Ultrastart 4560, '97 F350
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=82113
Printed Date: July 18, 2025 at 3:30 PM
Topic: Ultrastart 4560, '97 F350
Posted By: hairbear65
Subject: Ultrastart 4560, '97 F350
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 9:23 AM
I'm installing a 4560 in my 97' F350. I've never done an install that included a alarm.. This unit ahs afew Auxiliary connectors on it. If you are a Ultrastart installer or have done a 4560 please PM me. I need help. Thanx Tom
Replies:
Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 10:05 AM
Why not try posting your questions here in the forum? This way anyone who may have the same problem in the future will benefit from the answers provided.
Posted By: hairbear65
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 10:24 AM
I would like to, but I have alot. The Ultrastart instructions are not very good in my opinion...they are very vague as to the proper hookups. Those that have done these..its probably second nature to them so...I was hoping to find an installer that can help me with it. I installed a 1250 in my wifes 4Runner, but I think I may have bit off more than I can chew with this model. I have the main connector in and the antenna, but all the auxiliary hook-ups are confusing me and the directions ain't helping. AUXILIARY SENSOR CONNECTOR(4 pin white)..is this needed?...and the other Auxiliary hook-ups. I know when to ask for help. Thanx Tom
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 10:38 AM
Auxilary 4 pin is most likely for a prewired shock sensor that they carry as an option.
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Steve G
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 10:50 AM
Ask a few questions at a time and I'll try to help until you understand it all.
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Steve G
Posted By: hairbear65
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 11:56 AM
First AUXILIARY CONNECTOR (4 PIN WHITE) 1-WHITE/ green LED(-) External LED output 2-black Dome Light(-) 250ma dome light supervision output 3-WHITE/ Blue Siren (+) output to activate siren (MENU 1@2) 4 Red Trunk Input(-) input to detect when trunk is open ?s 1/ is the LED req'd...I'm assuming this is for a visual for the thieves 2/Dome light.....Does this get tied into the door trigger 3/ Wh/Blue siren.....tie into red lead on siren...other black lead on siren to ground..Correct? 4/ Red..trunk input..its a pickup...Can I just eliminate this wire? This is a start...I appreicate any help you guys can offer....the trucks ripped apat in the drive and right now..its pouring out. Thanx Tom
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 12:19 PM
1. yeah it's just an optional. I'm assuming Ultrastart still has the 2 LEDs on the antenna that already serves as a flashing theft detterent when armed.
2. No this provides a transitorized output that is capable of driving a relay. You will need to add a relay to trigger the domelight. You will burnout the output wire if you connect it directly.
3. Correct, make sure it's set to provide a constant +12 volts in the programming menu.
4. You can just cut and tape off
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Steve G
Posted By: hairbear65
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 1:27 PM
Thanx Steve..the relay for the Dome light...I could get 12v to power the relay from anywhere..doesn't matter? Round Two...Aux 14 pin. 1- yellow re-arm(-) 0.75 second pulse when (lock symbol on remote) is pressed and after remote start shutdown. Used for factory alarm re-arm.......DO I NEED THIS AND IF SO...WHERE OR WHAT do i tie it into to? 2-Orange Anti-grind/starter kill (-) output active during remote start. progammable starter kill output. 3-Brown Dis-Arm (-) 0.75 second pulse when (lock symbol on remote) is pressed and before remote starter activation. used for factory alarm dis-arm. 4-RED / White trunk release...programmable output 5-WHITE/ purple Ground while Running(-) 250ma ground output while remote starter is activated 6-green door pin(-) input detect(-) when door is open 7-GREEN / WHITE Hood Pin (-) Input to detect ground when hood id open MUST BE CONNECTED 8- Purple Door pin (+) Input to detect 12v when door is open 9-pink Brake Light (+) Positive brake light switch input. used to detect the brake switch being applied. 10-black Ground(-) system ground chassis input 11-blue/white Tach(A/C) A/C tach signal input. 12- Diesel (+/-) Programmable wait to start input...applies to my truck..wh/pnk or blk/pnk in pass.kick panel 13-White Park light (+) 10amp positive output to activate park lights 14BLACK/ White Parking Brake(-) Input to detect (-) when parking brake switch is applied Man..Steve..I'm sorry for all the ?s and I do greatly appreciate you taking your time to help..more than you know. Tom
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 1:53 PM
round 2:
1. I dont believe you will need that wire for your truck.
2. this is optional. you can use a relay to break the starter wire in 2 while the alarm is armed. It also keeps you from accidentally regrinding the starter motor should you get into the remotely started truck and by habbit turn the key all the way over.
3. Disarm - depends on whether or not your truck has a factory security system. If so you wire it to the FACTORY ALARM DISARM DARK GREEN/ PURPLE (-) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
4. You shouldn't need this unless you want to use it to trigger a power window roll-up module or something.
5. This would be used to turn on a security ignition bypass but i don't believe that yours has one if it's a super-duty.
6. hook this to the wire that goes negative when you open any of the doors. Yours is Positive trigger so you wont use this wire.
7. You will need to drill a hole under the hood and install the hood pin. Then connect this wire to the hood pin. When the hood is up this wire should see ground on it.
8. This is the positive door pin input which you will use. connect it to DOOR TRIGGER BLACK/ BLUE (+) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
9. This will connect to the switch above the brake pedal and it should be: LIGHT GREEN (+)
10. connect to a good solid metal part under the dash. this needs to be a good solid connection or will cause headaches later. I usually find a small bolt and loosen it and put a ring terminal on the wire and tighten it back.
11. This is an important part of the remote starter and will be on a DIESEL... WHITE/ PINK located at the PCM (Powertrain Control Module) or at the Main Harness that runs on the inside of the firewall to the left of the brake pedal.
12. looks like you found that already
13.Run to the light switch and connect to BROWN @ HEADLIGHT SWITCH or in DRIVERS KICK PANEL
14. should only need if it's being installed on a manual transmisson vehicle. Is this automatic or manual?
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Steve G
Posted By: hairbear65
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 1:56 PM
Lock/Unlock Connector (4pin red) Green Lock(-) programmable 250ma LOCK Output Red 12volts 250ma 12volt output for relays Blue Unlock(-) PROGRAMMABLE 250MA UNLOCK output Pink 2nd Unlock(-) Ouput when (lock symbol) is pressed twice within three seconds AUXILIARY SENSOR CONNECTOR(4PIN White) Blue Pre-Warn Input Green Full Warn Input Black ground Output Red 12volt output Is this connector even needed...as I do not have any type shock sensors...as you stated before? AUXILIARY CONNECTOR (3PIN White) GREEn Horn(-) 250ma horn output. Programmable auxiliry #5 output Pink Auxiliry#6(-) 250ma auxiliary #6 output Blue Disconnect(+) Positive disconnect. Programmable positive start input. I think I know some of the hook-ups...but I'd like you to verfiy them Steve..if you don't mind. I have remote door locks on my Ford.....Do you know if I need relays to power my door locks or Do I just tap inot the factor system? Thats all the hookups on this thing... Thanx again Tom
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:28 PM
hairbear65 wrote:
Lock/Unlock Connector (4pin red)
Green Lock(-) programmable 250ma LOCK Output should hook to PINK / YELLOW wire
Red 12volts 250ma 12volt output for relays not needed
Blue Unlock(-) PROGRAMMABLE 250MA UNLOCK output
should hook to PINK/Lt GReen wire
Pink 2nd Unlock(-) Ouput when (lock symbol) is pressed twice within three seconds
not needed
AUXILIARY SENSOR CONNECTOR(4PIN White)
Blue Pre-Warn Input not needed
Green Full Warn Input "
Black ground Output "
Red 12volt output "
Is this connector even needed...as I do not have any type shock sensors...as you stated before?
If you want to add a sensor later you hook it here
AUXILIARY CONNECTOR (3PIN White)
GREEn Horn(-) 250ma horn output. Programmable auxiliry #5 output
Used to power an optional relay to blow the horn during alarm and arm/disarm
Pink Auxiliry#6(-) 250ma auxiliary #6 output optional accessories
Blue Disconnect(+) Positive disconnect. Programmable positive start input. This should be for adding a push button or temperature probe to activate remote start(optional)
I think I know some of the hook-ups...but I'd like you to verfiy them Steve..if you don't mind. I have remote door locks on my Ford.....Do you know if I need relays to power my door locks or Do I just tap inot the factor system? I think you should be okay to just hook to the small guage door trigger wires. Make sure the wires aren;t larger guage becasue those would require relays. So you want to hook into the same wires the keyless system is using.
Thats all the hookups on this thing...
Thanx again Tom
------------- Steve G
Posted By: hairbear65
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:34 PM
iskidoo wrote:
round 2:
1. I dont believe you will need that wire for your truck.
2. this is optional. you can use a relay to break the starter wire in 2 while the alarm is armed. It also keeps you from accidentally regrinding the starter motor should you get into the remotely started truck and by habbit turn the key all the way over.
3. Disarm - depends on whether or not your truck has a factory security system. If so you wire it to the FACTORY ALARM DISARM DARK GREEN/ PURPLE (-) IN DRIVERS KICK PANEL
4. You shouldn't need this unless you want to use it to trigger a power window roll-up module or something.
5. This would be used to turn on a security ignition bypass but i don't believe that yours has one if it's a super-duty.
6. hook this to the wire that goes negative when you open any of the doors. Yours is Positive trigger so you wont use this wire.
12. looks like you found that already
14. should only need if it's being installed on a manual transmisson vehicle. Is this automatic or manual?
So..I will be able to delete the first six wires. My truck is a OLD Body style Ford ..the 97' F350 still kept the old style body. It does not have any type of FACTORY security on it and its a automatic. On #12..Do I have to install a iamp diode inline for constant drain on the battery? I've read about this...just not sure it applies. I'm really not interested in the alarm on this...just wanted the LCD display that showed if the truck is locked or unlocked and if it is running or not. Those are the downfalls to my wifes system...Many times we've hit the buttons by accident...and the truck would run the 15minutes then shut-off....or if you're somewhere at a distance and you try and start it...you never know if it worked or not til you get to the vehicle. The less wires I need to hookup..the better. it seems like I'll be able to delete alot of them. Tom
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:39 PM
Not sure about the diode. Haven't done your particular truck but if you read that I wouldn't think it was a bad idea. It can't hurt to add it.
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Steve G
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:45 PM
Doesn't that unit have a setting that allows the unit to automatically wait 15 seconds before trying to start? I would use that instead of trying to wire the Wait-to-start.
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Steve G
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:52 PM
Look on page 19 of the install manual
Setting 2 14pin Connector- Gas/Diesel Mode (Blue wire on 14-pin)
1) (-) Input 1 Flash/chirp (-) Glow Plug input. Waits maximum 30 seconds then starts.
2) Time Delay 2 Flashes/chirps Waits for approximately 15 seconds then remote starts.
*3) Gas/ (+) Input 3 Flashes/chirps Waits 2 seconds to start if no diesel input is detected.
https://ultrastarters.com/manuals_download_pdf/English/MAN-45XX-INSTALL-U.pdf------------- Steve G
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 2:55 PM
Actually setting 1 looks like it may work as well without the need of actually hooking up the wire. It may just wait for a negative input but if it doesn't get one it just tries to start anyway after 30 seconds.
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Steve G
Posted By: hairbear65
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 3:58 PM
Have you ever installed a 4560A-XR-LT series? just wondering how good they really are. Still raining out so I'm on hold. Thanx Tom
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 4:01 PM
nope nothing 2-way from ultrastarts, mostly 1250 & 1250M and a 1600. I have a few XR units but they are 1 way units as well.
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Steve G
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 4:08 PM
I actually have the Viper 79oxv for the same reason as you. I wanted to know when and if I actually started my car from work cuz I couldn't see it. I was looking on here and reading about the new Viper 5900 which has 1 mile range. But since I already took out a perfectly good remote start/keyless unit to put in the 790xv, I think I'll just leave it for now.
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Steve G
Posted By: iskidoo
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 4:10 PM
I would definately hook up the few extra wires though if I were you to fully utilize the alarm features. It's not that much extra work.
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Steve G
Posted By: hairbear65
Date Posted: August 27, 2006 at 5:33 PM
Any idea what the brown wire is for....it has spade connectors on each end...it's at least 12or 14gauge wire. I can't find it in the manual. What about the Temp. sensor....where to put it? Under the hood? I really don't need an alarm... About the siren..The WHITE/ Blu wire on goes to the red on the siren and blck wire on siren to ground? I have the door locks hooked up...dug out the Blk/Blu white for the door pin then...it started raining again..had to stop. Thanx for all the help Steve. Tom
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