2002 Chevy Tahoe Keyless

captainzab wrote:

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never heard the term piggyback. But yea, splice into the wire (or if its hard to reach use T-taps)

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please dont ever use T taps .solder and tape at the least. ive been installing a long time and have never had to use a T tap and i cringe when i see them. thay are are by far not a solid connection

use a gm bypass and follow the instructions one wire hook up

Chris Luongo wrote:

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Right.

You'll obviously need the tools and ability to take down the driver's dash.........it's easy. Two 7mm bolts and the lower dash pulls off. Behind there is a metal bolster, held by four 10mm nuts; you could perhaps work around it, but removing it is recommended.

You'll also need a multimeter or test light, and the ability to use it correctly.

Finding the correct wires goes like this:

--Touch your tester onto the pin at the BCM for the wire which you think is correct.........operate the desired function (locks, lights, or whatever)......and verify that the wire is the correct one.

--Cut the tape off the wire harness, and make enough slack so you can work. Use a wire stripper to open up the insulation, but NOT cut the wire. (You might cut it by accident, but no big deal---you'll just have to reconnect it with solder, or a butt connector.)

--Once the wire's insulation is opened up a bit, poke THROUGH the copper strands with your test probe, making an opening through the middle. Put your new wire THROUGH the hole, and then wrap it tightly around the factory wire. Adding solder is never a bad idea.

--Next, wrap tape around the connection in the SAME direction you wrapped the wire.....if you try to wrap in the opposite direction, the aftermarket wire will unravel a little bit.

--Finally, when you're finished with all your connections, throw a couple of zip ties around the whole bundle......the original wire you spliced into, the OTHER original wires, and the aftermarket wire.....so they'll lock together and won't come apart if pulled on.

NOTE: That Tahoe uses positive-trigger lock and unlock wires.

Some keyless units offer outputs that flip-flop from negative to positive, which is nice and makes it easy.

Other units give ONLY a negative output, and you'll need to use a couple of relays to invert that to a positive........not a big deal, but kind of a pain.

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here is all the wiring you will need and dont use any kind of test light only DMM as there is the potential to cause damage to the bcm.   If a DMM has a very high impedance or resistance it will cause a slight increase in the circuit's current. This becomes a concern when you test electronic systems because the increased current draw can damage the components being tested or, at the very least, alter the readings or change a sensor signal. You want to get a meter that has an impedance of at least 10 megaohms. That is to say their current draw is so low it becomes invisible.

Before you use your DMM to perform a test, you need to know what you are testing and what kind of results you are looking for. If you are looking for volts, you will need to select the proper range for the test. If you are looking for a 12-volt result, select a meter range higher than 12 volts. For example, a 0 to 25 volt range would be best. A range of 0 to 500 volts will not yield an accurate result.

Almost all DMMs have an "auto-range" features that will automatically select the proper range. Some DMMs will let you override this feature and let you manually select the range you want. Some DMMs do not have this option and must be set manually. Check the documentation that came with your DMM and make sure you know and understand the different ranges it is capable of.

yes you ground the com side of the DMM and probe with the other

CHEVROLET / TAHOE / 2002 / Remote Start

12volts  red  +  ignition harness Starter  yellow  +  ignition harness Second Starter  N/A     Ignition  pink  +  ignition harness Second Ignition  white  +  ignition harness Notes: To avoid the check engine light from coming on and possible damage to the automatic transmission, the second ignition in this vehicle MUST be powered when adding a remote start system. Third Ignition  N/A     Accessory  orange  +  ignition harness Second Accessory  brown  +  ignition harness Keysense  lt. green  -  ignition harness Power Lock  lt. blue  +  pin A4, brown plug at BCM Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle. Power Unlock  white  +  pin A3, brown plug at BCM Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle. Lock Motor  gray  5wi  driver kick, door harness Unlock Motor  tan  5wi  driver kick, door harness Parking Lights+  brown  +  pin B6, lt. blue plug at BCM Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle. Parking Lights-  white  -  pin A5, lt. blue plug at BCM Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle. Hazards  same as turn signals     Turn Signal(L)  lt. blue  +  steering column Turn Signal(R)  dk. blue  +  steering column Reverse Light  lt. green  +  inside rear view mirror Door Trigger    -  BCM Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle. Use tan for the driver door located in pin B4 of the purple plug, and the passenger doors are a blue/white in pin B11 of the lt. blue plug. Use both wires and diode isolate each. Dome Supervision  use door trigger     Trunk/Hatch Pin  pink/black  -  pin B10, lt. blue plug at BCM Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle. Hood Pin  N/A     Trunk/Hatch Release  N/A     Power Sliding Door  N/A     Factory Alarm Arm  arms on lock     Factory Alarm Disarm  lt. green  -  pin B3, purple plug at BCM Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle. Disarm No Unlock  see factory alarm disarm     Tachometer  white  ac  ECM Notes: The ECM (Engine Control Module) is located near the battery, down low, between the fender and the fan under the black plastic cover. On the 4.3L, the tach wire is in pin 20 in the connector labeled red. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located in pin 10 in the red connector. Wait to start  dk. blue  -  instrument cluster Brake Wire  white  +  brake pedal switch Parking Brake  GREEN / WHITE  -  parking brake switch Horn Trigger  black  -  pin A9, brown plug at BCM Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle. Memory Seat 1  white  +  memory mod under dr seat Memory Seat 2  purple  +  memory mod under dr seat Memory Seat 3  N/A  +   Interface Module: Category: Immobilizer Bypass Required: Yes Type: Passlock II Part #: 556LW Alternate Part1 #: 555LW Alternate Part2 #: DesignTech 20402 Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 29402 Notes: Interface Module: Category: Door Lock Interface Required: No Type: N/A Part #: N/A Notes: Interface Module: Category: Combo Interface Required: Yes Type: Data Bus Part #: 457GW Notes: Can use the 457GW to bypass the Passlock II, but it will not control the door locks on this model year. Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available

question #1 yes

question #2 yes

josh1979 wrote:

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does not matter just use the pos. on the brain to the pos. on the car , or the neg on the brain to the neg on the car . both will flash

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Red97LT1 wrote:

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One more thing,do I need to hook up the ignition wire? I'm not doing any sort of remote start.

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Red97LT1 wrote:

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Red97LT1 wrote:

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One more thing,do I need to hook up the ignition wire? I'm not doing any sort of remote start.

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What about this?

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So no relays are necessary for the locks on these trucks? Given that you are using a unit with (+/-) door lock outputs? 

Maxxed OUtt