2003 honda accord, aps-997
Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=83218
Printed Date: May 16, 2024 at 10:58 PM
Topic: 2003 honda accord, aps-997
Posted By: honorabledog
Subject: 2003 honda accord, aps-997
Date Posted: September 22, 2006 at 11:43 AM
Hello everyone, A couple of months ago I installed an aps-997 into a 03 honda accord. I got alot of advice here on the install. Everything worked perfect for the past 2 months and all of a sudden 3 days ago the headlights stopped working. Customer called me, I checked the alarm and it's still working flawless, checked all fuses and the switch and it all checked out. The symptoms are hazards work, the parking lights turn on when the ignition is on and they stay on, no turn signals, and no headlights at all. I reccomended he take it to Honda and they said that the fuse box was blown and he ordered a new one. I told him I did not feel it was the fuse box..everything else works perfect. He asked me to swap it out for him cause honda wanted $500 to do it. I did it for him and I planned to give him the labor free if it fixed the problem but it did nothing to change the situation. Does anyone here have any reccomendations? If it's something I did when I installed the alarm then why has there been no other problems?
Replies:
Posted By: thepencil
Date Posted: September 22, 2006 at 11:52 AM
Have you got a second oppinion by a different dealer? You may want to verify that they say the same thing. Sometime you may even need a third if $$$$ is the issue. If I remember no headlight connection require on an alarm install on this particular vehicle. ------------- Be careful whose advice you buy, but be patient with those who supply it. 
Posted By: KarTuneMan
Date Posted: September 22, 2006 at 12:31 PM
They said "the fuse box was blown" Don't that sound like a line of crap to you? seems to me, if the fuse box "blew" you might have a bit of a fire. Have you been to the under hood fuse box as well? Larger fuses are located there.
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Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: September 22, 2006 at 12:49 PM
Yea' I thought it was bs thats why I offered to do it for free if the fuse box was the problem. No there is a headlight wire for the alarm but its an option and the cust diddn't care if I diddn't use it so i diddn't. I have checked the fuses under the hood. Every thing seems fine. I'm going to pull the new fuse box back out so he can return it. thanks guys for replying. Any more ideas? I honestly feel since nothing else has been done to the car it must have been something I did.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: September 23, 2006 at 5:09 AM
I was driving home to night when I remembered that the aps has a program feature for activating the lights during arming and when r/s. Could my customer somehow screwed the programming up cause this?
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 23, 2006 at 12:50 PM
The "fuse box" is in reality the driver's-side MICU (Multiplex Integrated Control Unit)........ it's basicaly the body-control module, and fusebox, built as one.
Sounds like the dealer misdiagnosed the problem, which isn't a surprise....hopefully they don't give him a hard time about returning the part.
Before assuming that, though, call the dealer and find out of the new MICU would have to be programmed to the car before it would work....it is possible.
It's entirely possible to damage the MICU, even without making smoke or fire......if you get the wrong parking light wire, it'll get damaged.
Do the parking lights turn on and off correctly with the alarm and remote start? As in, they flash on and off when arming and disarming....... and stay on steady when remote started?
What did you use for parking lights?
If you haven't connected the WHITE/ blue headlight output to anything, it wouldn't matter what you or the customer did with the programming.
Also, have you tried disconnecting the battery for a few minutes? Never hurts to try.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: September 24, 2006 at 7:11 AM
Thanks Chris, If the car is behaving exactly the same with both fuse boxes do you still think it may need to be programmed? I wouldn't know how to do that. Yes every alarm and remote start function associated with the parking lights work. They come on when arm/disarm and then when r/s. I put the WHITE/ red from alarm to the RED / black that is the harness that goes to the rear of the vehicle for the lights. Only RED / black there. Then I put the white from alarm to the RED / black at the swich at the column. I have disconnected the neg to work on the car but not the positive side. I'll try this while I'm swapping the old fuse box back in.
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 24, 2006 at 8:47 AM
Hey man no problem.
I have no idea if the replacement fusebox would have to be programmed..... it was just a thought. It does communicate, through databus signal, with other modules in the car, such as the two front doors for example.....so it wouldn't be a surprise if it was the type of thing that needed programming.
I will try to ask some friends at the Honda dealer I go to, tomorrow.
Yeah, you picked a perfect spot for the parking lights.....in the thick bundle running to the back....like you said, it's the only RED / black in that location, so it's hard to make a mistake. (I get the brake and trunk-release there, as well.)
The reason I asked about that is because, at the top of the fusebox, there are two plugs.......with three RED / black wires, and one BLACK/ red as well.
One of the RED / black wires is parking lights......another is ignition.....and another carries some kind of signal related to the computer. (I don't know what it is.)
What I do know, is that if you accidentally connect to the RED / black computer wire up there, the fuse box will stop working, and need to be replaced.
Also, you said you connected the other Audiovox parking light wire to the BLACK/ red at the steering column? That's an accessory wire.......I don't see how it could break anything, but it wouldn't be right.
The other Audiovox parking light wire should be connected to constant power, and preferably through a fuse for safety.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: September 24, 2006 at 10:45 AM
I will re- wire the white wire to a constant source then, the one I tapped into was the headlight wire from switch that is supposed to have power at all times. Could I have zapped a plug or etc.? The things I tried in the last hour were: 1Disconnected the power for 20 minutes while I swapped the fuse box again. no-effect 2.Removed all power to alarm and remote start, still no effect 3. Reconnected the alarm prk lights in reverse, no effect 4. Disconnected th light switch at column with no effect, the prk lights still stay on??? I'm running out of ideas.. You mentioned you got your brakes at the same spot as the prk light harness, I got mine directly at the brake pedal switch, do you think that could be an issue? Thanks again, Mike
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: September 24, 2006 at 6:26 PM
New developments are when I put a jumper wire from the parklight wire to ground the parklights still stay on constantly but the turnsignals and the headlights now work. Could I have lost my ground to the park lights somehow which makes them stay on and prevent the headlights and turn signals from working? It's been a long day and it looks to be a long night.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: September 25, 2006 at 12:26 PM
Well guys i know for sure the problem is in the wiring from the fuse box to the switch, but i'm still looking. The light control switch has to run through the wiper switch before making it's way down the harness to the fusebox and it's here I can't locate the exact issue. And for the love of god i can't locate the relays for the lights. They are not in the cabin fuse box or in the underhood box that i can see. I hear them clicking as they should when I jump ground the prk lights somewhere near the outside box . The haynes manual shows the diagram but other thatn that it's useless. I'm tempted to let him take the care back to Honda but they refuse to work on the car untill I remove the alarm. Which the customer states that if I do remove the alarm for honda then he wants me to put it back in after honda works on it, I simply don't have that kind of time right now. I have 13 sportbikes in the shop right now and thats where I make my real money. AAAARRGG
Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: September 25, 2006 at 2:37 PM
honorabledog wrote:
I will re- wire the white wire to a constant source then, the one I tapped into was the headlight wire from switch that is supposed to have power at all times. Could I have zapped a plug or etc.?
The things I tried in the last hour were:
1Disconnected the power for 20 minutes while I swapped the fuse box again. no-effect
2.Removed all power to alarm and remote start, still no effect
3. Reconnected the alarm prk lights in reverse, no effect
4. Disconnected th light switch at column with no effect, the prk lights still stay on???
I'm running out of ideas.. You mentioned you got your brakes at the same spot as the prk light harness, I got mine directly at the brake pedal switch, do you think that could be an issue?
Thanks again, Mike
--What do you mean by "the headlight wire from the switch that is supposed to have power at all times?" 1, what wire is it...... and 2, did you first test it to see that it really did have power all the time?
--The ONLY thing the Audiovox unit does is, when it "wants" the parking lights to be on, it simply jumps the white, and the WHITE/ red, together.
--Therefore, if you connected the white wire to one place in the Honda, and the WHITE/ red to another.........what is effectively happening is that every time the alarm is used, those two Honda wires are jumped together.
--The RED / black parking light wire in the kick panel rests as a ground, and then become positive when the lights are on......probably you know that.
--If the alarm was operated with the Honda's parking lights OFF, you have effectively applied a ground to that other wire in the steering column.....whatever it was.
--If the alarm was operated while the Honda's parking lights were ON, you have effectively applied positive power to the wire in the steering column.
--In either case, if you don't really know what the wire in the column really was, it will probably be bad to be putting power or ground to it.
--It sounds like we might be getting closer to figuring out what happened.......explain the wire you used in the steering column, and maybe that will help explain it.
--I think you're right about the negative-trigger, parking light wire from the switch, first going through the wiper switch...........from there, it communicates with the rest of the car through data signal. It is possible that the MICU (fuse box) is okay, but the headlight switch or wiper switch are bad.
Take the column cover apart, and test the RED / black wire at the headlight switch....... it should be making a ground whenever you move the switch to the on position........ is it? Post back with results.
--Nothing wrong with getting brake at the brake pedal switch; you should be fine there. I just get it in the kick panel because A, I don't have to bend into an awkard position to hook it up, and B, the job comes out neater if you get as many wires in one spot as possible.
Posted By: honorabledog
Date Posted: September 25, 2006 at 3:43 PM
Hey Chris, I goofed bad. I had hooked the white to the headlight wire at the switch. I must have checked while the power was on or something else stupid. I re wired the white to the battery/fused of course. So it's pretty clear I burnt a switch. I checked my DMM to a known voltage and it's broken so now i have a new DMM. I tested the swich again like you suggested and this is what I found. With no power to the ignition: DMM set to 20v dc switch off 4.45v and when on 4.50 v (headlight wire) With key turned to on: DMM set to 20v dc switch off 10.73 v and when on 10.72
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