thanks...Mike
Replies:
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: June 20, 2006 at 12:45 AM
Depends if you can sacrifice one of the spare keys or not.
If you get the standard box where you just put a spare key in it.........DEI 556U, Audiovox AS-TCBM, Trilogix TBK-III, you can't get into much trouble.
As for any of the bypasses that involve cutting and splicing into the car's immobilizer wiring, I think it is too time-consuming to be worthwhile.
Also, check out the HODL2 at bypasskit.com. It costs more than a few bucks, but it makes the install go faster and saves you the trouble of running wires into the door.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: June 20, 2006 at 6:11 AM
Thank's for the quick reply Chris. Sounds good, and I appreciate the tip on the HODL2. I'm going to bypasskit.com right now.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: July 24, 2006 at 7:01 AM
Mornin everyone, I am in the process of putting an aps-997 into an 03 accord. I have all the components mounted and the main 6 pin harness wired. Now I'm realizing I don't know as much as I should about this install so I'm learning as I go. I have a few questions I need answers to and I know someone here can help. First off do I need to wire the alternate 4 pin harness as well? I couldn't tell from the instructions if I'd be using the function of it or not. Second question is when I wire the 556u modulator for the remote start do I cut the ring and wire it to the factory wires or do I use the ring over the ignition switch? The directions call for either way? Thanks ahead for any info given. Mike
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: July 24, 2006 at 7:32 AM
alternate 4-pin....... is that the one with the four, BLACK/ strip wires? If so, yes.
Most Accords have the factory alarm.........BLACK/ blue goes to the white factory disarm in the driver's door............if you want to arm the Honda alarm at the same time you arm the Prestige alarm, also connect the BLACK/ green to the WHITE/ red arm wire in the door.
NOTE: If using the bypasskit.com HODL2, you don't have to go into the door, and also don't have to use the 4-pin harness.
As far as the 556U, just use the ring it comes with. It must be tight around the face of the Honda's ignition switch, or it won't work. You'll need to use a piece of tape, or a small zip tie, to make the 556U's ring a little bit smaller.
Also, you didn't ask, but the 556U is a very versatile piece, with lots of wiring options....but it also gets people confused.
Red: constant power
Blue: light blue Ignition 3 from APS-997
Black: chassis ground, or you can also connect this to Ignition 3; whichever is easier.
ALL other wiring on the 556U is not used for your application.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: July 24, 2006 at 8:11 AM
Thanks Chris, your quick. The 4-pin I am asking about is realy just 3 wires in one 4-pin connector that mounts beside the 6-pin. It's called 4-pin "alternate" ignition harness, and has one ORANGE / black, one RED / black, and one pink wire. The instructions say the or/bl is for park brake if using turbo timer mode? The RED / bl and pink are dry contacts used for negative swiching. I don't know what this means. As for the modulator thanks..makes since now, thanks alot. Mike
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: July 24, 2006 at 4:54 PM
Oh yeah, that's right I remember now.......that's two new features they've added to the aps-997 over the older 996.
You don't need any of those three wires, but here's a rundown of them:
parking brake: If you connect this wire, the remote starter will keep the engine running for 5 minutes after you set the parking brake and remove the key.
That's useful for turbocharged or supercharged cars, because after hard driving, it's best to let the engine idle a few minutes, to keep oil circulating to the turbo to cool it.
Dry contact wires: These two wires are separate from each other at rest, and then they are connected together when the remote start is on............if your car had a third ignition wire (yours doesn't).........you would connect one of these wires to constant power, and the other to the extra ignition wire in the car.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: July 24, 2006 at 6:37 PM
thanks again Chris. You saved me some stress there. This site is the best.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: July 29, 2006 at 9:00 AM
Mornin everyone, I'm still trying to finish installing a prestige aps-997 into a 03 honda accord but I've come across some problems. The door trigger will not work with the alarm. I connected the brown(-) from the alarm to the GREEN/ red wire thats near the lock/unlock wires. Is this correct? What about thepurple wire(+) from the alarm.Do I connect it anywhere? Also the parking lights will not flash with the alarm. I connected the white wire to the BLACK/ red at the steering column and the WHITE/ red to the RED / black but no luck. Anyone have any ideas?
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: July 29, 2006 at 9:02 AM
I should mention the WHITE/ red to RED / black connection was at the white plug above the fuse box.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: July 29, 2006 at 4:28 PM
Are you TESTING wires, or just connecting and hoping?
There are three RED / blacks in the plugs above the fusebox.........one is parking lights.....one is ignition......and one is a computer databus wire.....
If you power up the data wire as parking lights, it WILL blow the MUX unit, which is the fusebox and body-conrol module built together. I'm not saying it's just a possiblity----it's been observed several times.
The easiest/best/safest place to get the positive parking lights is low in the driver's kick panel, in the thick harness that runs to the rear of the car......it's going to be the ONLY RED / black wire there so you'll be relatively safe.....but again, for safety's sake, TEST with your multimeter or LED test light.
While you're there down low in the kick panel, the brake wire and trunk release are there, as well.
Another choice, if the car has a sunroof or traction control, is to get the parking lights directly at the sunroof switch on the dash.
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As for door trigger, the wires you want are at the highest spot on the fusebox......it's a small plug, and you can clearly see that the wires run up the A-pillar to the roof........it's a little tight in there.......after you test that it is the correct domelight wire, you'll probably want to undo the plug while you work, for a little more slack.
The purple, + door trigger from the alarm is not needed......that is for cars that have a positive domelight wire, mainly Fords and newer Chryslers.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: July 30, 2006 at 8:59 AM
Thanks again Chris. Yeah, I'm testing each wire for current with the ignition on and off.I use a dmm. I'm looking for wether the current is + or - with the switch on. I have tried the RED / black wire that runs down the length of the car and it diddn't work. Thats why I was confused. I diddn't know about the MUX wire you mentioned. I really appreciate you telling me, You seem to be the only person here that takes the time to answer my questions, THANK YOU. I can see from your reply that I have been off on the GREEN/ red for the domelight now cause I was trying at the green plug that goes to the side of the fuse box. I owe you a drink. Mike
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: July 30, 2006 at 1:07 PM
I got the parking lights straight now. It was the connection at the column that was wrong. It was actually a RED / BLACK with blue dots that needed to be used. And as you said Chris the red black at the fuse panel harness to the rear. I had connected to the BLACK/ red which turns out to be for the headlights....
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: July 31, 2006 at 12:53 AM
Finally finished this install. I used every available option I could with this alarm. This was a special favor for a friend, as I normally do not install alarms. I learned alot here at this site, hours of using the search feature.The system is working flawless now, only took me a week to install  , but I only charged the customer for the parts, $260. I wired it up so clean that you would have to dig under the dash to know the alarm was there. Big thanks to Chris for answering my questions and to everyone here for their past post's....your answers today help others in the future. I have documented my install with pics and etc. and I plan to help others here if I can. Great site, I'm glad to have found it.
Posted By: kristie_jeff
Date Posted: August 03, 2006 at 8:23 PM
I know I am a few days late, but from what I can remember the last time I installed a Prestige alarm, the WHITE/ red wire for the lights flashing either connects to contstant power (positive battery) or ground. The RED / white wire decides what type of output is sent through the white wire, either + or -.
That's all assuming that my CRS isn't acting up (Can't Remember doodie"
Jeff
Posted By: kristie_jeff
Date Posted: August 04, 2006 at 9:29 AM
Wow... Umm yeah, can I delete that last post.? I didn't read the second page. Sorry guys
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