1995 Saturn SL2, Door Lock fuse

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=80159
Printed Date: May 05, 2024 at 6:04 PM

Topic: 1995 Saturn SL2, Door Lock fuse

Posted By: Phenz
Subject: 1995 Saturn SL2, Door Lock fuse
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 9:43 AM

Hi. My 1995 Saturn SL2 4 door has power windows and locks. About a week ago, the power locks stopped working. I checked the fuse box, and was able to locate the fuse for the power locks circuit. I pulled it out and saw it was no good. I replaced it with a new (mini-atx) 20A fuse (same rating as original one), and it immediately burned as soon as I plugged it in. I tried it once more with a 25A fuse, and it also burned. Could anyone help me with troubleshooting the problem? I can only imagine that there is some kind of short in the system? Posssibly at one of the door lock switches, or maybe even at the fuse box? Any help will be greatly appreciated..!!! Thanks.

Replies:

Posted By: captainzab
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 10:52 AM

Seems like a wire that shouldnt be grounded is being grounded. This is why it is drawing so much current causing your fuse to blow.
My guess is to look under the dash or the kick panel for the lock and unlock wires. Then into your door and look at the switches to see if a wire is accidently seeing ground.

Posted By: Phenz
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 11:02 AM

Thanks. Questions, how would I know what wires are which when looking under the dash or kick panel? Is there anywhere I can check to get a summary of which wires are for what? If not, I will try to trace the wires from the switches.

Posted By: captainzab
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 12:00 PM

https://www.directwholesale.net/diagrams/printpage.asp?ModelID=18498&MakeID=52
POWER LOCK LIGHT BLUE (TYPE A) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
POWER UNLOCK WHITE (TYPE A) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL

Check those wire first

Posted By: Phenz
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 12:04 PM

Thanks captain! I will go home and try to check those wires tonight.

Posted By: dea,can
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 3:12 PM

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dragon

Posted By: Phenz
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 3:40 PM

You guys are great. Thx for the info. Questions, which is the B Pillar? I imagine I should try to check the Power Door LOCK and Power Door UNLOCK wires. Should I also check the Door Trigger (-) line? I plan to go home and follow the cables wherever possible to see if I found where they are making contact (ground). Is there any way i can test the lines by using a voltometer to try and determine where the problem is?

Posted By: dea,can
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 8:15 PM

check in the drivers boot between the the door and fender make not shorting out there over time they wires break.

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dragon

Posted By: customak47
Date Posted: July 11, 2006 at 8:18 PM

Hey, you may have a bad door lock actuator causing your problem, or a shorted wire in the door lock system. What I would try first to isolate the problem is to ask, have you done any work to the vehicle recently? if you have, recheck to see if you have drilled through a wire or something easy. If you haven't, then I would see how easy it is to disconnect the factory door wiring harnesses. If it is relatively easy to do, unhook one by one, each time using THE CORRECT AMPERAGE FUSE, and see if it blows. if it does, short not in door. if it doesn't then your problem lies between the connector and the door. if you unhook all doors and it still blows, then short in car somewhere. Get back to us with more info and there will be more help.

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My rifle is my friend...

Posted By: Phenz
Date Posted: July 24, 2006 at 9:04 AM

Thank you all! I finally had some time this weekend to get this figured out. I traced the wires from the fuse box back to the driver's door, and was able to locate a shorted wire by the driver's kick panel. It seems the previous owner had some work done (added flood lights) and I was able to locate some loose wires that in my opinion were probably cut / tapped into and then later realized were the wrong ones. They had some tape on the ends, but had gotten loose and were making contact casuing a short in the door lock circuit.

You guy's saved me alot of time, and really directed me to the correct locations to inspect w/in the car. I didn't have to take the doors apart, and corrected the problem by placing a crimped plug on the end of each loose cable along with some electrical tape.

Thanks!