12v constant fuse problem
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=82895
Printed Date: July 19, 2025 at 7:08 PM
Topic: 12v constant fuse problem
Posted By: bigbodychevy
Subject: 12v constant fuse problem
Date Posted: September 14, 2006 at 9:39 PM
I have a 92 Chevy Lumina Euro (sedan). I had a Code Alarm CA610 installed over 2 years ago. I had the alarm installed when I worked for a local Retailer HHGregg. They no longer sell or support car audio or security. I helped the installer do the install, I have car audio install experiance, but this was my first remote start install so I wanted to watch and learn. After helping him do my car I did my wifes CA 610 in her 97 Grand Am SE by myself. I also wired in 4 door actuaters for my lumina. about a month ago my enterior dash lights went out and the alarm died all with in 24 hours after my car was jump started. Being buisy I never tore it down to look at it untill today after work. I dismatled the dash and found the 30amp fuse on the constant 12v was blown. I replaced the fuse and it blew with in seconds of being installed. I called the buddy that did 90% of the install (who now lives 2 hours away) he says that im grounded out some where and need to track it down. Any help or advice for this amature would be greatly appriciated. Cold weather is getting closer in Indiana. My constant 12v shows 12v on my DMM. How do I check the continuity to find the wire that is grounded out? Would it not be smart to swap the 30amp bus fuse out for a 40amp. Am I drawing more current due to the aftermarket doorlocks? If so why did it work for almost 2 years before I started blowing fuses.
Replies:
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 14, 2006 at 10:04 PM
If the 30-amp fuse worked for two years, it is big enough. A 40-amp fuse would probably blow too.
Or, if you put in a fuse that's big enough, the wires would melt and start a fire.
There really aren't that many places for the constant-power wire to short out. It shouldn't be hard to find. You'll probably need to drop the dash to look around, but that's not too hard.
Inspect the wiring between the fuse holder and the brain. Pay special attention to areas where it passes by sharp metal objects, or things that might move around, like the brake pedal mechanism and things like that.
Does all of the wiring for your power locks share the same fuse, or is that separate?
If they share the same fuse, temporarily cut the constant-power wire for the locks out of the system, and then replace the fuse again........if it doesn't blow now, it's got something to do with the locks.
Posted By: bigbodychevy
Date Posted: September 14, 2006 at 10:08 PM
THanks for the quick reply. The dash is dropped already, the brain is on the floor. The keyless was installed with in a week of the remote start. I really wanted this done before work in the AM. Probably should of waited to do it till this weekend. I'll be right back after another look. Thanks again
Posted By: bigbodychevy
Date Posted: September 14, 2006 at 10:30 PM
I could not see any obvious cuts or bare wire. I took another look just to make sure I didnt miss anything on the first pass earlier this evening. How do I test the continuity of the wire? The white fuse holder on the upper right hand corner is the 12volt constant fuse. I traced the 12volt to the brain and back up to the ignition harnest and saw no bare metal. [img]https://img1.putfile.com/thumb/9/25623265280.jpg[/img]
Posted By: bigbodychevy
Date Posted: September 14, 2006 at 10:31 PM
[IMG]https://img1.putfile.com/thumb/9/25623265280.jpg[/IMG]
Posted By: bigbodychevy
Date Posted: September 14, 2006 at 10:32 PM
Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: September 15, 2006 at 3:33 PM
try isolating the circuit... what else is connected to this wire? unplug the brain... does it still blow the fuse? if not then it's not a short on the wire itself.... is your keyless system drawing current from this wire also? disconnect it.. does the fuse still blow? it should be fairly easy to isolate wherre the short is....
-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer
Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979
Posted By: dualsport
Date Posted: September 15, 2006 at 7:45 PM
A suggestion for trying to isolate the problem: get an old headlight bulb or something that draws a good bit of current, and connect that in place of the fuse as you poke around.
If it lights up full brightness, and you see the full battery voltage across the bulb, then you have a dead short on the line. You can then try jiggling harnesses, unplugging the components on the line, and if you see the light go out or get dim, then you're on the track of the problem. When you're reasonably certain you have it sorted out, then you can try the real fuse, and hopefully it'll hold up.
Posted By: bigbodychevy
Date Posted: September 16, 2006 at 5:57 PM
Thanks for the help fellas. I found the problem. Not sure wich one fixed it but. The LED was unplugged from the brain and the control switch was shorted. I fixed both before trying another fused. This fuse has held up for the last hour of failed attemps to program. I have the lock/arm, unlock/disarm, and trunk pop working. I have tried to program the tach and remote start countless times, but cant get it to start from the remote. Thanks for the help so far guys. Any more suggestions would be great!
Posted By: rudydapimp
Date Posted: September 28, 2006 at 4:59 PM
HHGregg does still sell and install and service Alarms, RS, and all audio. I work at one, and that's what I do all day.,
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