1997 Ford Explorer factry alarm interface

can I interface an alarm with it to arm and disarm, like door locks or hood pin switch, is anything possible with the factory module or just leave it alone?

I don't understand what you mean. Are you asking if you can add an aftermarket alarm and have that arm and disarm the factory? If so, yes you can.

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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services

oh I meant hook up the aftermarket alarm to maybe the factory "arm" wire if it has one, I know it has a disarm lead, I already found the tan with green? striped factory hood pin wire at the kick panel, saves me from running my own, tips like that

Factory Alarm Arm	arms on lock
Notes: Arms on lock only with door open. It is necessary to send a signal to door trigger as well as lock to arm factory alarm

Ok, That vehicle uses a positve door trigger. Take the - doorlock output wire of the aftermarket alarm and connect that to 85 of a relay(but also remember to leave it connected to the doorlock circuit as well). Diode isolate. Connect 86 and 30 to 12v+ with a fuse (10a should suffice).

Connect 87 to the vehicles door trigger + wire from the pinswitch. (This is the same wire you will be connecting the alarms door trigger circuit to, usually violet from the alarm harness).

diagram on the way.

Should do the trick.  Good luck and keep us posted.

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This should work.

ford_arm_factory.jpg

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master5 wrote:

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This should work.

ford_arm_factory.jpg

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No, it won't. The BLACK/ blue wire is the domelight wire. You need to send a pulse to a true door trigger wire. The drivers door pin wire is yellow/black in the drivers kick panel. If that wire sees ground when the lock wire is triggered then the factory alarm will arm. On a Compustar alarm you just connect the rearm wire to the door trigger, and the lock wire to the lock wire and everything works. On a DEI unit I don't think that method works because of a timing issue.

i havent tried it yet but when I was playing around I also noticed that it will arm the factory alarm wih the door open and the "theft" light will illuminate when -12v is sent to the door lock wire, but doesnt when the door is closed and the aftermarket alarm is armed (pink and something)

JWorm] wrote:

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master5 wrote:

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This should work.

ford_arm_factory.jpg

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No, it won't. The BLACK/ blue wire is the domelight wire. You need to send a pulse to a true door trigger wire. The drivers door pin wire is yellow/black in the drivers kick panel. If that wire sees ground when the lock wire is triggered then the factory alarm will arm. On a Compustar alarm you just connect the rearm wire to the door trigger, and the lock wire to the lock wire and everything works. On a DEI unit I don't think that method works because of a timing issue.

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so the yellow/black to the compustar Orange wire"this is the re-arm wire. it provides you with a - pulse when armed, after remote start and then again one second after remote start shuts down". Then i just hook the arm/disarm of the compustar in teh normal fashion to the pink kick panel wires with no relays, and it should work right?

and the factory disarm wire, should I just hook it to the door unlock of teh compustar with a diode? or to the Compustar ORANGE / white "this is the disarm wire.It provides you with a - pulse when disarmed and before remote start"

Well I posted off Directechs from DEI, they are pretty reliable but not 100%. I created the diagram from the info given. I typically don't like to arm the factory alarm if installing an aftermarket (unless it auto arms with lock) so I have not tried this first hand.

I will notify DEI and see that a correction is made.

I will post any any updates.

Thanks

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umm I tried that and the interior lights came on when I armed it, anyone else have an idea , or would the relay thing work?

JWorm] wrote:

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master5 wrote:

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This should work.

ford_arm_factory.jpg

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No, it won't. The BLACK/ blue wire is the domelight wire. You need to send a pulse to a true door trigger wire. The drivers door pin wire is yellow/black in the drivers kick panel. If that wire sees ground when the lock wire is triggered then the factory alarm will arm. On a Compustar alarm you just connect the rearm wire to the door trigger, and the lock wire to the lock wire and everything works. On a DEI unit I don't think that method works because of a timing issue.

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master5 wrote:

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<T>
<TR align=middle height=18>
<TD width=135><A onclick=glossary20&yr=2384&product=Remote%20Start#"><FONT>Factory Alarm Arm</A></TD>
<TD width=135> arms on lock </TD>
<TD align=middle width=135>  </TD>
<TD width=130>  </TD></TR>
<TR height=18>
<TD colSpan=4>Notes: Arms on lock only with door open. It is necessary to send a signal to door trigger as well as lock to arm factory alarm</TD></TR></T></TABLE>

Ok, That vehicle uses a positve door trigger. Take the - doorlock output wire of the aftermarket alarm and connect that to 85 of a relay(but also remember to leave it connected to the doorlock circuit as well). Diode isolate. Connect 86 and 30 to 12v+ with a fuse (10a should suffice).

Connect 87 to the vehicles door trigger + wire from the pinswitch. (This is the same wire you will be connecting the alarms door trigger circuit to, usually violet from the alarm harness).

diagram on the way.

Should do the trick.  Good luck and keep us posted.

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"Connect 87 to the vehicles door trigger + wire from the pinswitch" what colours that? I know it has 3 wires from the back of the lock cyl and 2 that come off the latch

ok it wont work (either method, yellow with black stripe wire goes up in the door loom not down, oops), the stock alarm to be armed without a remote (unless you can figure the module out) the dome light has to be on and the door has to be locked within .5 to 1 seconds minimum AFTER the dome light is turned on, not at the same time. The way the aftermarket alarm works is it sends a signal from all outputs at once with no delay on arm, so if theres a way with a COmpustar or some electronic device that sends an output after roughly 1 second (all I do is set door locks to 2.5 seconds and add this device), any ideas where to get soemthing,modify a light flasher or something?????

I did a 97 explorer that drove me nuts! I tried the timing relays and all that crap but what worked the best--and I've used it on 2003 explorers too--is to get into the keyless entry pad.

If your vehicle has the numbered key pad on the drivers door you can press 7/8 and 9/0 at the same time and the doors lock and the factory alarm arms. What happens when you press those buttons is that the wires that go to them are momentarily grounded. In the driver's kick panel you will find those wires, one is solid yellow, the other is solid red. I don't rememeber on the 97, but on the 03's I pried out the keypad and used a DVM to make sure I had located the correct wires--they're pretty small and they'll be close together. Take your lock wire from the aftermarket alarm (assuming it has a momentary negative pulse)and split it into 2 leads. Hook those leads up to the yellow and red wires. Be sure to use a diode in each lead, stripe pointing to the aftermarket alarm lock wire, so that you don't permenantly connect the 7/8 and 9/0 buttons together.

Fast, easy, and works reliably.

haha thats brilliant, never thought of that, I was going to wrap up the dash and kick panel if I never got any responses, I'll give it a go!