First security and remote start

jquest03 wrote:

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Am i right to purchase the Directed 457GW bypass module?

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Yes, this will allow you to operate the doors without having to go into the door module.

jquest03 wrote:

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How many relays do i need to buy? and diodes?

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None

jquest03 wrote:

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Where should i put these relays? and diodes?

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Not needed in this installation.

jquest03 wrote:

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Where should i tap into for 12volts constant when testing for polarity? 

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Go straight to the battery in the back seat

jquest03 wrote:

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And will i need a separate power wire going to the battery to the brain of the unit?

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Go straight to the battery in the back seat

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

I've done only a couple of those cars, but I've done many Bonnevilles, LeSabres, Sevilles, Devilles.....they're all on the same platform; electrically, they're the same car. Except the Olds has the ignition switch mounted differently in the dash.

--The constant power at the ignition switch will work fine, as long as you're not installing extra-draw things like multiple sirens, window rollup modules, air horns, etcetera.

Since the ignition-switch constant wire is fused at 10 amps (under the hood, I think), it would be wise to remove the 30-amp fuses from the harness for the relay pack, and replace them with 7.5 or 5 amp fuses........that way, if your aftermarket wiring shorts out in the future, only those fuses blow........leaving the underhood fuse intact, and you can still drive the car.

--The brown radio-accessory wire doesn't need to be powered........ you have enough ignition/accessory/starter outputs from the remote start relay pack to power up everything else.....no extra relays will be needed.

(With the brown wire unpowered, the wipers will be inoperative when the remote starter is on, but that's a good thing! You wouldn't want the wipers straining against a dry windshield, or worse, stuck in ice, if you weren't there to turn them off.)

--I'm no fan of the 457G, but it'll do the job. It doesn't do two-stage unlocking, it doesn't turn on the domelight, it doesn't turn on the exterior lights at night...........on your car there's some extra wiring you have to do to prevent the "security" light from coming on............

the Trilogix GM-DLBP is a FAR superior piece, and it'll do all of that stuff, with no flaws, and no fancy wiring. The GM-DLBP also gives you a door trigger output that catches all four doors.

--For door trigger, hopefully the 457G has an output for it? that way, you won't need diodes, or relays, or fishing wire into the doors, or any of that.

You will be tempted to use the underdash courtesy light as a door trigger. That would work, however, it only operates at night.

--The negative-trigger parking light wire can be found coming right down the steering column; no need to chase down the DIM.

Make a note NOW to move the Clifford's parking light jumper to the negative position.....I am not sure if you'd cause any damage to the car if you mistakenly sent positive power to the car's parking light wire.

--I'm pretty sure the brake pedal switch will be there under the dash staring at you; no need to remove the kick panel if you don't want to.

--The ignition wires are REALLY tight to get to in this car.......plan for this, and allow patience. You can reach behind the ignition switch, unplug the plug, and that'll allow you to pull the wires straight and down, to make it just a little easier.

I tried removing the radio and climate control panel to get to the ignition wires from there, but it didn't help.

You might be tempted to skip installing the starter-kill feature, as that requires cutting the Olds' starter wire in half, and I wouldn't blame you. The PK3 should give you reasonable anti-theft protection anyway.

--You may or may not have noticed, but your car has a feature where it'll start perfectly, no matter how short or how long you hold the key to to the Start position....go ahead and try just bumping it, or holding it there a long time....it'll always start just right.

For that reason, you'll be okay if you don't want to use the underhood tach wire....it'll always start reliably in voltage-sense mode.

Chris Luongo wrote:

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You will be tempted to use the underdash courtesy light as a door trigger. That would work, however, it only operates at night.
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courtesy light as a door trigger? Who, what, when, where, why, how???? haha- I dont konw what you are trying to tell me here.

Thanks a ton for all that information.   You guys are awesome.

So i have to purchase the GMDL-BP.  Where can i get this from?  Most shops around here only carry directed products.

Now i have to

GMDL-BP can be purchased from Trilogix ( www.bypasskit.com ) or any dealer of theirs.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

As far as the courtesty light I'm talking about. When you go to take down the driver's side lower dash, you will see a lamp there that shines down onto the floor. It is wired up equally to the overhead domelight, and behaves the same way.

On older/simpler cars, installers routinely use the domelight wiring as the alarm's door trigger.........after all, the domelight comes on when the door is opened, right? And that's when we want the alarm to go off.

But, on several of the newer GM luxury cars, as well as my 1990 Toronado Trofeo, the car is designed so that the domelight is not operative in the daytime, presumably to save battery power.

Therefore, if you tried to use the wire from that courtesy light as your alarm's door trigger, it would actually work but ONLY at night, which wouldn't be very secure!

---Just because a lot of your local dealers carry DEI alarms, doesn't mean they only use DEI for their bypass modules......just call a few of them and ask them if they carry the GM-DLBP, and get some prices.

(Don't bother mentioning the Trilogix name, as the GM-DLBP is rebadged under different brand names as well, including Peripheral. Just ask them for the part number and hopefully they'll know what you're talking about.)