2007 Chevy Suburban

Has Any one worked on a 2007 Chevy Suburban I installed a 15" monitor and tied the constant and the accessory wire in the igninition harness but the monitor turned on for 5 seconds and then shut off and now there is no power to the monitor and the truck does not start checked all fuses and they are okay but truck still doesnt start wire i grabed for acc is brown like primary wire and RED / white for constant also the same gauge like primary wire.

if anyone call help please email me guatemalan2003@yahoo.com

100%Guatemalan

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100%Guatemalan

I'm not sure, but maybe its to do with the anti theft system. Newer cars you cant tap into wiring at the ign switch, because it will think its being hotwired. Maybe thats how the 07 suburban is.

did you verify that you still have power on these wires?  you may have a shorted wire which took out a main fuse.....

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

The fuse is in the underhood fuse box. It is number 34 and is a two amp fuse. As mentioned, you can't use the ignition harness wiring on most newer GM's. They aren't designed to handle any load and are only reference voltages for the BCM. Most circuits can't even handle the load of a relay on them. You need to find other sources of power.

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sparky

 THank You for everyones advise but i definetly blew something because car still don't start and according to dealership they say it was the computer brain if anyone has an idea what fuse it was or is please help because dealership wants $10500 for a new computer cause they said the brown wire i taped into was the part of the throttle and starter wire please help a lot of money out of my pocket.

thank you

100%Guatemalan

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100%Guatemalan

if they honestly swap it, tell them that you want all the parts replaced...

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Driving a Bagged, Caddied 02 s10

I had a simaler problem on a 2006 uplander, if the brown acc wire does not lose 12V when you try to start it, it will not crank, do not use that wire for any acc taps.

remove all your wiring and try again.

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Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta

Yes the 07 Suburban, Escalade, Tahe, Yukon, DTS, Impala, Lucerne, pretty much any of the newer style GM's, DO NOT tap the ignition wires to power anything! You can output to the wires AYOR if your doing a remote start or something, just don't use them for getting power. There is a GM document out on this as well I will post it if I get a chance.

Mike

guatemalan,

If all you did was what you've said, there's no reason for you to fry any computer. You simply overloaded a circuit. It happens sometimes. Dealerships frequently misdiagnose electrical problems.

No matter what kind of car, or what the particular circuit is, the circuits are fused for pretty much one reason------so that if the device suddenly draws too much current, OR the wiring chafes through and shorts to ground, the FUSE blows, to protect both the car's wiring, AND other expensive electronic devices.

So, if it really were true that a circuit overload destroyed a car's computer, that would be a pretty badly designed car!

Furthermore, new cars don't just have "the computer" anymore like they used to........there are separate modules that control the body, the powertrain.....I believe that Suburban even has computer modules in the doors! So, if someone is just telling you it's "the computer" that needs to be replaced, watch out.


There are quite a few 2-amp fuses on newer GM cars, and the one that feeds the ignition switch isn't clearly labeled. Grab your meter or test light, and re-test EVERY fuse in that car, both inside and underhood. You'll find it.

P.S.
I recently had to go and repair pretty much the EXACT same problem you're talking about.

In my case, it was an installer who connected a car alarm to the constant and switched wires at the keyswitch on a Chevy Malibu. The parking-light flash from the alarm drew more than 2 amps, of course blowing the Malibu's fuse.

The car would actually start, run, and drive, but many accessories didn't work right, and the computer was storing a lot of trouble codes.

The codes led the technician to suspect the wiring going to the instrument cluster.........he tested and found out the cluster wasn't getting switched power.......then he started to suspect the alarm and called my boss.

The one thing the tech did NOT do was test for power at the keyswitch, or check the fuses.

All I had to do was replace the fuse, move the alarm's constant-power wire to another location, and ask the dealer to reset the trouble codes.......no permanent damage.

I'm sure you're in the EXACT same situation I dealt with----the fuse blew, you didn't catch it, and the dealer didn't catch it either.