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Remote Start, 2001 Chevy Tahoe

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=84705
Printed Date: March 28, 2024 at 9:35 PM


Topic: Remote Start, 2001 Chevy Tahoe

Posted By: fortisi876
Subject: Remote Start, 2001 Chevy Tahoe
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 8:34 PM

Hello!

I just bought a used Tahoe, I plan on installing a remote starter in the next week or two. Can someone point me in the right direction for the color codes for this vehicle?

Also, its been a few yrs since I installed one, my last one was a CS RS900VII that I liked a lot mostly due to its range. However, Ive been running a few searches here and havent seen anyone really recommend them so if you dont mind sharing whats the lastest best bang for your dollar these days???

Im even considering an add-on that lets me use the oem remotes since the range isnt too bad for a factory remote. Are add-on type RS's any easier to install?

TIA!




Replies:

Posted By: Mike M2
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 8:45 PM

Add on's are easy, they use the motor wires from the locks to activate. On your truck all three wires needed are in the fuse box amking it real easy. You'll need a bypass for the Passlock2. Get the tach from the back of the cluster, white wire., much easier than going to the ECM...

12volts red  +  ignition harness
Starter yellow  +  ignition harness
Second Starter N/A    
Ignition pink  +  ignition harness
Second Ignition white  +  ignition harness
Notes: To avoid the check engine light from coming on and possible damage to the automatic transmission, the second ignition in this vehicle MUST be powered when adding a remote start system.
Third Ignition N/A    
Accessory orange  +  ignition harness
Second Accessory brown  +  ignition harness
Keysense lt. green  -  ignition harness
Power Lock lt. blue  +  pin A4, brown plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.
Power Unlock white  +  pin A3, brown plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.
Lock Motor gray  5wi driver kick, door harness
Unlock Motor tan  5wi driver kick, door harness
Parking Lights+ brown  +  pin B6, lt. blue plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.
Parking Lights- white  -  pin A5, lt. blue plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.
Hazards same as turn signals    
Turn Signal(L) lt. blue  +  steering column
Turn Signal(R) dk. blue  +  steering column
Reverse Light lt. green  +  inside rear view mirror
Door Trigger   -  BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.

Use tan for the driver door located in pin B4 of the purple plug, and the passenger doors are a blue/white in pin B11 of the lt. blue plug. Use both wires and diode isolate each.
Dome Supervision use door trigger    
Trunk/Hatch Pin pink/black  -  pin B10, lt. blue plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.
Hood Pin N/A    
Trunk/Hatch Release N/A    
Power Sliding Door N/A    
Factory Alarm Arm arms on lock    
Factory Alarm Disarm lt. green  -  pin B3, purple plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.
Disarm No Unlock see factory alarm disarm    
Tachometer white  ac  ECM
Notes: The ECM (Engine Control Module) is located near the battery, down low, between the fender and the fan under the black plastic cover. On the 4.3L, the tach wire is at pin 20 in the connector labeled red. On the 4.8L, 5.3L, and 6.0L, the tach wire is located at pin 10 in the red connector
Wait to start dk. blue  -  instrument cluster
Brake Wire white  +  brake pedal switch
Parking Brake GREEN / WHITE  -  parking brake switch
Horn Trigger black  -  pin A9, brown plug at BCM
Notes: The BCM (Body Control Module) is located behind the driver side of the dash. The plugs face towards the rear of the vehicle.
Memory Seat 1 white  +  memory mod under dr seat
Memory Seat 2 purple  +  memory mod under dr seat
Memory Seat 3 N/A  +  
posted_image
Interface Module:Category:
Immobilizer Bypass
Required:
Yes
Type:
Passlock II
Part #: 556LW



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Mike M2
Tech Manager
CS Dealer Services




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: October 26, 2006 at 10:20 PM

Mike: A big thnx for getting this info to me faaassttt!

I have a question about the Paslock, Im unfamiliar with this unit......is there a chip in my ignition key (black handle)like my Ford Taurus has?

I ask only cuz my spare key is all metal, meaning no black plastic on the handle and it runs without any issues, is it possible its been disabled already?

Ive learned the car had an alarm system at some time in its life so I suppose its possible.





Posted By: Twelvoltz
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 6:33 AM
Your truck has GM's PasslockII system. They moved the 'chip' from the key into the ignition cylinder, allowing you to get a $2.00 key cut and still preventing hot-wiring of the vehicle. If the vehicle had an alarm only, then the passlock would not have been bypassed as bypassing the passlock is only necessary for remote starting.

You will need to bypass the passlock system for remote starting. I recommend a bypass like the one listed in the wiring chart. The one in the chart is the 556L from DEI, this unit relearns the required resistance code every time the key is used to start the vehicle.   The downside to the 556L is that you must cut the factory wire in the truck. Bypasskit.com offers a unit that will provide the correct information to the vehicle without requiring you to cut any of the factory wiring. Here is a link to their device.

Hope this helps.




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 2:45 PM

Im installing a UltraStart 1250, am I going to need to hook up a 451M?

Im asking only cuz I found it along with the 555L under my dash. Apparantly, the dope I bought the car from snatched his alarm system but left these other two units in place.

(I call him a dope only cuz between the bare wires and the lack of reattaching 2 other wires that needed attaching after ripping the alarm system out caused my starter to fry a few weeks ago. posted_image)





Posted By: CruisinS&S
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 3:03 PM
what year?

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Cruisin Security And Sounds




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 3:04 PM
sorry........2001




Posted By: CruisinS&S
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 3:07 PM
yes you should leave the 451m in there. The ultrastart does not have enough amperage to lock/unlock does on its own.

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Cruisin Security And Sounds




Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 3:17 PM
Actually the ultra start only had negative outputs for door locks and the tahoe has positive trigger door locks ie requiring the 451 to convert polarity....

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Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 4:54 PM

Thnx guys!

Im actually in the middle of the install as I type this and ran into some more unknown territory.

On the DEI 555L unit, the directions give an explanation of where each wire goes (6 of 8) except for two (blk/wh and violet) that aren't needed for my application.

However, in the wiring diagram they only show three hooked up:

blk/yell = r code output to BCM------yell = r code ignition switch side------black = ground reference wire

Does anyone know off the top of their head if the other three wires need to be connected?

TIA!





Posted By: jeepers79
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 5:34 PM

Hey..

I HAVE to ask..  where did you buy your Tahoe, what colr is it?  I sold my old 2001 ... and i pulled the alarm but left that module in there..  LOL how funny would that be if it was mine... but I didnt leave any bare wires..tha tI know of! :)



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2003 Chevy Tahoe




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 7:22 PM
jeepers79 wrote:

I HAVE to ask..  where did you buy your Tahoe, what colr is it?  I sold my old 2001 ... and i pulled the alarm but left that module in there..  LOL how funny would that be if it was mine... but I didnt leave any bare wires..tha tI know of! :)
  In NNJ.........I think the color is pewter. posted_image 




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 21, 2006 at 9:27 PM

Assuming the followers of this forum believe in the old adage, the only dumb questions are the ones not asked...........I have a few questions hoping someone can help me out on, hoping to button this up in the a.m.! posted_image

Anyone know if the tach wire ('01 Tahoe) is accessible from under the dash w/out having to take the dash apart ?

Also on the UltraStart 1250:

- there is an orange wire in the 14 pin connector that  says, "(-) while running / negative while locked *Starter Program Mode".........what does this hook up to?

- there is a WHITE/ blue wire in the 14 pin connector that  says, "(-) Horn honk output *User Program Mode"..........the negative side of the horn .....right? posted_image

Thnx guys!





Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: November 22, 2006 at 7:41 AM
The orange wire is a negative out when running, it is a programable output. You should be hooking it to the 555l blue/black wire. The horn honk output ie WHITE/ blue goes to the black wire in the ignition harness. Take off your dash trim remove the 4 7mm screws holding the gagauge cluster in tach is there its white very easy to do. Hope this helped ya...

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Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 22, 2006 at 1:00 PM

Jeremy you've been very helpful......thank you!

Hoping that I still have your attention, posted_image......on the 451M do you know if all the wires coming out of it need to be attached?

Here's what I have coming out of the 451M:

purple (fused), PURPLE / blk (fused), blue, green = connected

brn/blk, white = cut down not connected

grn, red, blue (22ga) on a 3 pin connector = not connected and have no clue where it needs to go???

Ive pretty much completed everything else with the help of you good ppl! posted_image





Posted By: CutDog504
Date Posted: November 22, 2006 at 2:11 PM
The 3 pin connector will connect to the doorlock output on the alarm. Not sure if it will plug into your alarm though. You can cut the plug off and splice it into your alarms doorlock output wires. If your alarm doesnt have a red on the lock output wires, just connect the red to a 12v constant fused.




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 22, 2006 at 8:06 PM

This will probably be my last install, Im so frustrated I cant even tell ya.!!!

Nothing works at the moment. I connected all six wires on the power connector and everything labeled MUST BE CONNECTED from the 14 pin connector (except for the hood pin wire). The only wires I have not connected are the tach, arm/disarm, door lock/unlock & trunk release wires and any wires associated with a manual trans or diesel.

Jumper select is set on position 3 (second ignition).

PROBLEM #1: Now assuming that Ive hooked up all the necessary wires I decided to move onto tachless learning. Mind you I tried tach learning when I had the wire attached to the white wire coming out of the gauge cluster but it didnt seem to wanna learn, so I disconnected it to try tachless learning and its STILL not learning. If that wasnt enough, during start up the horn honks twice as Im cranking her over. The directions state after 30 secs the LED on the antenna will turn on, it doesnt.

Problem #2: The car gives me 3 start attempts in a row but never starts.

Problem #3: When I try to reset the system to start fresh, Ive noticed it does everything correctly until I turn the car off. As soon as I turn the key to off it honks one time.

Any help would be appreciated!





Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 23, 2006 at 9:10 PM
Anyone? posted_image




Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: November 24, 2006 at 7:48 AM

I am not sure as the standard 1250 was before my time but tachless won't be an option. It will say 1250TL as the model and even then tachless still ain't to hot with these.  Did yo meter the white wir ein the gauge cluster before trying it? if you can't grab it there it is in the big harness above drivers side wheel well going to ecm, it will be white. I suggest you check it with a meter before hooking it up. Also make sure you do a system reset ie turn ignition forward and hold small button on antenna for 5 seconds your lights will flash 5 times and you horn will honk to let you know when its reset. There are a lot of 1250's on the internet the have been refurburbished hopefully you have a good one......



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Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 24, 2006 at 6:54 PM

Yea Im beginning to think I might have a bad unit just cuz thats the kind of luck I have.  In my last RS install 2-3 yrs ago I had to get an exchange on the brain cuz it wasnt functioning properly. I made the mistake of buying this thing from a private seller so I might of gotten beat for $40.

I ripped out the install last night including the 555L and 451M that was already in there. Im gonna have another go at it from scratch tomorrow.

Is there anyway to test the 555L and 451M with a meter? Im starting to wonder if one of those units were faulty.

Im think about dumping the 451 and just using two relays. I dont have directions/diagrams for the 451 so I cant even check to see if it was wired correctly from the former installer.

I didnt test the white wire coming off the gauge cluster cuz everyone seemed positive its the white wire. I'll test it tomorrow tho before I reconnect to it....as long as someone tells me how to test it! LOL! Am I just looking for 12v from the white wire when I turn the key to on or do I need to start the car?

Does the Tahoe require any other mandatory connections that arent listed in the list on pge 1? ie. 3rd ignition wire or 2nd acc wire? I ask only cuz I found it odd how the thing would crank right over but seemed to cut out as soon as the engine fired up. Nor did the brain leave any error codes if I checked correctly anyway. So I dont know maybe the 555L wasnt working properly cutting the motor out once started???

Any further advice/troubleshooting tips would be great gentlemen!





Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 24, 2006 at 6:57 PM

I cant let this thing BEAT ME!!!! Haha!

BTW: I do have the 1250TL fwiw. The only reason I gave tachless learning a try is cuz the crimestopper RS I installed in my truck a few yrs ago worked without any issues that way.





Posted By: caraujo11
Date Posted: November 24, 2006 at 7:40 PM
where in nj are you?  I run a shop in sussex. give me a call. 973-875-2754 . 




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 24, 2006 at 11:36 PM

Im in Wayne........Alright cool! I'll probably take you up on that offer if things dont go right.





Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: November 25, 2006 at 8:44 AM

the ultra will honk when a system reset is done and the horn out put wire is hooked up, thats normal. Does the truck crank each time it tries to start? How is the 555lw hooked up are you using the orange wire from remote start to trigger it? does the 555lw have power and a good body ground? And yes the white in the gauge cluster has always worked for tach. The tachless on the ultras leaves something to be desired. 



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Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 25, 2006 at 5:17 PM

the ultra will honk when a system reset is done and the horn out put wire is hooked up, thats normal. OK THNX!

Does the truck crank each time it tries to start?  YES, it sounds like it's started BRIEFLY until it turns off, then tries again. I know the 3 attempts part is normal I just dont know why it keeps turning off.

How is the 555lw hooked up are you using the orange wire from remote start to trigger it? I actually do NOT have the 555LW, I have the older version, I guess, its just a 555L. This is how its connected >  blk/yell = yellow (r-code bcm side), yell = yellow  **color on the left side = is for the 555L, the right side is the car color.**

does the 555lw have power and a good body ground?  YES

And yes the white in the gauge cluster has always worked for tach. The tachless on the ultras leaves something to be desired. OK, I'll take your advice and reattach the tach wire.

Im wondering if I shouldnt be using the RED / white wire as one of the constant 12V wires?





Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: November 26, 2006 at 8:48 AM
555l and 555lw are the same thing one just denotes it comes in a white box and the other in a blister pack.  Well with the exact way you describe I think your bypass is not functioning causing your no start. I see your problem the black doesn't go to ground it is grounded on the orange black wire running in the passlock harness it will be the same gauge as the the yellow wire that is snipped. strip off someinsulation and wrap the the black wire from the 555 around it then start the car with the key and let it run to program the bypass.....I haven't used any 555l for awhile forgot about the ground reference wireposted_image.

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Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 26, 2006 at 9:55 AM

Jeremy: thnx for being patient with me!

Im not sure what happened to my post above I could swear that I posted ALL of the wire connections, I might of hit something before hitting the reply button. Anyway I was mistaken and just went out to dbl check the black wire from the 555L IS connected to the blk/orange wire in the passlock system.

Quick question: Before I go nuts wiring the entire thing up again and find out its a brain issue, can I hook up x amount of wires real quick to check if this thing works w/out all the other bells & whistle options?

Also have you guys ever heard of a 555L going bad or coming bad from the manufacturer? Before knowing I had one wired up in my truck already I had ordered one online so if you think its possible I might try hooking up the new one.

Thnx for you patience guys!





Posted By: Firstnbass
Date Posted: November 26, 2006 at 10:03 AM
sorry if im asking the same questions as sombody else, i skipped to the last page.

does the truck start with the key?

have you inserted the key in the ignition and attempted to start it with the RS with the 555l unpluged?

ill be on most of the day here.

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*ALwaYs KnoW YoUr SaLEsmAN!!*




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 26, 2006 at 10:39 AM
Going by memory, yes I did try with the key but it did not crank at all. I had to plug everything in for it to start with the key.




Posted By: Firstnbass
Date Posted: November 26, 2006 at 10:42 AM
where are you with this? my AIM name is Firstnbass get me there if you need help still

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*ALwaYs KnoW YoUr SaLEsmAN!!*




Posted By: fortisi876
Date Posted: November 26, 2006 at 3:28 PM

First off, Id like to thank EVERY person who offered their guidance/advice/knowledge to me!

Second, Im DONE! posted_image 

It's amazing how we learn the hard way at times. Im not sure what you experienced folk do when you get a job that has 'some' wiring done already but I wish I had ripped everything out from the start rather than trying to save time and hoping it's wired right for MY application........because I dont think it was.

Problems I found: The pink/white wire (555L) was attached to the ignition instead of the plain ole lil pink wire. The 451M was either broken or not wired right. Either way, I wired up two relays as pictured on this forum for reversing polarity and it works w/out any issues.

The install from scratch this time took me less than 3 hrs, (however, the jumpers were still attached to the appropriate wires saving me some time.) I reviewed and reviewed then reviewed once more over all the instructions and had a better understanding of what needed to be done to get this thing working properly. The other night my head was fried trying to make sense of the prewired stuff and what I needed to do, its very much possible that I mixed up a wire. Lesson learned, leave it alone when not thinking clearly! And for me, I will gut any birds nest I find under the dash in future installs.

THNX AGAIN EVERYONE!






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