Best Passlock II bypass 99 Silverado

you have to use a module that cuts the yellow wire to bypass the PSII during remote start. It is not hard to do and the wires will be along with the ignition harness anyway where you need to be for other connections. The manual that comes with the 555 will tell you the colors to look for in your particular year vehicle and the 2 you need (one gets cut, another gets tapped into) will be next to each other. The 457 connects to the obd2 connector for the doorlocks and other wires are for door triggers and makes installation alot easier then using all kinds of relays, resistors and diodes. Basically you will need both modules unless someone sells one that does everything in one. There may be something like that around but I only deal with DEI and for now you need both, one to bypass the passlock, one to operate doorlocks. Hope I helped

Interesting modules. seems these do more functions then the dei modules and perhaps will cut down on install time and cutting of some wires. since I only deal with DEI products i can not verify with any accuracy the quality of those modules or the reputation of the manufacturers.

But regardless you will still need to tap into many wires to do a remote start in your truck with all the features you want and assure at least the starter wire will need to be cut if you wish to utilize the kill. Of course the company that makes those modules might understate what needs to be done but once again I am not sure, I am only familier with DEI and have no problems with it.

I admire that you wish to attempt this yourself as most people would be afraid. I have done installs on semis and boats where all the wires were unmarked and the same colors. However since I am an experience installer I can do almost anything without a diagram. But I always try to get one to cut down on install time and learn any "tricks" that may apply to a certain vehicle. I suggest you ask someone to post the wiring diagram for a remote start install for your vehicle here, it will make things go alot quicker and possibly prevent you form seriously damaging any electronic components or systems.

The main thing is to only use a digital multimeter when probing wires and do not connect to anything until you verify and are 100% positive what it is for. Even with a diagram there is still chance for error. But as I said before your truck is not too difficult, at least for someone with experience and the modules really are a time saver.

Nah, I think you are overANALizing a bit. First off the reason you can't do all those options through the obd2 in your truck is only becasue of its year. If you had a newer GM truck then you could use the 457 or something else and do it with less wiring "invasivly" into the vehicle.

If you feel up to the challenge you should do all the features you wish yourself, even though to your misfortune no obd2 integration is used in your truck. If you are confident that you can make safe connections, and know how to use a DMM, it is really not that hard. Time consuming yes, but not hard.

Now since you already have a 555 on its way to you I feel you should just use it. I promise you it is not difficult and at least in my experience have not had any issues whatsoever.

You do not need in any way to be so concerned how the PKII works. All you need to know is that you will cut one thin yellow wire at the ignition harness. There is a thin yellow wire on the module. You connect that to the key side. Then take the thin yellow/black wire from the module and connect it to the vehicle side of the cut yellow. There is a thin black wire on the module, the taps into the only other PKII wire you need to access, I believe on your truck it is also black but the directions with the 555 will tell you exactly.

There is a thin blue wire on the 555 that you will need to connect to the RS. DEI gives you 3 possible optional wires where you can connect that to but its function is to activate the module to send the code during remote start. (also a blue wire that sends - during remote start)

Now you just hook up your ground, then power. Start the vehicle with the key and in a few seconds the code is learned. Turn the key off and try it with the remote start. If everything else is correct and your tach is programmed or voltage threshold if you so choose, you are done with the PKII part.

The code needs to be sent every time the vehicle is started so I don't think what you were trying to explain will work, if I understood correctly.

It really is simple and does everything for you, all you need to do is wire it in properly and make soild reliable connections for troublefree performance.

Hope I am still being of help.

ok the 791 should come with everything you need to do doorlocks, remote start and full security. If you wish to add window control then that should be the only other module you need besides the 555 for PKII. Now you don't have to use DEI window modules but I prefer them personally, especially when already using a DEI RS.

there should be a direction manual with the RS unit in the box, If you lost it or don't have it for whatever reason you need to go to an authorized DEI dealer and ask if they will get you a printout for directechs. click on resourcses and select the model and print any manual you need. I don't know if all shops will do this for you or if they might want to charge a small fee but it's worth a shot. Perhaps someone else here will post it for you or email it if so inclined.

As far as finding out about all the modules you can try directed.com but usually I have no luck finding anything useful there. You might once again need to find a dealer and look at thier catalog but I don't think you should need any more then the 555 and a window mod.

One more thing. About having all those modules and where to put them. The PKII module is small, you can zip tie that up and away behind stuff under the dash, just keep away from moving parts.

window mods I put in the door between the watershield and panel, if no room I will try the kick or as a last resort somewhere under the dash, there is room in your truck for stuff.

The DEI RS as 3 main components. The "brain, the relay module (small) and the relay "cluster".

The brain is fairly small and the relay will locate not too far from the ignition harness since thats where all your high current connections are made.

the last thing to mount under the dash is the shock sensor, the 791 uses an external one and it is tiny, zip tie it to a large wire harness will usually give decent performance. On some trucks if the customer is ultra picky about even sensitivity around the whole vehicle I add an additional one to the rear of the truck.

wow thats alot of info but seems you are close.

The reason they emphasize about that 3rd ignition (white) will not have an effect on how the remote system starts the car per say. (on some other GM trucks the white or pink white is 2nd ignition, no 3rd is needed).

It is more about the engineering of the vehicle. If all the igntion wires on many GM trucks do not recieve power at the same moment in time it will cause the transmission have problems with shifting (strange..but true..been there)

But it shifts fine when started with the key. I have not seen this cause any damage (but you never know) Simply hooking up the white ignition wire cures the issue.

And yes..if you mess with the passlock system (or older VATS) as well, it will lock out start for a while. Thats what you did when you cut the yellow passlock wire and attempted to start, no biggie.

Before we go any further please make sure everything you connected to was safely and accuratly verified with a DMM.

A quick test for the 555.

Unplug the 555 and jump the thin yellow wire. Put the key in and attempt to remote start. If it does the issue is the install of the 555 or a possible defective unit but thats doubtful, I have good luck with those. follow the directions to "learn" it after you verify all of the connections.

Next you stated you connected the pink wire of the 555 to a "thin yellow" at the ignition harness. Verify that thin yellow is true ignition. If not the unit won't work. Connect it to one of the main ignition wires that you used for the RS. It is simply an ignition check for the 555 to turn it on..the neg during RS wire you connected at the bulldog brain will send the "r" code and allow starting. You might want to check that connection as well. It should put out (-) during cranking of the RS unit.

The other possibility is that you are using the unit tachless, which can give the same symptons you have. On the DEI you must look in the manual at the programming guide. Its a bit confusing without the bitwriter but I do it all the time. Make sure the "check engine" feature is enabled if using it tachless. If stilll shuts down go to the next feature "check engine tach" I think but it's the very next option, I do not have a manual handy right now. Regardless, the bulldog may have something like that to set the voltage threshold, it may not start the vehicle properly if not programmed.

I would reccomend doing it with the tach if the wire is easy to access, I believe it is on those trucks..something like a white wire in a plug marked WHITE on the ECM under the hood, can't miss it. Then you must most likely program the unit for "tach learn" See directions of your system for procedure.

Ok I did my best with what you gave me. Let me know what the dealio is after you check everything I left so far.

Good luck..any other problems be just as specific, that helps alot. Thanks.

No probelm, you are quite welcome. I live for this stuff...OMG!!!, I really DO need to get a life.!!..lol

Anyhow, that is correct. You actually have to connect everything where it belongs, but as well...to verify every wire before connecting. I know the led test thingy they gave could be a help but ANY professional installer knows the only safe way to test circuits, ESPECIALLY in todays vehicles, is with a digital multimeter.

The internal resistance of a mulitmeter is millions of ohms so in effect the circuit or wire you are testing hardly knows you are being "invasive" to it. A simple led, even if it has additional resistors is a crap shoot. I have been installing forever so I feel safe using a computer safe test light...but...only on wires I know can handle the addition draw. I would never consider any kind of tester other then a DMM on any unknown wire. Glad you stated that you used a DMM.  A gold star for you.

Properly soldering your connections is also extra credit. Double good for you.

Now for the 3rd ignition. A couple of ways to go depending. What I do not reccomend is to just "twist" it together with the other ignition wire(s). The factory seperated them for a reason and although this will work, and "probably" never cause an issue, it is not the right way to go..it is a "rigging".

IF your RS unit has an extra (- )RS output..... wire a 12v spdt relay as such.

85....neg. output from brain

86 and 30...Main 12v+ with a fuse close to power source of course. (86 could go to ign as well..your choice) But 30 must be to main constant or you defeat the purpose of the relay. (isolation)

87...To the 3rd ignition wire      87a is not used..insulate it and mount relay with a screw or zip tie in a safe place away from moisture and moving parts.

If there is no extra (-)RS output on the brain...

85....ground

86...to 2nd ignition wire

30..12v+ main power with fuse

87...same as above.....

If the default setting (tachless) is working fine in all engine temperature conditions it may not pose a problem. Hopefully the unit has an "antigrind" feature. The DEI's do, but if not if can be done with a relay as well.

Take care and I was glad to be of assistance.

Oh... you asked about the PL2 lockout. I am not 100% sure if there are different timout lengths depending on how many tries. I do not have a service manual for that vehicle. But in retrospec, I do not care. As long as I understand the basics of what it does, and how to properly bypass/interface with it, the universe remains intact.

I have a little more experience with the older GM "VATS" , the one with the small resistor in the key shaft. I know on that system one start attempt with the wrong or no resistance value and it's like a 20 minute or longer wait between tries. Kind of a pain for those with older GM cars as they tend to wear out (the keys and/or the ignition cylinder.). and the keys are not cheap to replace either. There is a simple way to bypass the system completly with just one resistor shunting the VAts side. Now the customer can use basic 1 dollar keys and have a "real" security system installed if desired. If they wish to integrate with an RS a simple relay and resistor (one of only 15 possible values measured off the key) does the trick.

Curtis again.

The 555L has been working perfect.
Finally got the Viper 5900 in.
Most of the way done.

Quick question, on the satellite harness the book says to connect 
Purple as starter output and Green as starter input for starter kill
and anti grind. Is this the same wire. I connected it as such and it
will start the vehicle. Am I supposed to cut the starter wire and
put the Green on the key side and the Purple on the starter side.

H1/12 Orange (-) wire is for a starter kill relay as well. I originally
assumed that I would have to put a relay on this wire for for the
starter kill. That was until I wired the satellite...

H1/12 Orange is not used.....

cut the starter wire... green goes to the key side and purple goes to the starter side.....