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Viper 160XV in 2005 Camry, Having Trouble

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=83593
Printed Date: July 09, 2025 at 7:37 PM


Topic: Viper 160XV in 2005 Camry, Having Trouble

Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Subject: Viper 160XV in 2005 Camry, Having Trouble
Date Posted: October 01, 2006 at 9:19 PM

the problems are as follows:

1.  Status LED does not light up

2.  Upon activation of remote start (RS), RS attempts to start 3 times: parking light flash, acessory on, ignition on, no crank.

3.  Purple and Green wires have constant 12V, is this normal?

4.  Does the WHITE/ Blue (activation input) need to be connected anywhere?

thanks in advance!




Replies:

Posted By: cntrylvr79
Date Posted: October 01, 2006 at 9:27 PM

1. Does it light after you lock the doors?  Is it plugged into the white port on the brain?  Could just be a bad led.

2.  Is tach hooked up and learned?  did you use a bypass module?  Did you power the second starter wire?

3.  No.  The orange wire in the 12 pin main harness is that hooked up to anything?  If it is disconnect it.  A lot of people make the mistake of grounding that wire.

4.  Nope.

Would help if you list what wires of the r/s you hooked up to what wires in the car.



-------------
Cause I'm So white and nerdy...
First Class Certi-fried installer




Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Date Posted: October 01, 2006 at 10:19 PM

1.  i am using the existing keyless entry, and only using the remote start feature of the 160XV.  Yes, the LED is plugged into the white port of the brain... and i tried both that came with the kit.

2.  I believe the tach is hooked up to the right wire, but since the status LED does not light up, I cannot tell if its learned.  I do not think my car has an immobilizer:  valet key is bare metal and is able to start the car.  I used the purple 200 mA starter output from the relay satellite to a second relay to power the second starter wire (EDIT:  i just realized that this output is negatively switched, that may be why the car is not starting.  i'll have to switch that around later on). 

3.  Orange wire is not connected to anything... i have removed it entirely from the 12 pin harness.

Relay Satellite Wires:

Purple -> BLACK/ White, Starter Side

Green -> BLACK/ White, Key Side

Red -> 12V directly from battery (fused)

Orange -> Blue/Red, Accessory

Pink/White -> BLACK / YELLOW, 2nd Ignition

Pink -> BLACK/ Red, Ignition

RED / White -> Connected to Red and Pink/White on the kit harness the way it came ... (potential problem?)

Purple (Aux Harness) -> Relay -> 2nd Starter

Brain Wires:

RS Harness:

BLACK/ White -> Chassis Ground

Violet/White -> BLACK/ Orange (from ECM behind glovebox)

Brown -> GREEN / WHITE at switch

Grey -> Hoodpin

12 Pin Harness:

White -> GREEN/ Silver Dots, Parking Lights +

Black -> Chassis Ground

Red -> 12V direct from battery (fused)

*All others from 12 Pin Harness Removed

Thanks for the help and quick response!





Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Date Posted: October 01, 2006 at 10:22 PM

Also for Brain Wires:

White 2 Pin Port -> Status LED

Blue 2 Pin Port -> Valet/Program Switch





Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 02, 2006 at 7:52 AM
Sounds like you have everything hooked up right, but how about that second-starter relay? Tell us how you wired it up, and we can make sure you got it right.

There was no need to run constant power all the way from the battery, but that won't hurt anything either.

You should hook up the locks and trunk from the Viper.....the Toyota remote doesn't work when the remote start is running.

The blue/white doesn't need to be connected to anything.

TROUBLESHOOTING TIPS:

1. Start car with key. Activate remote start, which should put it into "pit-stop" mode...... wait a couple of seconds, remove key.

Engine should stay running. If you stomp on the gas and race the engine, the remote starter should shut down (over-rev protection).

If pit-stop and over-rev work correctly, you've got the right tach wire, and the ignition wires are hooked up right.

If it doesn't work, tach isn't programmed right, or you have the wrong tach wire.

2. Temporarily re-program for voltage sense, and try the remote starter.......this will quickly tell you if tach is your problem, or not.

3. Activate the remote starter. At the very moment it's supposed to crank the starter, quickly insert the key, turn it to Start, and "help" the remote starter..........once the engine fires up, turn the key back all the way to off......... if it sucessfully starts and stays running, you've got an error with your starter wire(s).




Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Date Posted: October 02, 2006 at 4:47 PM

Relay wiring:

5 pin bosch relay:

Pin 30 -> 12V direct from battery

Pin 87-> BLACK / YELLOW, 2nd ignition

Pin 86 -> Purple from Aux Harness

Pin 85 -> Chassis Gournd (this should be 12V because the purple wire is negatively switched?)





Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Date Posted: October 02, 2006 at 4:49 PM
any suggestions on the status LED problem?




Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Date Posted: October 02, 2006 at 5:10 PM

I have rewired the relay as follows:

Pin 30 -> 12V

Pin 87 -> BLACK / YELLOW, 2nd Starter

Pin 86 -> Purple from Aux Harness (Starter Relay Trigger)

Pin 86 -> 12V

Activating remote start now starts the car, but it dies immediatley.  I also tried the pit-stop test, but it just grinds the starter...





Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Date Posted: October 02, 2006 at 5:35 PM

another thing i have tried, at least in terms of the status LED: 

1.  switching the leads around, nothing.

2.  plugging into valet switch port, constant on.

both leds with the kit are confirmed to work (tested with a battery)... why doesn't it work in its designated port, but somewhat works in the valet switch port?  could the brain be defective?





Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: October 02, 2006 at 9:48 PM
You now have th relay wired right, What about the transponder key, does it have one? If there is a factory security light on the dash next to the radio it does and will cause it to start then stop.

-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Date Posted: October 03, 2006 at 6:09 AM
no transponder key as mentioned above... since the status LED or even possibly the Valet/Program button is not working, I have decided to buy a BitWriter to program the system.  Hopefully once I am able to actually program the system it should start working!




Posted By: blu3pho3nix
Date Posted: October 12, 2006 at 5:36 PM

just an update, remote start now works.  i recieved my bitwriter and was able to program it for voltage sense... since tachometer was not working.

i have a few questions regarding the door locks and trunk release now, however:

viper 160XV has two wires, green and blue (-)lock (+)unlock and (+) lock(-)unlock respectively.  do i just connect green to blue / YELLOW (power lock) and blue to blue (power unlock)?  do i have to connect anything to the lock motors?

as for the trunk release, which wire do i connect to?  green (trunk/hatch pin) or WHITE/ blue (trunk/hatch release)?  seems like an obvious question, but according to the wiring information the green has negative polarity and the WHITE/ blue has "5wi".

and finally, the camry "chirps" when locking or unlocking with the factory remote.  i want to retain this feature with the viper keyless entry... but i don't which wire to connect/tap into.  i don't believe it is the horn... since the horn is much louder... and i know where that wire is.

thanks for all the help!





Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: October 12, 2006 at 8:49 PM

For locks it's a simple negative pulse but you can easily retain the two stage unlock like your factory remote has. For lock, connect green to blue / YELLOW like you state. For unlock, connect blue to blue, but also connect it to blue on plug H1 on the Viper. This will unlock drivers door first and other doors on second press.

For trunk release, you need a relay. The WHITE/ blue is located in a blue plug in the center of the driver kickpanel, but it rests at ground. You'll need to cut htis wire and run it 5 wire thru that relay to work.

As for the factory chirp, look for a small piezo under the hood. It should unplug and you could connect it thru a relay to chirp when armed...



-------------
Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services





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