remote starter for santa fe

need info on remote start installation, brand. factory alarm and keyless entry. want to use oringinal remotes. any help appreciated. thanks ray

The Santa Fe isn't a difficult car.

You want to use your factory remotes? Nothing wrong with that, but first verify that the remotes have enough range to work from inside your home or work..........the remote starter is going to have the exact same range you have now.........it's not going to work when you're at the mall or supermarket.

There are many factory-remote remote starters on the market. I install the Audiovox Pursuit AS-9075A; it's reliable and not too costly. DEI makes the Valet 551T, and I believe Crimestopper has something as well.

thanks Chris, factory remotes are good. I won't be far from car if remote started. Need for pet cooling. Just a few questions. Have talked to several installers and get different answers. what type bypass module do I need and can I get one that "learns" key code? can I arm the alarm and then remote start? I've heard you have to hit unlock-lock-unlock-lock for two pulses to remote start. also if I only add remote start will I only need to connect to wires at ETACS -electronic time and alarm control system?   I assume the pulse to the door lock relay would be the pulse to start the remote. Am I close? would get the new 661T. Thanks, Ray

I must have done hundreds of Santa Fes by now (I do dealer work), and my co-workers and I have gotten them to go pretty quick and easy.....it is a simple car. I will try to answer all of your questions.

--Your post says you're in the U.S., right? And you didn't mention what year your Santa Fe is, but I'm guessing it's not the all-new 2007, is it?

--The U.S. model of the Santa Fe, 2006 and older, does not have an anti-theft transponder key; no bypass is necessary. The 2007 is mostl likely to have a transponder key, and factory remotes that DON'T work when the engine is running.

--That's cool that you're doing it for pet cooling. I have a 1-year old Rat Terrier named Bonnie, who goes with me everywhere, including to work.

--As far as what buttons you're going to press on your remote, and in what order, that all depends on the brand.

My Audiovox stuff is Lock, Unlock, Lock.

DEI gives you one wire, and you hook it to whatever you want, and you can go into the programming menu and set it so that it requires 1, 2, or 3 pulses, your choice.

A typical scenario with the DEI piece would be to connect it to the wire that triggers the power-lock actuator inside the driver's door (you can catch this wire in the driver's kick panel someplace)..........and program the unit for 2 or 3 pulses, your choice..........and then you'll just press Lock on your factory remote either 2 or 3 times, and the car will start.

(Obviously you wouldn't want to program it for just one pulse, because then it would start every time you lock the car!)

--As far as what wires you would connect.....I'll try to give you a quick, non-detailed rundown, for the 2006-and-older.

------------------------------------

--Six wires in the thick harness at ignition switch. Two constant, one ignition, one starter, two accessories.

One of the accessory wires comes on when the key is in the first "Accessory" position; this powers the radio.......I leave this wire unpowered, because I don't like the radio on during remote start.....but it's up to you.

--You might see various diagrams telling you where the keysense wire is........first, it is not a necessary connection..........second, if you do connect the keysense, the factory remotes won't work when the car is running.......so don't.

--There's a white plug a little to the right of the fusebox; + trigger parking lights is GREEN/ orange.

--Brake wire is GREEN/ black in the plug at the brake pedal; easy and plain to see.

On some of the Santa Fes, though, the brake wire can also be found immediately next to the parking light wire.....I like to get it there if I can, because it looks neater.

--The wire that triggers the driver's doorlock actuator, well, I don't know where that is, because I haven't put an add-on type of remote starter into a Santa Fe before.........look for a wire diagram for your car and find the "lock motor" wire; that's what you want........it'll turn into a positive when you hit the power lock switch.

If all you want is a BASIC remote start install, with no concern for safety features, that's it; you're done. It really is an easy car. Program for voltage-sensing mode, 0.8 seconds crank time, and it'll work fine.

Did you also have a question about the Hyundai's factory alarm? Nothing to worry about; starting the engine will not set off the alarm anyway.

If you don't mind a little more work:

--The factory hoodpin wire is available inside the car.....I think it's pink, on the left side of the fusebox.....you have to unbolt the fusebox and shove it aside a little to gain access, and even then it's a little awkward.

In any event, it's far easier to take advantage of the factory hoodpin wire, than to fish your own wire through the firewall and install that crappy aftermarket pinswitch that'll rust out anyway.

--If you want to connect to the car's tachometer circuit, which is more reliable than voltage-sensing mode, that wire is available inside the car too.

Remove the long panel on the side of the center console, to the right of the driver's foot. Maybe four or five screws.

You can then plainly see the engine computer there. I THINK tach is WHITE/ black.....but it is always in a different location, depending on which engine and transmission you have........so I always have a hard time finding it.

The DEI wiring sheet lists the exact pin # and location of the wire, which might be of help to you.

Thanks Chris,
We have a 13 pound terrier that looks like a rat terrier with a lot of long silky blond hair. She love to ride and sits on the small center console like an inside hood ornament.
I have an 06, 2.7 v6 with keyless, and factory alarm.
I've heard so many conflicting replies and information from local installers. One installer said I would loose a key to the bypass and could use a plain blank key to start the car and might not be able to start the car with a factory key with transponder chip in it.
One post says you can program a new key with the ETACS, but only two keys. That way you can't have two working keys.
Another post says only canadian models have immobilizer control systems. but see service manuel below......


====SERVICE MANUAL====     
Applies to: Santa Fe 2006
GROUP
Body Electrical System     Immobilizer Control System


DESCRIPTION

The immobilizer system is an anti-theft device which enables starting to be possible only when the mechanical and wireless secret codes are aligned simultaneously.

The transponder built in the ignition key signals its unique frequency code and at this time the ICM compares it with the memorized code.

When the codes are aligned, the ICM sends signals to the ECM so that starting is possible. ICM : Immobilizer Control Module ECM : Engine Control Module
==========
would lock wire at bottom of list be the trigger for remote start? that would be easy.

| ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|red & orange |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|blue |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|blue |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION|pink |+ |ignition harness |
| ACCESSORY|green |+ |ignition harness |
| POWER LOCK|yellow/blk dash stripe |- |DKP, white 22 pin plug |
| POWER UNLOCK|WHITE/ black |- |DKP, white 22 pin plug |
++++ LOCK MOTOR|gray | |DKP, white 22 pin plug +++++++
| UNLOCK MOTOR|white | |DKP, white 22 pin plug |

What trigger would shut down remote start?

also where is best place to get 561t, with wire diagram for santa fe and guarantee?

Thanks,   Ray

Hey Ray,

That's really cool about your dog. Mine is in near-constant motion; I wish she would sit in one place in the car!

---I'm not sure why you're getting conflicting information about transponder keys.

It's possible that whoever you talked to isn't actually familiar with the Santa Fe, but just pulled up one of those wiring charts on a computer, and maybe it listed a transponder key.......those charts are often wrong.

If it's a U.S. model, you don't have a transponder key.

If you want a sure-fire, prove-it-to-yourself method..........go to the hardware store, and get a regular copy of your key for a couple of bucks.

If the copied key starts the car, there is no chip.

--On that wiring chart, the "Lock Motor" wire will make a POSITIVE trigger every time the doors are locked, whether from the remote, or the door-panel switch.

You can use that wire to activate the remote start.

--About shutting down the remote start?

A. It times out after 12 minutes.
B. When you get in the car, turn the key on, and hit the brake, the RS shuts down and you're on your own.
C. If you're inside the house, and the RS is on, and you don't want to wait out the 12 minutes.......just press "Lock" 2 or 3 times again.......the "activation input" also serves as the "de-activation input" if the RS is already on.

--Wire diagram for Santa Fe. The wire colors you have listed there is pretty much all you're going to find for technical information.

All you're going to have is that list, the tips I mentioned, and the install manual that comes with the remote start.

If you are undecided how comfortable you feel about doing the install, download the install guide and read it before buying.

--As far as where to buy, I'm not really sure.

They're all over eBay, and the price is usually right. I doubt there will be any guarantee or tech support from the seller......or if there is a guarantee, it won't be worth the cost of shipping it back and all that.

You might find a local dealer who will sell you the item over the counter, but again, they would probably sell it as-is, with no tech support.
They will probably point out that, after all, they make money from their technical knowledge, and don't want to give it away.

---Overall, I would say not to worry about the guarantee, for a few reasons:

A. Once you install it correctly and get it working right, it's unlikely to break.....usually the remotes are the first thing to break, and an add-on system doesn't have its own remotes anyway.

B. If it does stop working someday, it is far more likely that some part of the install has failed.....which you'd have to fix no matter what.

C. If you put it in wrong, and blow it up, it's your fault anyway and the guarantee will be of little help.

D. No matter what, the cost of the product is relatively small compared to the value of your labor. If the brain fails all on its own, well, the labor is already done.......it sucks you'd have to buy another unit and plug the brain in......but that'd be it; it's not like you'd have to do the whole thing over.

Thank Chris,
   Just want't to be sure before I spent money to save money and didn't want to spent a whole lot of money to have someone say you should have brought it here to begin with. Will get back with results. Thanks again, Ray

Hi Ray,

Well, there are a lot of pro installers who very much look down on people who try to install their own alarms and remote starters...........I don't like to do that, but I do try to be realistic.

---If you walked into the shop I work for, for example, they'd give you your choice of an factory-keyless-add-on remote start, or a separate 1-button remote start with two remotes, for $199 installed plus tax. With everything guaranteed.

---If you're doing it yourself, you're not going to be able to get the product as cheaply as a shop can, obviously.

And even if you're a smart guy and good with tools and cars and electronics........it'll still probably take you a full day, just because you haven't done it before. Or if you get stuck where you can't figre something out, or something breaks, you might even be there all weekend.

---My opinion is that if you're just doing this yourself to save money, it probably isn't financially worth it.......you could perhaps just put in an extra day of work at your regular job and that'll probably pay for the install.

On the other hand, I personally enjoy doing a lot of things myself, and I find that most "professionals," no matter what the industry, often to sloppy and hurried work. More often than not, I find myself dissatisfied when I hire someone to do something for me.

So, if you enjoy learning stuff, and you take pride in careful, neat work, it could very well pay off in personal satisfaction, even if not in dollars.

Chris,
Here's a picture of Lucky.
And I do like doing almost everything myself, after researching it, it's a great feeling of accomplishment.

    Thanks again

You can also wrap the head of the key in tinfoil.... it will shield the key and make it unreadable to the car. If it still starts..... no RFID.

I use the same method to keep "them" from reading my brainwaves sometimes...........

Gus


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Wherever I go, that is where I end up......

"The factory hoodpin wire is available inside the car.....I think it's pink, on the left side of the fusebox.....you have to unbolt the fusebox and shove it aside a little to gain access, and even then it's a little awkward."

Looks like you got it covered pretty well Chris, but here's a quick tip. The hoodpin wire changes from pink to green. Look to the left of the steering column there is a large white connector. The wire is right there no need to unbolt the fusebox for anything. I think it changes colors @ this connector so if you look at the other side it will be the opposite color.

Mike

have ignition and power wires hooked up but,...
I can't find lock motor wire. found 22 pin plug to right of fuse box, gray wire should be + when lock, but no gray wire there.
found 15 pin plug, but no green orange for parking light.
With 22 pin and also 20 pin plug above and 15 pin disconnected, locks still work from door switch and remote. light flash on unlock only.
Where am I going wrong?   Need help, Thanks Ray

Hey Santafay,

Glad to see you're making progress. And that picture of your dog Lucky is really cool---she even matches the upholstery! If I can figure it out, I'll try to post a picture of Bonnie here, or I have one at myspace.com/chrisluongo if you have an account there.

Anyway, I'm afraid I might not be of much help finding that lock motor wire, as I've never had occasion to look for it.

But here's where I'd start:

--Operate the doorlocks, and listen for clicking inside the car; that's the lock relay. I think it's going to be part of the fusebox on your car.

--Take a mental note of where the wires go through the rubber boot, from the door into the body of the car. Somehow or other, they've GOT to be running from that boot, into the car's body, and to the fusebox.

--If possible, grab the boot in the doorjamb, give it a pull or wiggle, and see if you can find the corresponding wires wiggling inside the car.

--Remember that around the driver's kick panel area, there's likely to be some sort of rubber-and-foam sound barrier. If you push it aside, you might find more wires behind it.

Hey, I just thought of one more thing.

The "lock motor" wire is going to be running to all five doors, and those 5 different wires are all tied together at some point......they all perform the same function......so there is no particular need to get it where it goes into the driver's door.

Down low in the kick panel, or under the doorsill, where the wires run to the rear of the car....you should be able to find it there too.

Thanks Chris, found correct 22 pin and gray lock wire right where you suggested. Also found relay that is handy that flashes lights when unlocking doors. can I
connect to whichever wire goes to parking lites there?

Thanks,, Ray

I don't see why you couldn't tie into the parking light wire wherever you happen to find it.

But, if memory serves, Hyundais flash the hazards when locking and unlocking, NOT the parking lights. So, the "relay" you've found is really probably the turn-signal flasher.

found all correct wire in all the right places. engine tries to start but is factory set for 06 sec. trying to reprogram to .8 or 1 sec and voltage checking. instructions say   "push button switch in blue port is used together with the activation input wires." "push button x time and hold,   activate input then release push button.   how do I activate input?   real close now!!! thanks, ray

Yes, does sound like you are very close!

To trigger the activation input, you would simply lock the car's doors electrically.

Since programming requires you to have the key turned on (I think?), AND the Hyundai remotes won't work if a key is inserted in the ignition...........you won't be able to use the factory remotes to trigger the locks for programming........instead, just press the power-lock switch on the door.

Thanks Chris,
Everything works like a pro job!
Before moving to Florida I spent 25 years in framingham, brockton, west dennis cape cod and worcester. We were almost neighbors.
Thanks again for the excellent advice. I would have unwired the car if left to my own devices.    Ray