Print Page | Close Window

Best hood pin switch?

Printed From: the12volt.com
Forum Name: Car Security and Convenience
Forum Discription: Car Alarms, Keyless Entries, Remote Starters, Immobilizer Bypasses, Sensors, Door Locks, Window Modules, Heated Mirrors, Heated Seats, etc.
URL: https://www.the12volt.com/installbay/forum_posts.asp?tid=84729
Printed Date: May 14, 2024 at 8:08 PM


Topic: Best hood pin switch?

Posted By: Lee280zx
Subject: Best hood pin switch?
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 9:33 AM

I just had a Viper 5900 alarm installed (two weeks ago) in my 2000 Toyota Sienna XLE. The hood pin switch installed with the alarm is already loose and looks kind of cheap to me.

What is the best hood pin switch?

Is there an OEM hood switch from another vehicle that would be better (I see some used ones on eBay that have rubber grommets and look more substantial)?

Thanks for any info!



Replies:

Posted By: kgerry
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 9:37 AM
Harrison makes nice Euro style switches with a boot... but i've used thousands of the standard pin switches that come with starters with no issues at all.... i'd say you got a sloppy install, not a poor quality pin switch.....

-------------
Kevin Gerry
Certified Electronics Technician
MECP First Class Installer

Owner/Installer
Classic Car Audio
since 1979




Posted By: KPierson
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 10:27 AM

I've installed quite a few mercury tilt switches, but they only work if you generally park on flat ground.

We got to the point where we wouldn't even install the DEI hoodpins because even if installed correctly they rust real bad and only last about a year in Ohio's climate.



-------------
Kevin Pierson




Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: October 27, 2006 at 10:41 AM
Hood pins are a issue they rust up very quick in my area also, we are experimenting with booted ones this year. I haven't had one loosen yey, maybe they didn't tigthen it all the way..

-------------




Posted By: CutDog504
Date Posted: October 29, 2006 at 1:15 AM
I used to have problems with them rusting. When you install it, cover it with a good bit of dielectric grease or some vaseline. Get it all over the pin where it slides, and all the metal contact parts. Also cover where your wire is connected to it. Try this, it helps a LOT. You will have to regrease it about every 6 months to a year.




Posted By: xtremej
Date Posted: October 30, 2006 at 7:35 AM
CutDog have you ever tried battery terminal coating, I was thinking about trying that experiment also?

-------------




Posted By: CutDog504
Date Posted: November 01, 2006 at 10:22 AM
I always just use dielectric grease on my battery terminals also, never used a "battery terminal coating". Maybe that coating is just dielectric grease. I used some type of battry terminal spray in an aerosol can, and it didnt do crap. They sell "spark plug boot lube" which is just dielectric grease, "bulb grease" which is just dielectric grease also. I've also used vaseline on the battery terminals before and it did the same thing as the dielectric grease, worked just as good. I also read in "TRUCKIN" magazine that a lot of truck enthusiasts use vaseline on thier battery terminals.




Posted By: Lee280zx
Date Posted: November 01, 2006 at 12:20 PM
Now hold on here...

You put dielectric grease on your battery terminals? Dielectric means it does not conduct electricity. Wouldn't that be the last thing you'd want to use in these applications?




Posted By: CutDog504
Date Posted: November 01, 2006 at 1:13 PM
Well I've never had any problems with it.... And why to they sell it to put on your spark plug boots and your light bulb bases if it doesnt conduct electricity? Just ask any mechanic what dielectric grease is used for. Or ask anybody at your local parts store.




Posted By: Lee280zx
Date Posted: November 12, 2006 at 1:33 PM
CutDog...

I don't know. I just want to know for certain why dielectric grease is used. Because dielectric is defined as:

"A nonconductor of electricity, especially a substance with electrical conductivity of less than a millionth (10-6) of a siemens."




Posted By: conair
Date Posted: December 01, 2006 at 8:00 PM
The manufacturers are referring to the grease's ability to prevent dielectric corrosion, especially of dissimilar metals. The grease is an insulator, but it is forced out of the way when a solid connection is made. Air is a good dielectric too, but like the grease, it is also forced out of the way.




Posted By: Fastlearner
Date Posted: December 02, 2006 at 5:03 AM
"I used to have problems with them rusting. When you install it, cover it with a good bit of dielectric grease or some vaseline. Get it all over the pin where it slides, and all the metal contact parts. Also cover where your wire is connected to it. Try this, it helps a LOT. You will have to regrease it about every 6 months to a year."

I read this and thought that this is a pretty neat idea. Let the customer know that in order for thier alarm to work 100% to come back every 6 months. Then while you have the car in the shop try to sell them speakers or radios. Sort of like jiffy lube style. I might have to try that one out some time. thanks.





Posted By: splaudio
Date Posted: December 02, 2006 at 10:10 AM
most all alarms come with those cheap plastic with a metal end pin switch, file them in a strong metal container (trash can). i install the brass and chrome ones from partsexpress.com and havent had one problem...




Posted By: ill-logix
Date Posted: December 02, 2006 at 9:03 PM
Has any one tried an intrusion switch used on doors and windows for home security?  Mount the magnet to the hood and the reed to the chassis.  They are sealed so corrosion wouldnt be an issue.




Posted By: xalky
Date Posted: December 03, 2006 at 7:42 AM

Dielectric grease is an insulator and terminal protector.  It insulates the terminal from reacting with the outside environment. It's used alot by telephone, and cable companies on there outside lines. I use it when working on my outside cable lines, I smear the stuff all over the screw in termonals so that they can maintain a good ground. Have you ever watched a snowy cable picture, if you have there's a good chance that its corrosion between the threads on the screw in connectors.

You want metal to metal contact on yourconnections, but to maintain that connection, gob it with dielectric grease, it repels water and it's pretty much insoluble. It's also used under the hood and outside plugs on most cars, they actually use it where the terminals contact so that corrosion won't deteriorate the conection over time. Great stuff.





Posted By: Paketa1
Date Posted: December 03, 2006 at 12:47 PM
Every one of them i put in i spray with white grease it gives me no problems at all and also the screws for the siren.




Posted By: conair
Date Posted: December 03, 2006 at 10:24 PM
I just used one of those intrusion switches on the back seat of a car so that when it was folded down, the lighting in the sub box would turn on. I didn't want any kind of switch to be visible, so I chose the magnetic reed switch, and hid it behind the fabric. I thought that there might be problems with vibration or stray magnetic fields from the sub, but that is not the case, as long as it is not too close to the subs. The only thing I would have to say might cause issues with using it for the hood, is that the magnet can be moved several inches from the switch before the circuit is closed; playing around with placement could solve this though.





Print Page | Close Window