ScyTek remote start
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=82634
Printed Date: July 05, 2025 at 12:16 AM
Topic: ScyTek remote start
Posted By: geauxnow
Subject: ScyTek remote start
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 3:38 PM
Hi, I have recently installed this Scytek alarm with remote start in my 2000 Suburban with keyless entry. Everything works great....with one exception. Once the remote start button is activated, the accessories energize, then the car attempts to start. It will crank, but never turn over. I have tied into the tach wire per instruction, I have configured the remote start module using the dip switches. I can start the car with the key, activate the remote start, and remove my key leaving the vehicle running. Leaving the key resting in the ign. cylinder will not start it either.
Replies:
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 3:47 PM
Where did you get the tach at? try to be as specific as possible. It sounds like you don't have the right wire. What did you use to bypass the passlock II?
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Posted By: geauxnow
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 3:56 PM
I don't have the wiring sheet in front of me, but best I can remember it came from the plug closest to the fender from the ECM, I think terminal 10. White wire for sure. Maybe my splice sucks
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 3:58 PM
Well I get the tach the easy way, take out the gauge cluster and its the white wire in the harness there is only 1 plug and 1 white wire, solder this connection. this should help... -------------
Posted By: geauxnow
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 4:16 PM
What's the best way to get access behind the gauges?
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 4:53 PM
You'll have to take the trim piece off the front of your dash it is 1 big piece that goes over around radio/heat controls and back around/over gauge clusterh. You'll need to move your shift lever all the way down to first to make removing this possible. Once that is removed you'll have 4- 7mm screws to remove and the gauge clsuter will be removable, you'll then see the plug as described.
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Posted By: geauxnow
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 6:23 PM
Wait a sec, if the tach wire isn't signaling to the alarm module, then wouldn't the starter continue to crank and crank?
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 6:30 PM
Test the wire you think is a tach lead with a mulit meter, i'll bet as soon as the ignition is energized it shows voltage not when the vehicle is running ie telling the remote start that is running so the remote start will not engage the starter. -------------
Posted By: geauxnow
Date Posted: September 08, 2006 at 8:06 PM
That white I think is tach is only delivering 6vdc with ignition on and at rest. So looking at the wiring to the inst. cluster, which one is the tach wire? The white there delivers 12v with ign. in on, and started.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 09, 2006 at 7:10 AM
geauxnow,
Did you catch xtremej's second question, in his first response to you?
Have you performed some sort of interface with the car's PASSLock II anti-theft system.......either with resistors and/or relays (not highly recommended) or a bypass module like a DEI 555L, Audiovox AS-GM4, etcetera?
--Turn the ignition on with the key, and observe all the dash lights that come on. You'll see a square panel in the lower-left of the instrument cluster..........it should first light up orange and say "SECURITY," and then change into a red picture of a battery and stay that way.
--Next, turn the key off and try the remote start......is that square panel behaving the same way, or differently?
--If you get a flashing "SECURITY" icon when attempting to remote start, your PASSLock bypass isn't right.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 09, 2006 at 7:12 AM
Also, if you have any suspicion that your tachometer connection is incorrect, simply re-program the unit for voltage-sensing, temporarily.
If the remote start works with voltage sense........you'll want to fix your tach connection and then re-program the unit for tach.
On the other hand, if it won't work at all even with voltage sense, then your problem lies elsewhere.
Posted By: geauxnow
Date Posted: September 09, 2006 at 10:32 AM
I used the Passlock II bypass module that was provided in the package. I get the 'red battery' when attempting to remote start. I'll change to voltage sense and retry.
Posted By: geauxnow
Date Posted: September 09, 2006 at 11:19 AM
Just discovered my alarm doesn't have the voltage sense capability, but it does have crank time. So i set it to regular and then extended crank time and it won't turn over. My problem must be with the bypass module.
Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: September 09, 2006 at 1:46 PM
I am not 100% sure but it should crank start and shut off right away if the bypass is not working. I believe it is a fuel system disabling system. -------------
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 09, 2006 at 4:43 PM
I have never seen a remote starter that includes a Passlock bypass module; it is usually a separate, extra cost part. Unless maybe you bought the product from a a seller who put together a package deal for you.
What is the name and part number on the Passlock bypass?
Also, as I asked in one of my previous posts, is the 'SECURITY' icon flashing on the dash when you try to remote start?
Posted By: geauxnow
Date Posted: September 09, 2006 at 9:39 PM
I'm using the Omega DB PASS-23. The security light flashes until I activate remote start. Then the accessories energize, the red battery lights, it cranks, and does not start. This repeats for two more times then it rests.
Posted By: geauxnow
Date Posted: September 10, 2006 at 11:07 AM
Ok I got it started. Turns out the switch settings were bass-ackwards from what I had it. Dang thing used a picture diagram, and I think it would have been easier to say 1 and 2 up (or on). 3 down. Thanks for the help.
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