2006 Toyota Corolla Keyless Location

PLEASE HELP!
I have a 2006 Toyota Corolla with the factory keyless entry. I have added remote start to the factory unit. When the car is started, the remote is disabled and you cant lock/unlock the vehicle with the remote if its started. I believe the factory keyless module receives a signal form the ignition not allowing the vehicle to use the remote. If I interupt the wire going from the ignition to the module, my problem is solved. Thanks for any help! I'm having a tough time.

Levi02
LeviGraves@GMail.Com

That comes up alot.

Not possible.

Better off using aftermarket remotes.

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Note: You Always Dont Get What You Pay For.

your breaking your head for nothing.

most all remote starters have the doorlock buttons on the remote....just hook up them up and forget the factory remote.

lock = blue/white on blue plug in DKP

unlock = blue / YELLOW w/ silver dots(double pulse) on blue plug in DKP

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Testing is the key

Yep, that's how Toyotas are.

I managed to locate the factory keyless receiver in a new '07 Camry....... it comminucates with the rest of the car by databus signal..... there is no ignition on/off wire to be bypassed.

It's only two wires for lock and unlock on that car....one more wire if you want to hook up horn....even if you could manage to keep the factory remotes working with the engine running, it would hardly be worth all the extra trouble.

Maybe you can get yourself an RS/keyless/panic unit, but the same brand as the one you have already installed........that way, you could re-use most of the wiring you've already hooked up.

I've been struggling with the same problem on a 2006 Rav4, because I want to keep the factory remotes (that are on the keys) and not have an extra fob.

As Cris stated, since the wireless door module communicates on a databusline, there is no way you can just disconnect/connect the wire, the ECU is the one that actually controls the locking/unlocking and it won't send the lock signal when it thinks the car is running. IF you could identify which ignition wire going into the main ECU controls this function, your could put it on a relay while the car is running on the remote start, but who knows what else wlll happen. It would probably break the ECU.

I downloaded a reference (DL 45 on Toyota's manual for 2006 RAV4) that states the wireless door "UNLOCK function operates even when the key is inserted into the ignition key cylinder. However, the igition switch must be OFF." but I can't get it to do it. So either it's a misprint or there maybe a possibility of putting a relay on the keysense wire. As for changing a setting (customise parameters) for the wireless door lock control system, there are none that let you change this.

I am looking into a Code Alarm Telematics upgrade module (CAUGM on ebay or Google for $5.00) that can use the signals from the factory keyless and also has door lock/unlock outputs, it may be able to bypass the ECU lock control while the remote start is running. The problem is the keyfob I have doesn't have a trunk release (3rd option), it will only work via a satelite signal to remote start.

mrgaddet,

I've looked at one of those CAUGM things in person. I don't believe it'll do what you want.

The instructions that come with the thing are terrible. I will make some attempt to explain what the piece is really for......although since the manual was so difficult to read, I might be wrong.

--First, you need to buy/have the CL100 Telematics module. $200 retail, including unlimited lifetime service.

--Normally, the CL100 plugs into a port on late-model Audiovox alarms and remote starters (including Code, Prestige, Pursuit).

--When you dial a telephone number and put in your password, a paging system sends your command to the CL100.

Then, the CL100 sends a command, via data through its own proprietary plug, to the Audiovox alarm........and then the car starts, or unlocks, or whatever you asked for.

--Normally, if you don't have or don't want an Audiovox alarm, the CL100 is useless.

--The CAUGM plugs into the CL100........reads and interprets the CL100's data signal........and then puts out regular, 12-volt-negative signals that you could use for whatever you want.

--You could use those outputs to activate a different-brand remote starter.........or if you car had no alarm whatsoever, you could use the output to directly unlock the power door locks.

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About the key-in-the-ignition thing with the Toyota:

1. Like they say, if the car is OFF, and the key is IN the ignition, generally you can ONLY unlock......no lock or panic.

2. Once the ignition is switched on, however, the entire keyless system stops working, even the unlock.

3. Unless the Toyota happens to have a factory alarm, installers generally leave the keysense wire alone when installing a remote start.

Therefore, when the remote starter is running, it's the equivalent of the ignition(s) and accessory being on, but the keysense wire being broken or disconnected.........and still, the factory remotes don't work at all.

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I know the key/remote combo for the new Toyotas looks cool and is easy to carry.......but are you aware that there is no anti-theft transponder on the RAV4? If you were willing to live with aftermarket remotes, you could just make some ordinary copies of your keys for a few bucks, and toss the originals in the drawer.

If you are super, super creative, maybe you could gut out the factory remote, and make an aftermarket remote fit in there, and it would look like factory.

Also, if you are not too concerned about break-ins, you could connect the remote starter's "factory disarm" output to unlock only the driver's door before remote start, and then you could easily get in.

Chris,

Thanks, I'm actually using a code alarm 410A remote start system, (got it installed yesterday) and I have the CL100 plugged in to it, but when I tried to fax in the Telematics activation the fax number came back disconnected, website is also gone. Anyone know of another number? I know other people are using these systems.

As for the CAUGM, (which I also picked up because it's so cheep) there are lock and unlock command wires out of the module. So I'm thinking of using them directly to the drivers door ONLY when the remote start is running, I think I can use a relay, not sure how yet. I think this may be a way around the Toyota/Lexus/Scion wireless disable when car is on - problem.

And thanks again for the help, I've read several of your posts here and you really know what your talking about. Too bad I'm not located in the same state, I'd just bring my car to you and pay to get this working.

Here is my issue... My mother in-laws car has a screwed power lock module and I'm going to replace it using a pair of relays. Now, I've found the two wires from the door switch and they are (-) but the two wires in the blue plug, do I need to apply a (+) or a (-) signal to them?

Thanks for any help guys :)

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Check all advice given with a meter

Be carefull, we have been looking for solutions to this and they have been costly. We tried on a new Highlander, the BCM is located behind the glovebox and communicates to the fuse box via data link. We tried killing power to the BCM while running and it ended up with a problem(the driving lights stpped working, also controlled by the BCM. we eneded up buying a new BCM. Since then we gave up trying. We do however now install only RS that have separate remotes(like the Avox which has a small 1 button remote) instead of ones that work on factory remotes.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

ok, well here is an update on my progress....?!?!?! <~~~thats about the extent of it :(

My trick with the relays didn't work and I'm not sure why.

I found the red wire and the blue wire for the door locks. I tried applying power directly to the drivers door actuator and still nothing happened. Is perhaps the drivers door act. the control module and that I need to replace that actuator?

How do I get this thing running again? It doesn't have keyless entry, just power locks.

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Check all advice given with a meter

If the power lock module is bad you can't make them work by simply supplying current to the switch wires. You need to simulate what the module does, which means you need to 5 wire the motor leg wires...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

the idea behind it all was this...

Take a feed from the unlock trigger wire and feed it into a relay that would in turn supply current to the main power wire running to the actuator themselves. Then do the same for the lock side of things. Sure, it wouldn't be a pulse set-up but I did expect to see some results.

Not sure if thats what you think I was doing or not but can you explain why that wouldn't work please? TO me it sounded pretty simple and straight forward. But obviously I was wrong.

The only reason I think it's the power lock module is because when I press the switch I hear the relay in the dash click but there is no action.

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Check all advice given with a meter

its a corolla right?  and the power door locks dont' work through the switch anymore?  Ive had this happen to me from probing the wrong lock wires with a test light "i know i know worst idea ever"  If you insert the key into the key cylinder  in the door and turn it back and forth does it reset your problem?

Have you checked all fuses, under the dash and under the hood?

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

yes, the fuses under the hood and dash were my first point of call. No, I didn't find anything blown....on that note, who makes a dash panel that can'e be removed without removing the steering wheel.....that was a butt! LOL

Haven't tried the key lock cylinder as I didn't know that it was possible. Is there a cetain technique that needs to be used?

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Check all advice given with a meter