Printer Friendly Forum Posts - 2002 Ford F-150, Viper 791XV Alarm/Remote Start

It's been a while since I've done one of those trucks, but here are some suggestions.

1. Make sure that you really want to do this yourself first - Viper alarms' warranty is void if they aren't installed by a dealer.

2. With that said...siren can go on the firewall without too much trouble. LED - on the top half of the steering column shroud, or in a switch blank anywhere on the dash. Valet switch - zip tied so that it's accessible when you pull off the fuse panel cover.

3. The main brain I'd suggest putting either behind the instrument cluster or between the heater controls and the radio. Both of these locations are a pain in the rear and involve taking a couple more panels off, but they'll also make the brain that much less accessible to a thief than if you did it the lazy way and put it right under the driver's side dash. The satellite relay module can go right near the ignition harness.

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C Renner's Auto Electronix
My service is cheap, quick, and good - pick any two

i installed a viper 791xv on my truck about 3 weeks ago. i was looking through the manual and it says to disarm my alarm i can press the valet button so many times. is it come set with a number or do i have to program it for that number or what do i do?

it is set for 1 press as the default. You can set it to any number 1-5 in the programming menu.

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Life moves pretty fast; if you don't stop and look around once in a while; you could miss it.

the way you disable your alarm if its going off and remote will not work
you open door with key while alarm is armed. find you switch. turn the key to run possition wait a second than press and release valet switch once the alarm should shut down. but you need to count to like 2 before you press the switch after you turn the key on. if the set number is more than one than you still wait a sec then press switch set number of times.

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Jon
Installer/Help Technician
---coral springs florida---
mecp certification is not always needed. I have it and it has not helped me out at all. my experience out shines it.

i have a flash logic CAXK04FDPK bypass kit. i dont have instructions for installing it though. i was wondering if anybody knew where i could find them. thanks

try https://xpressdownload.com/

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Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

i have this bypass kit for my 02 f-150. https://www.bypasskit.com/Manuals/XK04_PKFORD%20D12_I_EN.PDF
my question is where do i find the TX and RX wires in the truck and how to test for them?

also i am using this with a viper 791xv. what wire does the brown (ground when running) on the bypass module go to on the alarm?

will i need any relays or anything special for this to work?

thanks.

The instructions on this link you posted are exact. It tells where to find the wires needed.

Ground while running....Them crazy DEI guys call it status output.

what about the orange wire on my alarm. the 200mA 2nd accessory output. i was told i have to use that too. how does that work? soemthign with a relay and 3rd ignition?

There is only 1 ign but 3 accys on the truck if you want to use it (I don't think you have to) org to pin 85 , ground 86, 12v to 30 , an 87 to your 2nd or 3rd accy wire.

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

oh ya my bad. it was 3rd accy not ignition. so i dont have to use it? what does it do if i do hook it up?

no probably not it wil controle some of the misc convenience features on the vehicl.. If something that you need to fire up on rem start doesn't work then hook it up. But genrally no , you wont need it

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Tire Proz Stillwater Mn
High End Restyling and Comlete Repair

ok so my check engine soon light came on. i had my remote start installed about a week before. i used it off and on and then one time i used it the light came on. i got my truck, a 02 ford f-150, scanned and it read 6 codes but some were repeats. it had P0460 (Fuel Level Sensor Circuit Malfunction), P0301(Cylinder 1 Misfire Detected), and P0316(cant find). i used this site to tell me what they were.
https://autorepair.about.com/cs/troubleshooting/l/bl_obd_main.htm

so i had the codes cleared and just today the light came back on when i did hte remote start. the thing is nothing seems to be acting strange in my truck. for the missfire code my truck engine seems to be running like normal. and the light did not come back on until i used the remote start. so what im asking is what could be wrong in the remote start installation? what do i need to change to keep the light from coming on? has anybody else had this problem with fords? i have the viper 791xv with a flashlogic CAXK04FDPK bypass kit. so any help on this would really help. thanks

P0316 Misfire Detected on Starup (First 1000 revolutions).
Misfire Detected on Starup (First 1000 revolutions.
Check for any other codes that may cause a misfire.
Ignition System

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dragon

That fuel-level circuit code you have is the tipoff.

Read this post if you want. Maybe print it and bring it to your installer:
Ford Focus check-engine light trouble

Basically, there's the EXACT same problem on two different Fords. A Focus I worked on, and a Taurus by another installer.

TWO TESTS FOR YOU TO MAKE:

1. Remote start the truck, and watch the dash gauges and the digital odometer........do they come on instantly, or does it take 10-15 seconds extra?

2. Do the windshield wipers work when the truck is remote started?

If the gauges don't come on right away, and the wipers don't work, the second-accessory wire is not being powered. It's also possible that the air-conditioning compressor won't work under remote start.

Anyway, it should be an easy fix; have the installer rewire the remote starter so that that extra accessory wire is powered.

In the future, be sure to switch off your windshield wipers when you park........you wouldn't want to remote-start the truck while the wipers are jammed up in ice or something.

The installer should be able to clear the codes and the light by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

If he's a real pro, he'll write down your radio presets before doing so, re-set them to your radio, and re-set your clock.

Sounds like you missed an IGN or ACC wire to me. Make sure you double check your wiring.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA

RED / black 2nd accesory isn't powered, there's only 1 ign needed on that truck but two acc, grey / YELLOW and RED / black.

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Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta

Shaughn, I would normally agree with you-----

I rarely or never power up the radio-accessory wire on Fords, and I've had very little trouble.

On the light-duty Ford trucks, though, if you've noticed...........when you first remote start them, the dash gauges and digital odometer are dead......after about 10 seconds they finally wake up.

I've always gotten away with that, and had no troubles.

But, look at my post over at carsound.com about that Focus. On all the Foci I've done in the past, I've NEVER powered anything but the one main ignition wire.........and I had no problems, until just that one car.

And another guy there said the same thing about a Taurus.....another car in which I've never powered the radio wire.

So, this fix has worked for two other Fords; might be a good thing to try for this one.

There may be three accessory wires that need to be powered up and one ignition. There ae versions of these trucks that use two RED / black wires in the ignition harness. One is an ignition and one is accessory. Have the installer recheck that the wires he has tied into are hooked up the correct thing. If an accessory wire is hooked up as an igntion strange problems will occur. The listing I have is Ignition is either RED / Black or Blue/Green. The three possible accessory wires are Reb/Black, Gray / YELLOW and BLACK/ Green. Also make sure that the ground for the remote starter is into the chassis and not a piece of steel in the dash.

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sparky

Chris Luongo wrote:

Shaughn, I would normally agree with you-----

I rarely or never power up the radio-accessory wire on Fords, and I've had very little trouble.

On the light-duty Ford trucks, though, if you've noticed...........when you first remote start them, the dash gauges and digital odometer are dead......after about 10 seconds they finally wake up.

I've always gotten away with that, and had no troubles.

But, look at my post over at carsound.com about that Focus. On all the Foci I've done in the past, I've NEVER powered anything but the one main ignition wire.........and I had no problems, until just that one car.

And another guy there said the same thing about a Taurus.....another car in which I've never powered the radio wire.

So, this fix has worked for two other Fords; might be a good thing to try for this one.

Radio accesory is BLACK/ green.

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Shaughn Murley
Install Manager, Dealer Services
Visions Electronics
Red Deer, Alberta

well i know the 200mA 2nd accessory output from the alarm is not hooked up. is that the wire that may be causing it?

trouble shooting tip.

posted_image

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dragon

extreme1 wrote:

RED / black 2nd accesory isn't powered, there's only 1 ign needed on that truck but two acc, grey / YELLOW and RED / black.

so when you say that are you talking about my 200mA 2nd accessory wire (orange wire) from my alarm needs to be powered or is it some other wire? i know that my 200mA 2nd accessory wire is not hooked up. would that mean i need to have it hooked up to a relay? im new to the whole car alarm thign and i dont want to screw anything up worse. lol. thanks for all the help.

i checked about my gauges just now and when i remote start my truck they take a little bit to turn on.

No, not the 200ma accessory output........we're talking about the multitude of different ignition and accessory wires coming from the Ford's steering column.

Regardless, are you trying to get this figured out because of curiosity, or you're tying to help out your installer, or you plan to fix it yourself?

Any good shop would be eager to correct their mistakes........call them, set up a time, get it back there, and have them fix it.

Do you want to do a little bit of troubleshooting on your own?

If you want to verify my theory, here's how:

1. Disconnect truck battery for a minute or two, then reconnect.

2. Start engine with key, let it run a couple of minutes......verify that the check-engine light is OFF.

3. Activate the remote start. As it is cranking the starter, quickly begin to insert your key in the ignition.........the very moment it finishes cranking and the engine starts, BANG! quickly move the key backwards to the radio position.

Leave it just like that......running with the remote start, key in the accessory position.........leave it like that for a few minutes.

I'd be willing to bet you get no check-engine light.

4. Kill the remote start by hitting the brake, and remove your key.

Activate the remote start like you normally would, and let it run for a few.

Is the check-engine light back?

im trying to figure this out because i installed it in a class at my school, but my teacher helped. i want to get more into the car install scene and learn more about everyhting. so im planning to fix this myself. so if i do what you said what does that prove? what do i need to fix? i do have a t-harness hooked up.

If you did what I list above, and it works out the way I predict, it proves that you need to power up the BLACK/ green radio-accessory wire during remote start.

I could be wrong---Extreme1 disagrees with me and thinks that powering the BLACK/ green is not necessary---but I think it is worth checking out.

Regardless, if the check-engine light comes on when using the remote starter, but not when using the key.....

That tells us that one or more of the truck's ignition or accessory circuits are not being powered up during remote start...........or that one or more circuits are not being powered correctly...........an ignition wire is powered as an accessory, or the opposite.

---If my test above works out, it proves that all you need to do is power up that one radio-accessory wire.

---If my test proves nothing, or if you choose not to do it..........another method would be to simply ensure that EVERY wire in the ignition-switch harness is being powered up EXACTLY as it would have been while starting the car with the key.........that should be a sure-fire fix too.

ok well i did the test but the light never came on when i remote started it. the first time i remote started my truck it took 5 days of using the remote start before the light came on. the gauges take about 15 seconds to turn on after the truck is on. so since that test didnt really work do i test all the wires to to see if they are working or what? and if i do have to power up the BLACK/ green or some other wire how do i do that?

any other input that could help me?

Chris Luongo wrote:

The installer should be able to clear the codes and the light by disconnecting the battery for a few minutes.

If he's a real pro, he'll write down your radio presets before doing so, re-set them to your radio, and re-set your clock.

If he was a real pro he would have an OBD II reader and just erase the codes. hehehehe... JK...

At anyrate just power all the ign and acc the exact way the car would normally do it and it would be a sure way to fix the problem.

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Certified Security Specialist
Always check info with a digital multimeter.
I promise to be good.
Tell Darwin I sent you.

I've been sick lately, sorry I won't be on much.

ya but how do i power them up? thats what i dont understand. i need more of an explanation on how to do that instead of just telling me to do it.

anybody? how do i power the wires up?

come on guys. this was going good in the begining and now no one is answering. how do i power up the wires and fix my problem? please help.

The wires you need to power up are:

Ignition - Blue/green Accessory 1 - RED / black Accessory 2 - Gray / YELLOW Starter - RED / blue

If you do not have another high-current accessory lead from the alarm, use a relay to power up your 2nd accessory wire by giving terms. 87 and 86 12v+ battery(fused @ 20amps should be fine), term.85 will hook up to the 200ma. wire you mentioned before, and term.30 will go to the 2nd accessory circuit in the truck.

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time is bending.....

no offense to jimmy but could i get another verfication on that from a higher level person. not saying you dont know what your saying but you are a rookie to the site and i dont want to screw anything up in my truck.

come on guys. this was going good in the begining and now no one is answering. how do i power up the wires and fix my problem? please help.

read what u wrote at else someone answerd he maybe a rookie to the site he knows what hes talking about iam a rookie to the site to but i have doing installs for a fews yrs give your e-mail address and i will send u a disk on interfacing vechicle wiring.

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dragon

ya i know. i was hoping some of the guys who replied earlier would continue to help me. but i do appreciate. my email is stormraider04@hotmail.com thanks for the help

thanks dea,can for that file. it is a graet file. where did you get it? im going to print it out and put it in a binder for reference. and thanks jimmy you were right. sorry i didnt trust you bc of your status.

now i just need a sunny day to do the work.

ok i have a problem. you say to power up accessory 2. well im using a t-harness (FD-1) i beleive i got it from bulldogsecurity.com and im testing the wires in the T-harness and the only wire that is testing like an accessory wire is the one that i have going to my remote start. i know on my truck harness it has 2 wires that are measuring as accessories. but when i do a continuity test on the accessory wires with the wires in the T-harness it shows that a 12v constant wire in the t-harness is connected to one of the accessories. so would this t-harness automatically power up that wire? am i just doing something wrong? or do i just power up the accessory that is going to my remote start?

ok i need to find my second accessory wire in a 02 f-150 to power it up for my remote start. i have 2 different sites for a vehicle wiring diagram and one tells me one thing and another tells me another thing. one says my accessory wire is RED / black and that the gray / YELLOW is 2nd ignition. the other one says my accessory wire is gray / YELLOW and my 2nd ignition is RED / black. both say my 2nd accessory is BLACK/ green. the BLACK/ green wire is hooked up to my remote start right now. and when i test the gray / YELLOW wire and the RED / black wire both have 0v when key is at accessory and when truck is off. when i go to start both get 12v. when i crank the truck they both go to 0v. and when its started they are up to 14v. so both the gray / YELLOW and the RED / black wires are doing the same thing but both are suppose to be different. so i need help with this. im confused. i tested all my other wires and they are working like they should and go along with both wire diagrams. the only difference between the wire diagrams is what i said above. so i need help to figure this out. thanks

so do i just power up my accessory that is already going to the remote start? shouldnt i have 2 wires that are accessory and act the same?

please help

Go with what you catually test in the vehicle, if it tests as an accessory than it is. Diagrams imo are only to get you in the right direction, varification with a meter is the only absolute answer..Are you still getting the service light?

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It's difficult to categorize those two wires because they are neither the traditional ACC nor IGN.

As a general rule of thumb, we call an ACC whatever has no voltage during crank and IGN does have voltage during crank.

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

yes im still getting the light. so do i just power up one of those then? or do i power up the BLACK/ green even though it is already hooked up to the alarm?

Power everything! Lotsa relays! posted_image

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Prepare your future. It wasn't the lack of stones that killed the stone age.

Yep, power it all!!!! On Fords, if it gets power with the key i power with a relay....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

gray / YELLOW and RED / black are both accessories and both need to be powered during remote start. BLACK/ green does not need to be powered during remote start, all it does is turn on the radio. blue/green should be ignition, and yellow or GREEN/ purple for 12volts.

oh, and RED / blue for starter.

so you guys check all the wires with the key and then with the remote start and compare? and say the gray / YELLOW is getting power during key and not remote start i put my relay to the gray / YELLOW?

If i remember right gray / YELLOW was the blower motor wire and is accessory, so it must be powered but doesn't need to during start. It can be wires as ignition or accessory but it must be powered...

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

vitrox has it right.

--The gray / YELLOW is for the heater........ power that up as an accessory.

--The RED / black, I don't know what it's for, but if you don't power it up, you'll get an ABS light during remote start. Power it up as an accessory.

--The BLACK/ green is for the radio and wipers, and those are two things you don't want turning on during remote start......... you should be fine to just leave it unpowered.

--You didn't mention what brand of unit you're installing, but most have 2 ignition outputs, and 1 accessory output.

Simply connect the ignition 2 output to the RED / black on the Ford, but if the remote starter's programming menu allows it, program it for "off during crank."

NOTE: As others here have said, never go hooking stuff up just because a tech sheet (or us!) tell you it's the right wire...... a good installer ALWAYS TESTS the wires to verify that they're right.

ok i tested the gray / YELLOW wire and the RED / black to see what they were doing during remote start. both power up during the key turning the truck on. when i remote start my truck the gray / YELLOW powered up just like it did with the key. the RED / black did not power up like it did with the key. so i powered that one up and now my gauges turn on like they are suppose to and do not have that delay of 15 secs. so should that fix my problem or may there be more wires that i need to check?