Printer Friendly Forum Posts - Remote start on a carb

I put one on a few cars. The last one was a 1969 Electra 225 (The Deuce). It works but the thing is it never worked unless we had previously started the car for the day. It ended up getting switch to throttle body because it was one of our show cars

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Southern Stylez
Jacksonville, FL 32218

I did it once using a door lock actuator and some relays to pump the gas twice during start.

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That hilarious!! never never ever ever never thought of that. Would have never i don't think. Wow now I've got to find a place to use that. Whats your first name Qinstaller? so I can give credit if I ever do it

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Southern Stylez
Jacksonville, FL 32218

yes I have.

Use an aftermarket cruise control diaphram to set the choke.

However, if it's a manual transmission all bets are off. i don't want my name or reputation attached to anyone that can have thier vehicle drive through the display window of Macy's simply by accidently leaning on a remote button and forgot to set the parking brake.

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oh and one more thing. Most carb. vehicles will not have a vss wire.

so we wire tied a small piece of metal (conductor) to the drive shaft and set up a coil of wire in a position so that it would pass through it's field creating magnetism, in turn inducing a voltage the would increase with the speed of the drive shaft.

It was "ghetto" 101...but it worked for us.

If Im explained this wrong I am sorry...I am druuk. ops drunk

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Back many years ago before they had EFI, remote starts would come with a plate that mounted on the carb mounting studs and had a solenoid mounted on it that would pump the gas once before starting. It was more like a trunk popper than a door lock type solenoid. This was back in the 80's, man am i old....

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

One thing....OOPSSSSS I was not myself last night (morning) lol'

you do not need a vss on a remote start...DOH!

however I did use this technique when doing aftermarket cruise controls on older vehicles. Had to calibrate the voltage at speed... but it worked.

You only need a tach wire (most older cars especially) although you can try it tachless.

If you can rig a solenoid, or diaphram, actuator etc to set the choke and pump some gas it should work on a carbed vehicle.

The tach wire is simply found on older vehicles by using the negative side of the ignition coil.

Hope I helped.

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You are correct Mike M2. I too did many installs back in the olden days on carb vehicles. Ottomoto, don't use a door lock actuator as they aren't designed for this and don't return to their resting position. Use a power trunk solenoid. They are designed to pull a heavy load and will return to their resting position. You will need to use a pulse before start to activate the solenoid. This will pump the throttle once and set the carb to high idle. You may also want to try and use a free channel from your remote start to also pulse the solenoid. This way you can give the throttle an extra shot if needed or take the carb out of high idle. Make sure that you fuse the lead to the solenoid. Having a high current wire near a fuel source is unsafe if not done correctly.

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sparky

is there a way that you might draw me a diagram of how it should be done i have a viper 550 but i am fixing to get the VIPER 791XV so i would like to set that up to work

It is pretty easy in regards to wiring. The soleniod has either one or two wires. If it has only one, then you must mount it to a piece of metal that is grounded. If it has two wires one is ground and the other requires a fused 12 volt source. I would suggest fusing it at 15 amps. Use a relay to supply the current to the solenoid. Terminal #87 to the solenoid, #30 to a fused (15 amp)source of 12 volts, # 86 to #30, #85 to a negative output from your remote starter that pulses before start. This will cause the solenoid to activate once to pump a shot of gas into the carb. The solenoid I am thinking of comes from Audiovox. I can't remember what the part number is, something like PROTRNK. You will need to mount it close to the carb's throttle. Mount it directly behind in the direction that the throttle cable pulls towards (usually towards the firewall). Securely fasten the solenoid to the motor somehow and then attach the cable from the solenoid to the throttle. You will have to adjust the mounting and cable till you get the correct amount of throttle pull. Be very careful not to allow the solenoid or cable to cause the throttle to bind or stick under normal driving conditions. I hope this helps.

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sparky

My question is, I never did one on a carb before so bear with me, why can't you just let the car crank once and then it should have the gas to start on the second go around. Or is my thinking incorrect.

That will work if the car is warmed up..you turn if off it will remote start again 9 out of 10 times.

The problem occurs when you need it most. Cold mornings. Without the choke set and plenty of fuel in the bowls you get a "lean " condition and it won't start.

Hope that helped you.

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another idea. I have never done this before but it is feasible.

If you have an electric choke already, can buy an electronic choke conversion for you present carb, or replace it with an aftermarket electric choke carb, you may be able to use a timer.

Use a spare channel of the 791 to activate the timer. The timer can use a relay to send current thru the choke coil and heat it, in turn causing it to close.

I still can't guarantee there will be enough fuel in it to start on a very cold morning (I live in SO. Florida so no issue here) but it is another possible option.

If you have to buy a new carburator this may not be the cheapest way out, but perhaps it is a bit safer then rigging a solinoid to the throttle of your car..(I can see the headlines now)...lol

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The solenoid only duplicates what you yourself do out of habit on a cold morning. You mash the gas pedal once before trying to start the car. As mentioned, it sets the carb into a high idle position and gives one good shot of gas into the engine.

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sparky

to me the solenoid is the only way that it would work efficiently and i was looking at mine and i had a cruise control hooked up but it doesnt work so there is already a place to hook a cable to it

IF you really want to do this it seems the solinoid wins by publc opinion. I would go for it.

As stated make safety a key concern and as a byproduct the reliability will also improve. don't just "rig" it up. Make sure nothing can bind or come loose and that no wires can ever short out (I believe this was mentioned before but just emphasizing this crutial point)

Best of luck, no reason it shouldn't work but keep us posted.

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Hey..see if the cruise control servo still works (not much to it as long as the diaphram is not ruptured or froze up)

Done it that way in the past although I will admit, the solinoid will be very easy to do. They work well.

Just giving another possible option. However I forgot how I got the servo to pull and release but it operates on vacuum. If you couldn't figure it out I would need to dig though some old notes to help. I think an addition part is needed to electrically switch vacuum on/off to the servo.

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i think i am just going to look for a solenoid that will suit my needs but it may not happen for a while

master5 wrote:

Hey..see if the cruise control servo still works (not much to it as long as the diaphram is not ruptured or froze up)
Done it that way in the past although I will admit, the solinoid will be very easy to do. They work well.
Just giving another possible option. However I forgot how I got the servo to pull and release but it operates on vacuum. If you couldn't figure it out I would need to dig though some old notes to help. I think an addition part is needed to electrically switch vacuum on/off to the servo.

I don't mean to be a killjoy on the vacuum servo... but, won't most (or all) vacuum be leaked down by the time you need to remote start?

I vote for the trunk popper. My 2 cents, anybody correct me if I am worng.

I don't remember. This was done at the first shop I ever worked at and I was just learning the industry. Perhaps I am confusing it with an aftermarket cruise control install, or maybe it had a canister that held the vaccum or built up during crank, just can't remember, too many years of inhaling resin and adhesives..lol.

Maybe it was an electric servo, I still can't remember, But agreed, the solinoid seems to be the easiest and economical way and should be safe if installed properly.

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I did this on my 87 cutlass. I ended up using a trunk pop soleniod and connected it to the cruise control servo. The cruise control was linked up to the carb, so when the solenoid pulled on the servo, it pulled on the throttle. And since I didnt connect it directly to the carb, I didnt worry about it being too close. It was right next to the power brake booster. I wired up a relay to the remote start's status output wire. So when the remote start was triggered, it pulsed the throttle for a second right befor cranking. But it still didnt work all the time I'd say it worked 95% of the time. When it was cold, like 30's or below it didn't work. But now since the car was flooded by Katrina it doesnt work at all. Oh well. But I wanna eventually restore that car again.

katrina sux !! sorry to hear about your flood damage. I am in south florida and wilma and several other bad hurricances did plenty of damage as well, but we didn;t have the flood you did.(no levies down here, we are at sea level, not below.

Anyhow, I knew there was a way to use the servo, just didn't remember how. Guess 95% is better then nothing and it seems to me like a safer way. But any good installer could do the trunk pull in a safe manner I would hope. A few friends down here drive older chevys, impalas and caprices are all tricked out. Because it is so hot here they will usually remote start without any mods once warmed up for most of the day. However, rarely will they remote start fresh in the AM.

Good luck with the resto.

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You are correct. Most of the time when its hot outside the remote start worked flawlessly. I didnt even put the soleniod on until more than a year later. As long as my car was running I could remote start up again up to 5-6 hours later. Any longer than that, or overnight, the gas pedal had to be pumped. And in cold weather it rarely remote started. But after I installed the soleniod, it would remote start 100% pf the time if the temp outside was at least 70 or higher. Cooler and cold weather is really the only time it had any problems. So to get the AC going, it works fine, but to get the heater going in cold weather.... hardly ever started.