Anyone do one of these yet? Brand spanking new model for 2003! I get a chance to do remote start next week so I'll let you know how it goes. On techsoft it states that a extended pule on the door lock and unlock wires wil roll the windows down and up, how long of a pulse and will the go up or down?
I've done a handful of these---they're not too bad if you know a few tricks-----getting wires into the door seems impossible, but I've found a way. I had all the wire colors written down somewhere right near my desk, but now I can't find them. Oh well. But you have the colors if you've read the techsoft on it.
Dash disassembly: There's one gold 10mm/Phillips screw behind the hood release. After that, just pull the panel straight toward you.
Ignition wires: They're plainly visible; pretty straightforward. Don't forget to get both starter wires. The accessory wire looks like it just does the radio, but the climate controls don't work without it....so you need to power it up.
Parking lights/brake: Both are available in the large harness in the driver's kick, running to the rear of the car. Can also get parking lights at the dash dimmer.
Trunk release: It's blue, low current negative trigger, right at the switch on the dash. But there's a catch: It is disabled when the car's alarm is armed. Take your remote starter's trunk pop wire, and split it with two diodes. Send one to the blue trunk release wire, and the other to the car's unlock wire in the door. This will disarm the factory alarm and release the trunk at the same time.
Factory alarm during remote start: Forget what Techsoft says-----the car disarms itself under remote start----no special work is needed.
Tach and hoodpin: I haven't found either of these inside the car yet. The engine cover comes off with four 10mm bolts/nuts; you can get tach at one of the coils. Get hoodpin right at the hoodpin switch.
Getting wires under the hood: There's a factory grommet somewhere above the gas pedal I think; fish your wires through here. (And tie them in such a way that they don't get caught up in the pedal.) After this, you'll notice that your wires are in this little "closet" on the left-hand side of the engine compartment, with no easy way to get them out into where the engine is. At the front of the "closet," notice two black plastic dots......pry one of these dots out to reveal a hole.......put some split loom over your wires for protection, and slide them through the hole.
Doing the doorlocks and getting wires into the door: Here's the easiest way I've found to do it, and you don't even have to take the door panel off! I'm going to go into great detail on this so that you don't miss anything. Sorry for being so long-winded, but it'll be easier than it sounds once you go to do it.
First, pry the doorlock/window switch straight up. The lock/unlock wires are here; identify and test them.
Next, get your pick tool or a screwdriver, and a flashlight. Right below and behind where the rubber boot enters the car, is a little black plug; pry this out.
Go inside the car, to the driver's kick panel. You'll see the BCM at the bottom, and the fuse box at the top, both attached to a large metal bracket. At the top of the bracket are two gold 10mm/Phillips screws. Remove the screws and pry the bracket outward as far as you can; you'll see a thick piece of clear plastic behind it. Pull the plastic outward too.
Get yourself a piece of thick, stiff wire, about a foot and a half, maybe two feet long. A scrap piece of the thick ignition/starter/accessory wire coming from the remote start is good for this. Then, firmly tape a 4' length of speaker wire to this.
Crouch in the driver's door opening. Brace your left knee firmly against the driver's door to hold it open-----it would really suck if a co-worker walked by and bumped the door shut on your hands!
Take your right hand, and reach way behind that clear plastic that's behind the BCM.
Take the stiff wire in your left hand, and feed it into the hole below the door boot. You'll quickly see that there's only one possible way to point the wire where your right hand will be able to find it. It will take you several tries to get it going in the right direction, but if you're patient, you'll get it.
After the wire is fished through, get a length of 1/4" split loom. Starting at the door hinge area, slide it down over that length of speaker wire.......keep pushing it until at least 3 inches worth actually goes INSIDE that hole in the body.......you want to push it way in, so you have protection from chafing.
Now, just above the door speaker, pry the door panel outward just a bit. Feed the wire in here with your right hand, while reaching your left hand into the hole where the power window switch was. Pull it taut, and again, make sure at least a few inches' worth of loom is actually going into the area behind the door panel.
Use a zip tie or two, to secure your loom/speaker wire to the factory door boot.
The result doesn't look 100% factory, but I guarantee you no customer will ever notice it or be bothered by it. I'd prefer to do it this way, rather than possibly scratch up the door panel removing it, or compromising the factory moisture barrier inside the door.