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860LCD w/ GMDL-BP

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=82938
Printed Date: July 22, 2025 at 4:49 AM


Topic: 860LCD w/ GMDL-BP

Posted By: kristie_jeff
Subject: 860LCD w/ GMDL-BP
Date Posted: September 15, 2006 at 10:59 PM

Hello all,

I will be installing an Autopage 860LCD into a 2005 Bonneville Se, using the GMDL-BP from bypasskit.com. I have a few questions.

1.
   a. On the bypass unit, the pink wire for domelight   input, does that connect to the wire on the car's dome light, or to the white wire coming from the alarm for dome light supervision?

   b. I have the orange wire on the bypass module connected to the grey trunk release output from the alarm, is that correct?

2. On the alarm wiring harnesses:
   a. The pink wire for 2-step door unlock (20-pin connector (H10). I would like to keep this feature if possible, but not sure if I need to use this or the bypass will take care of it. If I need it, which wire do I hit? I would assume the unlock wire on the bypass module

3. Since I am using the bypass, do I need to worry with the RED / white turn indicator wire (H2 connector, the one that decides the polarity of the parking light output)?

And I will assume again, but since I am using the bypass, I guess I don't need to connect the white parking light output (H2)to anything, right?

Thank you very much for any help you can provide.

Jeff



Replies:

Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 16, 2006 at 1:02 AM
I'm thoroughly familiar with the GM-DLBP, but I've never installed an Autopage. That being said....

1A. You don't have to do either. Contrary to what the instructions say, it is NOT NECESSARY to connect the pink wire to anything at all.

The pink/white wire will automatically put out a ground when any of the four doors are opened.....it catches this from the databus in the car.

Simply connect the pink/white, to the door-trigger input to the alarm.

Also, the GM-DLBP automatically turns on the dome light when you unlock the car.........you won't need to connect the dome-supervision wire from the Autopage to anything, either.

1B. I'm not familiar with the Autopage's wiring colors.

What you want is to have the alarm's trunk release output connected to the orange on the GM-DLBP........when this wire receives a ground, the trunk opens.

If you want the alarm to sound off when someone breaks into the trunk, you'll have to connect the Autopage's trunk trigger input (or it might be called trunk pinswitch input), directly to the trunk pinswitch wire in the car. Nothing to do with the GM-DLBP at all.

2. When the GM-DLBP receives one pulse on its unlock wire, it unlocks the driver's door..... if it receives a second pulse, it'll unlock all of the other doors.

From your Autopage, connect BOTH the first-unlock AND second-unlock outputs to the GM-DLBP's blue unlock input.

3. The bypass module might flash the parking lights automatically during lock and unlock.........but it definitely won't activate the parking lights during remote start, or flash them on and off when the Autopage alarm is violated.

Follow the Autopage's instructions to set up the Autopage's parking light wire for a negative output........and connect to the BROWN / white, negative-trigger parking-light wire at the Bonneville's headlight switch.

A FEW OTHER TIPS:

--Below the steering column, there are two rectangular plugs.

Look in one of the plugs for a white wire......with a light blue wire on one side of it, and a dark blue wire on the other side.

That white wire is tach.....not 100% guaranteed to work, but it's worth it to make a temporary connection and try it out.....far easier and more reliable than going under the hood.





Posted By: kristie_jeff
Date Posted: September 16, 2006 at 7:00 AM
Chris, you are AWESOME! Thank you very much for the great info. Since you seem to be familiar with my car, how the HELL do I get to the ignition harness. My fat hands don't fit back there very well. I tried to remove the ignition, but it doesn't seem to want to come out. I remember seeing on here that you can grap a thick constant power from the driver's kick panel, but is there anywhere else I can get to the ignition/accessory wires?

Anyway, you are great and thank you very much for clearing up my questions. I took the car apart last night and identified most of my wires and where I am putting everything, now it's time to do the deed. Later

Jeff




Posted By: kristie_jeff
Date Posted: September 16, 2006 at 2:51 PM
Well, thanks to the great folks here, and all of the post/replys that I have read over the past month, I have the 860 in and semi-working.

Now for the questions. I'm pretty sure the bypass module is working and programed correctly. I programmed it to platform 2.

I am having an issue with the remote start. The RS unit will not start the car. I have tried it in tach sense mode and in voltage sense mode. I did the tach learn while in that mode and it worked. In either mode, I can start the car with the key, press the button for the RS function, then remove the key and the car continues to run until the button is pressed or a safety shuts it off.

On my ignition wires. I could only find 1 that shows 12v+ during on and start, the second only shows 12v while in run, then cuts out in start position. Could that be the problem? If so, does anyone know where another iginition wire is on this car. I have tested all of the wires coming from the key cylinder and there is only 1 that shows 12v during start.

Thanks for any help you can provide,
Jeff




Posted By: kristie_jeff
Date Posted: September 16, 2006 at 4:21 PM
I'm sorry for posting again, but I don't have the ability of editing.

I have tried getting a tach from a different source, and after relearning the tach, still the RS will not start the car. It cranks, I have adjusted the crank time to 2 seconds to make sure it's not cutting off too early.

Another peculiar thing I noticed that may be relevant or not: The door icon keeps flashing on the remote. I though it was just caused by the dome lights since I was starting and turning off, arming and disarming.

While taking a break to read the manual again, I had the system armed, there were no icons flashing, and after about 30-45 seconds, the siren chriped 3 times and the door icon stared flashing. The dome lights were off. Is there something wrong with my bypass module?

Thanks again,
Jeff




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 16, 2006 at 8:36 PM
Hmm.

Any white wires in that ignition hrness?

I've only done one or two Bonnevilles.....lots and lots of LeSabres, DeVilles, etcetera......same platform, but different locations for the ignition switch.

They don't bother to tell you this in the wiring diagram, but the white second-ignition wire comes on VERY early in the key-turn cycle.......that is....

When you're testing that white wire, the very instant you bump the key forward from the "Off" position, it starts showing power.........all the way through "Acc," "Run," and "Start."

It's possible that during testing, you are not moving the key far back enough all the way to "off", and you're thinking that the white wire is a constant.....it's not.

--------------

About the door trigger, well, it depends on how you've wired stuff up.

What wires are connected from the GM-DLBP......and what are they connected to?

And when you mention the wires from the Autopage, please mention the name of the wire as well as the color......because some of us (inclduing me) haven't installed Autopage before, so we're not familiar with their wire colors.




Posted By: kristie_jeff
Date Posted: September 16, 2006 at 9:20 PM
Hey Chris, sorry about the autopage color thing.

I reset the gm-dlbp and then set the platform and relarned the car again. Now the doors seem to be working normally, that is, before the alarm wouldn't passive arm, but now when I close the last door, it starts blinking, and when any of the doors are opened, it triggers.

I wasn't as lucky with the RS however. Here is how I have the wires currently. This way it will crank but not start:

Starter wire---pale yellow----purple start from alarm

Ignition wire---pink---pink ignition 2 from alarm

Ignition wire---orange---yellow ignition 1 from alarm

accessory wire---white---brown acc from alarm


Now, as I type that and look back at my alarm/car wiring charts, I think I may have switched the accessory and ignition (the car ones). Should I have the hit the white car wire with ignition and the orange with accessory?

That will be the first thing I check tomorrow. Geesh, remember the days when all you had to do was cut the starter wire and put your kill relay and rs between the key and starter. Ahhh, those were the days. This is my first RS on a car with the Vats/passkey stuff.

Thanks again for your help,
Jeff




Posted By: kristie_jeff
Date Posted: September 16, 2006 at 9:39 PM
Well I'll be a Son of a B**ch. So I'm sitting here thinking about the wire colors. So after a couple of bottles of liquid curage, I couldn't stand it anymore and went out to check the wires. I switchec what I had as accessory and one of the ignition wires. BAM!!! The Fu**er started right up.

I hate making stupid noob mistakes like that, I really hate admitting that I made it on an world famous forum for millions to see. Oh well, maybe someone can learn from this.

Moral of the story, check your doodie. If it doesn't work the first time, check it 10 more times. Then have a few beers, then go do it the right way. LOL

Chris, Love ya man!

Jeff





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