Compustar CM3000, DEI 1100F, 02 Explorer

Hi Guys,

Please forgive the ignorance I am about to display.

I purchased a Compustar 2WSS-AS Alarm/Remote Starter (uses CM3000 brain) on Ebay and although I have read and re-read the manual, I still have a few questions about it and also the DEI 1100F Transponder.

I have a Ford 2002 Explorer with a PATS (passive security system).

Question #1 Regarding the CM3000.......I am still a little confused by the Connector #5 wires:

Pin1 GREEN / WHITE described as the "Negative OEM Re-Arm Output"
AND
Pin 2 GREEN/ Black described as the "Negative OEM Disarm Output"

Could you please tell me where to hook these two wires up? my vehicle wiring diagram is below (or maybe I don't need both of them connected?)

QUESTION #2: The DEI 1100F instructions seem almost useless to me......they speak about "selecting the installation mode of "Conventional-using Ground while Running" OR the "Data type connection"......I am not sure which of these to choose and they warn you that you can only program the 1100F one time!

Finally on the 1100F the wiring diagram has a 4 pin connector with the following wires: "Ground while Running", Ground, and +12 volts.
It then also has a 9 Pin connector that has the following wires: Ignition Input, ECM TX, ECM RX

They also mention in their cross reference that I will be using a type "B" Vehicle Specific Transponder connector type, and that has four pins labeled 1-Ground, 2-Ignition, 3-TX, 4-RX.......so where does this go and how is it connected.

Which of these do I need to use with my Ford 2002 Explorer and in what "mode".

Also, regarding interfacing the DEI 1100F to the CM3000, the CM3000 has a Connector #2 Pin2 called the (-) Status Out Wire which they say is the wire I want to connect to the Transponder (1100F), but WHERE?


Any help appreciated,

Thx,
Jon

Also, Here is the wiring diagram for my vehicle:

DIRECTWIRE? WIRING INFORMATION - FORD / EXPLORER / 2002 / Security

12volts yellow   +   ignition harness
Starter red   +   ignition harness
Ignition RED / lt. green   +   ignition harness
Power Lock pink / YELLOW   -   driver kick panel or CSM
Notes: The CSM (Central Security Module) is below the passenger side C pillar.

Power Unlock pink/lt. green   -   driver kick panel or CSM
Notes: The CSM (Central Security Module) is below the passenger side C pillar.

**The GEM in this vehicle shuts down after the doors have been locked for a
certain time period, to wake-up the system refer to directfax document #1094.

Lock Motor pink/black      driver kick panel or CSM
Notes: The CSM (Central Security Module) is below the passenger side C pillar.

Unlock Motor RED / orange      driver kick panel or CSM
Notes: The CSM (Central Security Module) is below the passenger side C pillar.

Disarm Defeat pink/orange      driver B pillar or CSM
Notes: The CSM (Central Security Module) is below the passenger side C pillar.

Parking Lights+ brown      headlight sw or driver kick
Parking Lights- N/A       
Hazards          
Turn Signal(L)          
Turn Signal(R)          
Door Trigger BLACK/ lt. blue   +   driver kick panel
Dome Supervision use door trigger       
Trunk/Hatch Pin common with doors       
Hood Pin          
Trunk/Hatch Release org/lt. grn or pur/yel   +   Central Security Module

Notes: The CSM (Central Security Module) is below the passenger side C pillar.

Power Sliding Door          
Factory Alarm Arm          
Factory Alarm Disarm GREEN/ purple   -   driver dr harness or CSM
Notes: The CSM (Central Security Module) is below the passenger side C pillar.

Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm       
Tachometer     ac   ignition coil/coil pack
Notes: For tach go to one of the ignition coils or coil pack and use the
wire that is NOT WHITE/ lt. blue.
Horn Trigger yellow/lt grn or yellow/lt blu -   steering column or CSM

Notes: The CSM (Central Security Module) is below the passenger side C pillar.

Memory Seat 1 BROWN / lt. green   +   driver seat mod under seat
Memory Seat 2 BLACK/ orange   +   driver seat mod under seat
Memory Seat 3     +     
Interface Module: Category:
Immobilizer Bypass Required:
Yes Type:
SecuriLock
Part #: 1100F
Alternate Part1 #: 556SW
Alternate Part2 #: 556UW
Alternate Part3 #: DesignTech 20402
Alternate Part4 #: DesignTech 29402
Notes:
Smart Starter Kill Relays: Not Available

1. The explorer's factory alarm must be disarmed before remote starting, you would connect the GREEN/ black oem disarm to the explorer's GREEN/ purple in the driver's kick panel. This wire is the wire the factory uses to disarm the alarm via the key in the door. To test this wire, put the key in the door and turn to unlock, this wire will go to ground while unlocking. You will not need the factory alarm re-arm wire, the ford system cannot be armed via a negative trigger.

2. OK, this step is alot less complicated than it looks. The 1100F works the same exact way as adding another key to the vehicle, but has a better vehicle interface than wrapping a wring around the key cylinder. This interface needs to be programmed in exactly the same manner as adding a third key, you need two preprogrammed keys to add a third. Follow the instructions step by step and you should have no problems, but this will be the final step...after all remote start connections and tachometer programming has been completed. Finish the installation minus the 1100F first. Leave a valid programmed key in the ignition in the off position and remote start the vehicle, verify that everything is fully operational, then move to the 1100F. Once you have everything installed follow the instructions provided in the 1100F manual, the TX and RX are transmit and receive connections that talk to the vehicle's data bus. This is the portion that makes this piece a better option than the key in a box type bypass, because it is a direct data connection as opposed to an inductive loop around the key cylinder. This connection will not be affected by temperature or movement after installing like is possible with the inductive loop.

Ignore the 'data type connection' of the 1100F you will be using the conventional type of turn on. Connect the ground when running input of the 1100F to the negative status output of the CM3000, this wire will turn the 1100F on when needed and leave it off when not needed.

When they list your vehicle as type B, they are referencing the connector in your truck. You would match your TX and RX wires with the diagram shown in the 1100F manual.

Hope this helps.

Thanks for clearing up all that "darkness" with just one post. It is VERY much appreciated.

If I could bug you one more time, I briefly looked inside the 1100F box at the provided connectors.

Are you saying that I will be plugging the 1100F "inline"....i.e. pulling apart a pre-existing Ford connector (female/male) and plugging each end into "mating" 1100F connectors?
Or am I actually butchering up some Ford wires and soldering them to the 1100F wire harnesses?

NOTE: I remember seeing several connectors that were that terminated in "wire ends". I am trying to remember if I saw any connectors in that box that terminated the other end with another connector.

Finally, will I have any problems with the Compustar interfering with my Explorer's speed rate door-lock system that engages the locks when the car hits 10-20 mph?

Thanks for all your help !

Jon

The connectors they show in the manual are pictures of the connector types available in the vehicle. You need to solder the TX and RX wires from the 1100F to the proper wires in the vehicle, as shown in the 1100F manual. You have connector type 3B, meaning pin 3 of the factory harness is where gray/red goes and pin 4 of the factory is where the GREEN/ red goes.

The Explorer's speed lock as well as all other systems are not affected by the after market system (at least if installed properly they will not be ;) ). With the DEI pieces I do, I turn off all of the 'convenience' features they offer...ignition controlled door locks, etc. to keep the vehicle operating as it did before I installed anything, except that it will now start from remote control.

Let us know how everything goes!

Thank you VERY much for all the help !!

Hoping to make this install a one-time process that ends in success !!

Thanks Again,

Jon

Hi Guys,

I have a Ford Explorer 2002 XLT that has Factory Keyless Entry and has the PATS alarm stuff.

I have seen several articles on the need to "wake up the GEM" as show in: https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1094.pdf

BUT, I have also seen several posts about needing to diode isolate EVERY door input to avoid false triggering as shown in: https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1076.pdf

Can somebody please tell me if either of these are necessary for my vehicle, or do I somehow have to do BOTH ?

Thx,
Jon

Hi,

You had responded to some earlier questions so hoping you could help with my latest:

Ford Explorer 2002 XLT that has Factory Keyless Entry and has the PATS alarm stuff.

I have seen several articles on the need to "wake up the GEM" as show in: https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1094.pdf

I have ALSO seen another GEM Wakeup with DIFFERENT wiring schemes: https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1094.pdf


FINALLY, I have also seen several posts about needing to diode isolate EVERY door input to avoid false triggering as shown in: https://www.directechs.com/techtips/pdfs/resources/security/directed_techtips/1076.pdf

Any idea which of these 3 articles is necessary for my vehicle?

Thx,
Jon

Here is the response from Twelvoltz:

For the diode isolation of the door....do not bother with the double diode thing...just use a relay to trigger the alarm, much easier. Wire it like this:

85 = Door trigger/Dome supervision
86 = Constant fused +12V
30 = Ground
87 = Out to door trigger of alarm

For the 'wake' issue....

There is another 'trick' that I use...but I really only do DEI product with an external relay pack. With this setup all I do is tie the factory alarm disarm trigger into the ignition relay's trigger and set the system to double unlock pulse. This energizes just the one ignition circuit, and for only a split second...but when the vehicle sees the ignition come on, it wakes up.

I appear to have 3 Dark GREEN/ Purple wires in the kick panel not sure which one is really the Factory alarm disarm wire


I also appear to have 2 BLACK/ Light Blue wires in the kick panel....not sure which one is the real Door Trigger wire.

Any thoughts?

Thx,
Jon

my thought would be to grab a meter and test them.......

-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979

I found the correct Factory Disarm by going to the CSM

I will test the other Door Trgger candidates to determine the corect one of those.

Was trying to find some of those probes that puncture the wire only slightly for my multimeter, but struck out at Radio Shack and Axeman

Thx,

Jon

Hi Guys,

Just wanted to alert some folks that my DEI 1100F bypass wiring diagram was incorrect for the PATS Connector 3B on my 2002 Ford Explorer.

They should have identified PIN2 as ground and PIN1 as Transmission, but instead they have it reversed.

Just a warning.

Thx,
Jon