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Passlock 2

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=83974
Printed Date: July 07, 2025 at 10:39 PM


Topic: Passlock 2

Posted By: dieseldoc
Subject: Passlock 2
Date Posted: October 10, 2006 at 9:29 PM

I am putting in a prostart remote start system. I read through some of the other forums looking for my answer. My question is this: I wired the passlock interface in the way they showed how and I tried to start my truck but it would only run for a sec and then die, do I need to wait the 10 min and continue with the installation or do i have something wired in wrong. Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!

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Thank You!



Replies:

Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 10, 2006 at 9:42 PM
For some Passlock II systems you have to wait the 10 minutes ONLY if the THEFT light is flashing when you have the key in the ON position. Normally you have 2 or 3 attempts before the long tamper mode is engaged. Let us know what brand bypass module you have and also what make, model and car you have so we can help you more.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: dieseldoc
Date Posted: October 11, 2006 at 7:01 PM
Sorry I was jumping the gun there. My truck is a 2002 Chevy Silverado, with the 5.3L V8. The passlock type is a BYP-PLJX sold through Grandwest. I am pretty sure I have all the other wires connected correctly but without any pictures and an actual GM schematic. I am a journeyman Heavy truck mechanic so this securtiy system deal is a little new to me. I bought the Prostart through Canadian Tire. I would like to find a solution so your help is needed. Thanks for the reply I hope i gave you the info you required.  

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Thank You!




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 11, 2006 at 8:22 PM

I've never had any luck with those PLJX modules. I would install them and it would program properly and within a month the customer tells me that they can't start the vehicle with their RS but it's OK with the key. I sent them all back and got PLXR modules instead and they're much more reliable.

As far as the PLJX is concerned, make sure the programming jumper is in the correct position & that you have successfully programmed the resistor code from the vehicle to the module. During programming you can not have the ground when running wire attached to the unit so make sure that you do not have it hooked up during programming steps.



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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: dieseldoc
Date Posted: October 11, 2006 at 10:05 PM
Hi Jeff....My name is Jon. Thank you so much for your help. I wired that one i had in and now i have a potentially bigger problem. The Passlock seems to work fine and the truck runs and drives well. I can't however start the truck using the remote. It gives me 5 flashes and thats it. According to the book that 5 flashes means that there is no tach signal. I can't seem to get the Prostart to get and program a tach signal. I have hooked the tach signal wire to the correct wire(tested it using the DVOM on ACV) . I'm lost as to what it might be. Can you help me on this issue? If not no worries.  Thanks a bunch .......sincerely  Jon

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Thank You!




Posted By: sparkie
Date Posted: October 12, 2006 at 7:43 PM
Use the white wire in the instrument cluster plug for tach. Make sure that you ground the remote starter to the vehicle chassis and not the dash. Check this is done and then reprogram the tach.

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sparky




Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: October 12, 2006 at 8:33 PM
I agree, white on the cluster is a very reliable source....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: Velocity Motors
Date Posted: October 12, 2006 at 8:55 PM
The Pro Starts have always (IMO ) had problems programming te remote or the tach signal. Having to go through that stupid sequence to have the tach signal program is such a chore. Enough of my ranting, now I would make sure that your getting the proper tach signal ( tell us where you attached your tach at ). I normally go to the injector, any wire that is not PINK on top of the engine.

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Jeff
Velocity Custom Home Theater
Mobile Audio/Video Specialist
Morden, Manitoba CANADA




Posted By: dieseldoc
Date Posted: October 12, 2006 at 10:59 PM
The system seems to be grounded properly. I checked for a white wire coming from the engine ECM under the hood and found 2 white wires....I checked for AC voltage on both and found it on only the one. This is the wire I chose to hook my tach signal up to. A guy a work said that i may need to remove the power to the system and try it again. I will try that next because I know i hooked the tach wire after the fact so i'm hoping thats the problem. I hope i'm on the right track. Let me know if you guys think of something. Thanks 

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Thank You!




Posted By: Chris Luongo
Date Posted: October 14, 2006 at 9:10 AM
If you get it at the instrument cluster, it's easy, and it's the only white wire there, so it's difficult to get it wrong.

1. Parking brake on, ignition on, tilt wheel down, transmission in low gear.

2. Pull on dashboard around both of the driver's AC vents; it just pops out. The dash panel will lay perfectly, upside-down on top of the dash, with no chance of you tripping over it or breaking it.

3. Four 7mm screws around the instrument cluster.

4. Pull on cluster and it'll come out a little bit. But there's plenty of slack on the wire harness; it just gets caught up on something back there..... reach behind, free it up, and it'll pull out with plenty of room.

5. Hold the cluster face-up, give it a quarter-turn counterclockwise, and it'll sit nice, with one end restong atop the dash, the other end resting atop the steering wheel....... now you'll have a very easy time, with plenty of room, to open up the harness tape and connect your tach.





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